HJ47 welcome here? (2 Viewers)

[Henry James the 47th]

Found out today...and too bad, that post-'85 2H engines are not the same as pre-'85 engines, and many parts, like the cooler cover, do not interchange. Part need to come from either Oz or Nippon for pretty much anything on the engine, save for the glow plugs and a few odds and ends.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

pictures at last!!

I was able to borrow a digital camera today and catch up on a few pics for this build thread. These are sized a little small, but better than no pictures eh?

The first is the winshield washer reservoir mount, which I re-welded. I am just learning to Mig weld, and it's tough trying to get good when learning on sheet metal, that's for sure.

The next two shots are repairs I have done to the roof -the small one to close up a hole where an antenna had been installed, and the other to patch a rust hole (this neccessitated removal of the spot-welded main rib under the front of the roof panel).

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The next two are repairs to one of the fenders, A crack had precipitated around the shock mount cut out, so I stitched it up and then welded a gusset in.

Then I removed the spot welded mount for the indicator lamp, and welded the hole shut. I am going to be installing 75 series indicator lamps as the design makes a lot more sense to me.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

The next are a couple of shots of the engine and transmission/transfer assembly as it now sits. I've de-rusted and repainted the shift levers and the mounting plate, as well as the pulleys, the exhaust manifold, alternator mounting bracket, and a few other bits. I'm waiting on a gasket set and the oil cooler cover so I can put it back together and onto the chassis again - hopefully by the end of this coming week.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's another shot of the engine.

On another note, I recently discovered that the parking brake lever that mounts on the transmission tunnel is different between RHD and LHD models. The LHD model has a longer mounting, taking advantage of it's position relative to the transmission inspection cover. It's a stronger arrangement than what the RHD trucks have AFAICT, and it means that my parking brake levers ( I have a spare) are of no use.

Fortunately, I was able to locate a good condition parking brake lever, which I will pull this coming week and fit into the cab floor. The cab comes with the mounting bracket pre-installed on the underside of the floor for both LHD and RHD mountings; I simply have needed to cut out the hole in the middle of the mounting, drill out the holes for the bolts, and then weld in some captive nuts.

You can see in the photo the all-new parking brake on the transfer. I need to put some non-melt grease in, along with the cable, before i can fit the new drum on. That's another part - the drum - that is different than the north American spec. drums, as it is a fine spline mount instead of coarse. This change happened in 1981 I believe. That meant getting a drum from far away - Edmonton in this case. It's a Fuji brand unit, made in Japan. The good news is that once the parking brake is done, I shouldn't have to look at it again for a long time. Along with the new drum I put in new shoes, new mounting pin, adjuster, yada-yada - only the backing plate is original.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

here's some shots of the chassis. It's nice to finally be putting pieces back on it after stripping it down. Feels good! My rad support is missing the metal screen along the top, and I'm deliberating on whether to weld another one in, and repaint, or just leave it be.

The third pic show the new steering box support. I used 3/8" bumper bolts, ground the square shanks down to be an interference fit in the holes, inserted from inside the chassis, and then cut off the excess bolt after cranking the nuts down.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

more chassis pics, the first showing the re-done sedimenter and vacuum tank, the other showing the rear spare tire mount. The rear wiring harness is coiled up and ready to be installed (if I can figure out exactly where to run it) Next time maybe I'll take pictures when I disassemble things...

The sedimenter mounting bracket is upside-down, so I'll have to flip it next time I'm working on it.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's where the cab is at: I've cut out the rusty bits on the driver's floor and am in the process of fitting in some replacement sheet (14 guage). The first pic shows one of the re-fabbed cab mounts, my first attempt at welding. The second shows the floor pan patch piece, and the third is the outer rocker, a panel I got from CCOT. It fits really well.

Today i cut a section of corrugated floor out of a BJ60, to use on my floor so it will have the proper look when it's done (so long as I don't butcher the welding ;p). I will try to take pics of that as I fit it in later in the week. You can see where I've marked out in green felt pen the places where the floor corrugations terminate.

And by the way, the porta-potti is not for personal use - it serves as a bucket to catch drips from the leaky roof.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

A couple more shots of the outer rocker (a little blurry I'm afraid) and the floor...

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's the rad fan shroud, ready to be put back on. To the left are the reconditioned jack crank arm, the transfer boot retainer, and the shifter boot retainer. The jack rods are tucked behind the shroud.

I need to take my rad and get it tested, and I'm expecting it will not be good, considering the P.O.'s use of straight water in the cooling system.

I still need to de-rust, straighten, prime and re-paint the rad support rods.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's a couple more shots of the engine that I overlooked yesterday:

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Received a small package from SOR today, so I was able to put the rear differential back on, if only temporarily. First I pulled the old studs and cleaned the flange, then ran a tap through, then installed new studs, and put the gasket on. Then I put the third member on, but will hold off on tightening the bolts for now, as I want to wire wheel it and paint it black before finishing the install.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's the rest of the diff install. It's a later model unit with 4:11 gearing. It was supposed to be a limited slip unit, but once again the P.O. misrepresented the facts and I got ripped off a bit. At least it is in good shape, and I have a spare set of 4:11's that I'll be putting up for sale, and I'm learning lots, so i can laugh about it now.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Here's the awesome new stainless battery tray that come today in the mail. It's sweet!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Today was a good day - I reinstalled the engine! First off i had to put the timing gear cover back on. This came about because I had to replace the oil cooler jacket, which I found to be cracked. I had to pull the injector pump off to get at it. I realized that when it came time to put the pump back, it would be all too easy re-engage the timing gears out of sync. Therefore, I removed the timing case cover so I could be sure the gears meshed properly and that gave me the chance to replace the crankshaft seal, which had a slight weep going on.

To put the timing cover back on, I had to spend an hour with the gasket remover spray and gasket s-c-r-a-p-e-r to remove the old one, PITA, which was welded in there like Flint. Here's some shots of that process, finishing with the replacement of the crankshaft pulley and gorilla-size nut.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

After the cover went on, so did the power steering pump (visible in the last photo above. Then I took the opportunity to pull the idler pulley off the power steering pump bracket, and found the bearing to be a little tored. Off to the bearing supply house to get a pair of NSK bearings, then over to the auto supply to get a 10 mm x 1.5 mm thread nylock nut to secure it.

Next, the moment I have been awaiting with much anticipation: lifting the engine and puttin' it back!!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

easy does it...

You can see in the second picture that i have relocated the vacuum tank to the other side of the chassis. I needed to get another vacuum tank, but was able to re-use the bracket. The relocation means for much simpler and shorted hose routing tot he booster and the alternator pump.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Then I torqued various bolts to correct settings, and then put the heat shielding back on the exhaust manifold. I manged to get a nice set of shields from a wrecker in Australia.

Then I refitted the fuel filter mount and a new filter from the local NAPA outlet.

One problem arose with the new oil cooler bracket: the oil filter bracket I had didn't fit it

After some research and cross-checking of the EPC, I was able to determine that the old oil cooler cover on my engine was made from 1984~85 only. So, either the old cover was itself a replacement, or the entire engine is a replacement. I'll need to check the engine serial number to see what I can find. Anyway, the oil filter mounting will have to wait as the correct bracket needs to be sourced from Oz. There were two types of filter mounting bracket - one was centrifugal, with another canister mounted on top, but I think I'll go with the standard one.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Hers's a final picture showing the power steering pump in more detail.

Next I will be separating the transmission from the bellhousing and repairing a leak emanating from soemwhere inside - hopefully just the input shaft seal.

Then I need to sit the tranny back, put the new tranny mount in and that part is finally done. After that, I will pull the cylinder head and take a look-see, and put in a new head gasket - and hopefully nothing more. Then it will be on to the rear axle where i plan to replace all the bearings and seals. Then I will do a front 60 series disc conversion, and on it goes....

Hoping to get it on the road by the end of June.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Disaster!

Well, after all that work and $$$ on the engine, and the saga of the cracked oil cooler jacket, and then the feeling of triumph at getting the engine back in, I decided to drain the engine oil. The engine had been sitting on it's pan the whole time, so I had waited to drain the oil until the engine was back on the chassis. As the plug came out, so did about 1/2 cup of water, then the rest of the oil

I knew that that was bad news and that the head needed to come off for a look-see. Another 'Mud member came to help, bringing his handy-dandy impact gun. Without it, I don't know how we would have gotten the head bolts off - 3 of them were rusted in place and I was very relieved that they came out without breaking, though it took a while and lots of penetrating oil. We lifted off the head, and the sight was not a pretty one.

In short:

-2 cracks in the head between valves
-rocker arms beaten hollow at the tips-precups cracked
-one of the valve seats was damaged from cavitation of some sort

The head gasket did not betray any obvious signs of failure. The block was another story:

-two piston tops had clearly spent time beating against something metal, poss. a glow plug tip or precup piece
-wear marks on clyinder #6 indicated broken rings
-cylinder #3 was badly eroded, like the valve seats above it

There seemed little point at this juncture looking at the bottom end of the engine. Though it was rebuildable, I certainly needed a new head, and the costs to rebuild, likely $1000/hole, were beyond my finances. I needed to find a new engine. This was a major setback in a project filled with one setback after another (or are those better termed "learning experiences"?

I then started stripping the engine down and pulled it off. Then I separated the tranny, as i had noticed an oily area at the rear of the bellhousing.