HJ47 Troopy Build (Thomas) (1 Viewer)

[Daniel Todd]

I have a 1984 HJ47 troopy named Thomas
This is my first build (rookie) so here for advice and help
Located: Logan, Queensland Australia

Build plan:
Front Diff:
80 series, Elocker, Leaf sprung, manual hubs

Rear Diff:
80 series, Detroit locker, ladder bars, Leaf sprung

Engine:
Stock 2h (until funds increase)

Gearbox/transfer
Stock 4spd (until funds increase)

Body:
Full Roll cage
Custom pop top camper
Widen rear from behind doors
Raise and widen front flairs
Standard bulbar with highmount winch
Custom tube rear bar with toe ball, recovery points and winch
Windscreen vents
Easy fold down windscreen for hunting
Slide out drop down fridge from passenger side
Chassis powder coated
Colour undecided (cream or green)

Design Criteria:
Budget $10,000
Touring/expedition
Reliability

I work and study full time and I use my dads shed in Logan (live in Brisbane) so this is a slow build.

 

[Daniel Todd]

Here is a photo of Thomas and I back in 1999, before 17 years of being neglected to rust.

 

[Vossie]

nice looking troopy.

welcome to the addiction

 

[roscoFJ73]

I have a 1984 HJ47 troopy named Thomas

There is a very annoyed little blue tank engine out there who wants his name back.

 

[Daniel Todd]

HAHA That's what happens when parents let a 7 year old name the new 4wd.

Can anyone suggest upgrades i should be making to the chassis, suspension or diffs since that's what i'm starting on?
i want to have 33" tyres on most of the time and 35" for 4wd trips.

Does anyone know if I should be changing the rear shock angle, i want to get longer shocks anyway so the mounts will change, just not sure if i should keep them angled in or go more vertical. I want to get all the mounts right before i put the chassis in for powder coating.

Instead of body lift for the 35" tyres i'm going to be raising the front guards and changing the rear if i need to, i'd like to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible while getting the travel i need.

 

[Indestructible 47]

nice 47 mate, finally another on here.

I want to make a small suggestion, with only a $10000 budget you aren't gunna have enough to do all the mods you want to. if I were you I would get it running and rego'ed before starting mods, do it as you go. if you do this, you will get a better feel of what you can and are better off not doing.

it is going to turn out real nice though, don't get discouraged once you start on the build. (like I sort of did) oh and take a close up of the Tacho, it makes the Americans jealous.

you got the best year too

 

[Daniel Todd]

$10,000 is what I have aside now, it's just a starting goal. As I earn money I'm sure my budget will grow.

To save doing things twice I'd like to at least get the diffs done, so I can widen the body and adjust the guards to suit. I'm happy to leave anything off which is easy to change in future eg. Lockers, bars, pop top etc.

I already have a few of the mods such as winches, 80 series diff and a few other things I've collected or been given.

I'll have 2 weeks off from Friday so hoping to make some progress

 

[roscoFJ73]

i want to have 33" tyres on most of the time and 35" for 4wd trips.

.

Buy some 34" tyres. I hate changing big (or small)tyres and doing 4 at a time is hate times 4. Even 33" tyres with a 2 inch suspension lift will take you a long way. Add lockers and your unstoppable in all but the toughest situations. And how often do you plan on being there?
I wouldn't spend all that money doing up a 45 only to eventually wreck it. Slow down,do one thing, enjoy it ,do some more when funds allow. Ill bet you'll be surprised just how good it can be with some minor upgrades.
I would do a 1HZ and 5sp conversion early. It will propel the old girl at unheard of speeds.

 

[Vossie]

or 12HT and 5spd, then you get the same power as a 1HZ but cool turbo noise too

 

[dare]

Great build, love the old pic.

I don't mean to be a downer but an 80 series front diff doesn't fit in a 40 with leafs, the pumpkin is to far across and wants to occupy the same space as the spring. Also the rear diff is only offset 7.5" to the drivers side so the tailshaft might not clear your long range tank. 40 series is offset almost 12".

A 60 series front diff with IFS hubs is almost as wide as an 80 diff and can be fitted (it's a tight fit though). You get pretty ridiculous scrub radius if you're running offset wheels though. 60 series rear diffs are also further offset to the drivers side so it will clear the tank.

You could run 60 diffs front and rear, they're still 2.5" wider than 40 diffs. Buds customs or similar could do you a custom housing with the pumpkin in the right spot, custom length axles are readily available from the U.S.

Or you could coil the front.

 

[Daniel Todd]

Yeah I dummy fit the 80 rear diff and noticed that the drive shaft looked like it might nip the tank, I can get that changed easy enough.
The front diff is a concern though, I might need to look into custom however I think it'll be out of my budget. Does anyone know how much the ifs hubs add? If I put them on a 62s diff maybe it'd be close enough to still run the 80 in the rear?

 

[ThatDude]

Does anyone know what this flap/hole is?
On my HJ47 ute I hear it flapping open and closed sometimes. Trying to eliminate heat coming into the passenger-side footwell and wondering if it has anything to do with it?
I can reach up under the dash and into the hole, there's a metal door/flap inside it..

 

[ThatDude]

Does anyone know what this flap/hole is?
On my HJ47 ute I hear it flapping open and closed sometimes. Trying to eliminate heat coming into the passenger-side footwell and wondering if it has anything to do with it?
I can reach up under the dash and into the hole, there's a metal door/flap inside it..

Sorry, I meant to post this in a new post, don't know how I messed that up

 

[Daniel Todd]

Sorry, I meant to post this in a new post, don't know how I messed that up

It's okay, it's for your aircon

 

[Vossie]

Does anyone know what this flap/hole is?
On my HJ47 ute I hear it flapping open and closed sometimes. Trying to eliminate heat coming into the passenger-side footwell and wondering if it has anything to do with it?
I can reach up under the dash and into the hole, there's a metal door/flap inside it..

Those aresponsible your air intakes for the air blower motor. There's a flap over one of them that either allows air from out side in or closes it off so your circulating inside air only.

I thought you were in Australia? This is a left hand drive 47.... ??

 

[Vossie]

Never mind, see what you did there just noticed the fj company logo in backround

 

[Rustic76]

Welcome, looking forward to your build. You will find most troopy related threads over in the FJ45 owners club section.

If your springs are not too sagged out, 35's should fit on your troopy. I have 33 tires on mine with stock suspension and there is plenty of room, especially in the rear.

 

[Daniel Todd]

Does anyone know if i can make new leaf spring mounts for the front go on the outside of the chassis rail instead of directly under so that i can still use the 80 front diff? I just don't know how it'd go getting engineered.

 

[Daniel Todd]

Great build, love the old pic.

I don't mean to be a downer but an 80 series front diff doesn't fit in a 40 with leafs, the pumpkin is to far across and wants to occupy the same space as the spring. Also the rear diff is only offset 7.5" to the drivers side so the tailshaft might not clear your long range tank. 40 series is offset almost 12".

A 60 series front diff with IFS hubs is almost as wide as an 80 diff and can be fitted (it's a tight fit though). You get pretty ridiculous scrub radius if you're running offset wheels though. 60 series rear diffs are also further offset to the drivers side so it will clear the tank.

You could run 60 diffs front and rear, they're still 2.5" wider than 40 diffs. Buds customs or similar could do you a custom housing with the pumpkin in the right spot, custom length axles are readily available from the U.S.

Or you could coil the front.

I was thinking of doing something to this effect, i might take a different approach to making the mount but the idea is the same. any feedback or suggestion on this idea?
I'm hoping this will make enough room to mount the suspension without the centre getting in the way. I don't have a front diff yet so haven't been able to make sure this will actually work.

 

[Vossie]

well you have a pic of it which means it can be done. the difficulty will come in when trying to space it out correctly to sit right on the axle and then you will have to use a very thick steel, gusset it to hell and have it welded correctly and pass engineering.

also remember that this type of configuration will never be as strong bc your weight rests on your bolts/welds rather than directly on the chassis frame