HJ47 welcome here?

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Those welds look great. I'd be willing to bet that under some primer I couldn't find it (you'll always be able to find your work).

I'm so jealous, I have to spend nearly two months out of town (St. Louis--not much fun for this mountain boy) so I can't even get much work done inspecting mine getting ready to tear into it.

Any particular reason you're getting shackles from down under? Does nobody closer to home carry them, or are you going for something specific? I know I'll be replacing every bit of the suspension, so it's something I've got to start looking into.

Dan
 
I appreciate the compliments on my welds, though only the third one of those I am actually pleased with at this point. I feel like I can do a good job now, which sure beats the endless frustration I have been dealing with so far in the learning curve, and that confidence is really the most important thing.

After looking at various shackle designs out there, and having gone through the torment of pulling/chopping/wrestling rusted shackles and springs off of a 60 series last winter, i decided I wanted shackles that were:

-greasable
-anti-inversion

Loooking at the greasable shackles out there, from CCOT, man-a-free, 4+, and so forth, I considered and compared their relative design merits as best I could. I didn't like designs where the grease zerks were sitting out proud of the shackle pin, as it seemed to give poor protection. I found one type of greasable shackle in which the zerk was partially shrouded by the pin end, and was planning on buying these when...

... one day I came across a seller on Ebay Australia who was making shackles for sale, and he had really figured out a good design. His user name tells you a lot about his attitude: sprungart

Here's a link:

eBay Seller: sprungart: Car Parts, Accessories, Landcruiser 60 Series Anti Inversion Shackles 4WD items on eBay Australia

The price was great, even with sea mail shipping, and the money back guarantee gave me some confidence too. It obvious - the guy is into what he makes. 100% positive feedback (ravingly positive), was the clincher.

The 60 and 75 series shackles work on my 47 series frame. In fact the full floater axle on the 47 is the same as the 60 series, except for length. For your 45 series rig, you would probably need a different shackle - if you ask the fellow, he'll probably have them or would make them for you. He also does extended shackles too.

i got my greasable poly shackle bushes from CCOT.

:cheers:
 
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Some pictures of the rear axle after wire-wheeling it to death. Nasty job trying to dodge the little wire missiles that come off and embed in my clothes and flesh.

The axle has had some welding done at the locations where the u-bolts wrap the upper side of the tube. I suspect that the rubber bump stops, which normally attach there, had rusted badly and eroded part of the axle housing, so the P.O. got it skimmed with some weld. Not a super clean job, but it will have to do. I could lay some more weld down and clean it off, but considering the new bumpers will be mounted on top, it seems unneccessary.

The third pic shows the freshly paint-stripped hard fuel line installed (temporarily perhaps). I'll be picking up some Viton tubing soon to make the remaining sections of flexible fuel line.
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I jacked the front of the frame up and put it on blocks so i could pulled the front axle and springs. Removal was a breeze, and I was able to strip the drum hubs off without referring to the manual at all, which felt empowering. Once you've done it once or twice, it is pretty easy to remember.
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A couple of pics showing the u-bolt mounting plates freshly sandblasted, and then primered, and the front axle after wire-wheeling and a bit of blasting. Unfortunately the only sand on hand had a lot of crap in it which kept plugging the blaster valve and nozzle, so I abandoned the blasting until tomorrow, when I can pick up some fresh clean sand.
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Another couple showing the next layer applied to the u-bolt plates: Hi-Build primer surfacer.

Then I started work on modifying a mudshield that was mounted on the left side of the chassis in the engine bay. With the LHD steering mount now in place, I had to chop out a section and then bend a flange up on the edge...
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Today i picked up two bags of blast media after work and put in a couple of hours on the 47. Much better results than yesterday thanks to the clean media. I managed to blast all of the front axle and front disc brake components (pulled off of a 60 series).

I discovered that the fill plug on the diff was absloutely frozen in place (I wonder if this is why there was no oil in there whatsoever...uh, yup. That would be the explanation.

I tried the impact gun, but it rounded off the corners on the nut, so tomorrow i'll have to get serious with it.

I got a few coats of etching primer and primer surfacer on before packing it in, as well as several coats of black enamel on the u-bolt mounting plates.

New brake stuff arrived today. I got a set of vented Brembo rotors for the front, along with remanufactured 4Runner calipers and ceramic pads. I don't want to cut any corners when it comes to the brakes.

I'll pick up some brake caliper paint tomorrow and paint the new units. I'm going with 4Runner calipers instead of Landcruiser because these have 2 large pistons instead of the Cruiser's one large/one small approach, AND the pads are bigger as well so the braking will be much improved over stock I think - this an more, i learned here on 'Mud, so thanks everyone!. And, in the long run, discs are much cheaper and easier to maintain, and perform better in wet conditions, which make them an excellent choice out here in the Pacific Northwest rainforest.
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Three more. It's so nice to be done with that bit of work. I'm looking forward to getting black enamel on the parts tomorrow, and moving the show closer to reassembly.

I left the rear seals in the hubs to keep the paint out, and will pry the seals off tomorrow, hopefully, after the caliper paint has been applied.
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Henry



Swap your gearbox mounting brackets .
They are handed left and right and are stamped as such .
The straight vertical edge is towards the rear .


Haven't been here for a while but I must say your making pretty good progress .


EDIT How did you manage to fit the bolts in the brackets to frame ?
 
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Hi Grumpy,

I remember those brackets being stamped right and left from when I painted them. If I've put them in backwards, well, there we go :doh:

I'll take a look today and see what's what. Thanks for noticing - I need all the help I can get.
 
Nothing too exciting to add - I stripped the steering knuckles, blasted the parts with crushed glass and painted the bits with caliper paint. I also finished blasting the front axle and now have it in primer-surfacer.
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Henry



Swap your gearbox mounting brackets .
They are handed left and right and are stamped as such .
The straight vertical edge is towards the rear .


Haven't been here for a while but I must say your making pretty good progress .


EDIT How did you manage to fit the bolts in the brackets to frame ?
I'm not sure which bolts and which brackets you are referring to - if you mean the tranny mount brackets, then the frame has holes in place with nuts welded in behind.
 
Henry



Swap your gearbox mounting brackets .
They are handed left and right and are stamped as such .
The straight vertical edge is towards the rear .


Haven't been here for a while but I must say your making pretty good progress .


EDIT How did you manage to fit the bolts in the brackets to frame ?
Well, it seems like the (:doh: ) was a little premature: I checked the mounting brackets and they are on correctly, with the stamping on the right hand side one visible: "R".

I guess earlier 45's had a different arrangement(?)
 
Build it and they will come.....................































Not sure who they are but good build...

Rob
Thanks - I'm not sure who 'they' are either, but I welcome their arrival. Maybe they can help me figure out how to rebuild this thing.

I've learned a lot from others here on MuD, and this is my first build and to be honest I really have no idea what I'm doing half the time and do make a lot of mistakes. Nothing that a bit more time or a few more $$ won't fix. It's feeling less overwhelming some days anyhow.
 
Muds the best, saw your donour vehicle and it was very clean. The guys at south island have good doors and hatches to sell.

Good luck.
 
Muds the best, saw your donour vehicle and it was very clean. The guys at south island have good doors and hatches to sell.

Good luck.
Yeah Rob, they've been very helpful at South Island Imports ( a local wrecking yard specializing in Toyota, for the rest of the folks out there) - I've been back twice to pull parts off the engine bay electrical harness, and they haven't charged me a dime. Too bad there aren't any 47's around here being parted out.
 
No pictures today, I'm feeling reserved.

Today i finished painting the front axle, and popped the bearing seats out, then pulled the inner axle seals. It's pretty much ready for rebuild.

The rear axle is ready for finish paint. I rebuilt the starter simply by pulling the 12 volt armature out of my existing grubby starter casing, and fitting it into a nicer looking casing from a 24.v HJ60. Removed the 24v decal, so now it should work as a 12v. starter right? :idea:

Most days I take a look at the LHD bulkhead, with the wiring all apart and laying in it, and scratch my head about how to make it all work - in terms of the dash layout and what kinds of controls and instruments I want in place. One of the features that I wished the 47 had is intermittent wipers. There is a 40 series switch available from Toyota for this, but last time I checked it was $340 or something ridiculous like that, and had to come from Japan. I could also find some other dash-mounted wiper switch, or find something from an automotive electrical catalog. I decided against those options though, and today decided to mount a 60 series column. I checked it out carefully, compared 40 series to 60 series side-by-side, and examined the way the 60 column was put together, it didn't look too hard to modify to fit into place in my 47.

To mount the 60 series column, three things need to happen:

-the column needs to be shortened to bring the mounting flanges on the column into place to attach to the 40 dash.
-the dash mounting holes need to be moved outboard-the dash can be modded in a couple of ways to accomodate that need.
-either the firewall needs to have a section of 60 series firewall welded into place, so that the base of the 60 column can mount, OR the bottom of the 60 column needs to be chopped out and replaced with a section of the 40 series column (that way there is no need to modify the bulkhead and go and chop a piece out of a 60 truck). For mounting the upper part of the column to the dash, I might look at cutting a section from a 60 dash into that position instead of simply moving bolt holes.
Okay, 4 things: the 60 steering spindle needs to be shortened and have the terminal of the 40 series spindle welded to it.

With this mod, I will gain the intermittent wiper function, conveniently mounted at fingertip range, which is a little safer than taking one hand off the wheel. Also, the 60 series column is a colapsible design (which also showed up in some 40 series vehicles after 1980), which again is a safety improvement. further, the 60 column tilts, which might be nice sometimes, as I gain a huge beer gut for example. It also de-clutters the dash somewhat, removing not only the wiper switch, but the hazard switch button as well from the dash onto the column. Finally, the steering wheel is the same as what came on my 47, so it will look fairly stock for the most part.

I want to have a simple and clean dash, and by moving some of the controls to the column, I can put in such things as a tach, a pyro, and an hours meter and still keep it pretty clean - I hope.

The 60 series column has a different ignition switch, in that the 'glow' position is forward of the 'off' position instrad of behind it as on the 47 ignition. This means that with my right hand I can turn the ignition to 'glow' and then push a momentary switch, mounted on the dash at the left side of the instrument cluster, with my left hand.

I'm not sure how the dash pads will work with this column yet. Oh yeah, I need dashpads with this new firewall. Anybody got any decent ones?

Anyway, I steamed right on ahead after realizing that this was a sound plan, and disassembled the 60 column. That took 10 minutes. Then I drilled out 4 spot welds on the lower section of the column, and separated the sections. Now I can adjust it for length, or weld on the section of 40 column in place of the 60 one. The 60 column seems better designed in a number of ways though, and would be nice to keep as much of it as possible - besdies it simplifies the lower bushing interface. I'll bring my calipers tomorrow and measure the 40 and 60 column diameters to see how they might be married and go from there.

I finished off today by pushing some bushing into the spring eyes. Hopefully the shackles will arrive soon.

Next: I need to repair the rear axle spring seats, as their mounting holes are distorted badly. I'll cut sections off of a 60 axle's perches to splice in sections to the other axle. I'll take pictures.
 
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