I was hit by a deer on Monday and insurance is giving me $2000 minus my $500 deductible. So I’m wondering if I should just live with the door and fender damage and use the money to get an Arb bumper? Thoughts? This was all done via photos and I do want to have it looked at but it does drive ok so I think it is all cosmetic. it’s an ‘08 with 195k on the odometer
Hit by a deer. Seeking opinions
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Get the door and fender repaired, get it all repaired. Make sure the paint matches.
Otherwise you’ll lose way more than they are giving you if/when you sell.
Otherwise you’ll lose way more than they are giving you if/when you sell.
that's going to cost more than $2k
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
1.) If $2K is their initial offer, get 3 quotes from body shops - niiiiice ones, like the best in the area.
See if you can’t get that figure to move upward a good $1K.
2.) “Body spoons” used on the fender if it’s “click/creaking” / rubbing on the door - will get it functional
3.) Do you ever expect to re-sell, or just drive it square into the ground?
-If you plan to own it ‘till it dies, do the ARB / screw panels aside from functionally sealing & not rubbing when you open/close the door.
If you plan to re-sell ever, then yeah - worry about a fender & doorskin & paint-matching work / $$$
Since it’s a ‘08 & 195K, betting you’re going to drive it into the ground (what I’ll be doing w/ my ‘13) - but my guess.
_——————————
Decide if you plan to be the last owner or sell at some point - decide from there.
If you can live with the wrinkles, wave a $50 at a body guy & ask to use pads where he pries - if it rubs most body guys can get that fender moved & a $50 greenback will make him do good work (BT/DT w/ the old LX450)
See if you can’t get that figure to move upward a good $1K.
2.) “Body spoons” used on the fender if it’s “click/creaking” / rubbing on the door - will get it functional
3.) Do you ever expect to re-sell, or just drive it square into the ground?
-If you plan to own it ‘till it dies, do the ARB / screw panels aside from functionally sealing & not rubbing when you open/close the door.
If you plan to re-sell ever, then yeah - worry about a fender & doorskin & paint-matching work / $$$
Since it’s a ‘08 & 195K, betting you’re going to drive it into the ground (what I’ll be doing w/ my ‘13) - but my guess.
_——————————
Decide if you plan to be the last owner or sell at some point - decide from there.
If you can live with the wrinkles, wave a $50 at a body guy & ask to use pads where he pries - if it rubs most body guys can get that fender moved & a $50 greenback will make him do good work (BT/DT w/ the old LX450)
- Thread starter
- #5
Insurance will supplement if it’s more, I just have to do the legwork. But the $ allotted for the bumper is not enough for an off road bumper.
Appreciate the replies, I have minimal experience with body work so it all helps, thanks!
This!
Typically an adjuster will come eval the damage and they ask for 3 body shop estimates (if you can get three, not the case in all localities).
Soft times they cut you the check then you go to cheaper places or use lesser aftermarket parts to save money, but here I agree with @LINUS .
Get quality estimates and have an adjuster eval damage. With the check you can go where you want. There are.entynifnreports that insurance companies will foot for the aftermarket bumper. But consider they're also insuring what damage you will do the the next guy.... So there are many factors.
Soft times they cut you the check then you go to cheaper places or use lesser aftermarket parts to save money, but here I agree with @LINUS .
Get quality estimates and have an adjuster eval damage. With the check you can go where you want. There are.entynifnreports that insurance companies will foot for the aftermarket bumper. But consider they're also insuring what damage you will do the the next guy.... So there are many factors.
- Thread starter
- #8
It was all new to me. One of my favorite Saturday Night Live characters was Caveman Lawyer (look on YouTube if you don’t know). I feel his pain here in 2020.
The “adjuster” was an app that was actually kind of amazing to use. It had me take photos of the damage, the car, the odometer and my registration. A day later the adjuster called and emailed with what they were going to do. And as mentioned if it ends up being more, they’ll cover it, just need paperwork from the shop.
And yep, @Linus’ ideas are basically what I was thinking-I probably will drive this into the ground and some minor cosmetic “damage” in return for an off road bumper may just be the right call. I’m still waffling......
Again, I appreciate all the input here too!
The “adjuster” was an app that was actually kind of amazing to use. It had me take photos of the damage, the car, the odometer and my registration. A day later the adjuster called and emailed with what they were going to do. And as mentioned if it ends up being more, they’ll cover it, just need paperwork from the shop.
And yep, @Linus’ ideas are basically what I was thinking-I probably will drive this into the ground and some minor cosmetic “damage” in return for an off road bumper may just be the right call. I’m still waffling......
Again, I appreciate all the input here too!
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Bingo!
With my lift I have a few good chips even in the wrinkle-powdercoat where passenger car doors have hit my sliders (some leave color transfer/paint from their door lips) - I always laugh.
With the OP being semi-local to Slee, if theirs fit your truck - grab ‘em.
I paid all of $275, maybe barely over $300 in shipping (weight & length) -a few yrs back.
Still totally worth it.
You got hit by a deer or did you hit the deer? If he hit you I would sue the little bastid for the damages.
- Thread starter
- #12
Hit and run!
If the adjuster said they would cover it if the cost is more, go for it but get that clause in writing. You don't wanna be out of pocket because of a "misunderstanding".
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
If you don’t mind sharing, who is your insurer?
Some infamously lowball then get better when you get tougher & some give offers they plan to stick to pretty close- I hear USAA is a pretty tight ship, but it’s also why they aren’t the most $$$ on premiums.
I had Farmers when they were decent, but Safeco is my DD insure/mainly decent to deal with.
My project is a Hagerty stated value thing, but that’s not even on the road right now.
Some infamously lowball then get better when you get tougher & some give offers they plan to stick to pretty close- I hear USAA is a pretty tight ship, but it’s also why they aren’t the most $$$ on premiums.
I had Farmers when they were decent, but Safeco is my DD insure/mainly decent to deal with.
My project is a Hagerty stated value thing, but that’s not even on the road right now.
- Thread starter
- #15
I’ve been with Geico for about 15 years. I had been using an independent one then moved to Hawaii (Limited options there at the time) and geico was the best deal I could get for the coverage I needed.
I did just get off the phone with a shop who also used pics to tell me he thought it was $3k worth of work. He was also used to the idea that geico would cover the difference but it’s a tug o’war game and one way or another the insurance company wins—rates go up or whatever.
but he gave me a “homework assignment” I thought was a good idea for where I am right now and all the deer around. I’m sure this isn’t new to most but I hadn’t thought about it at all. He said to ask the insurance company to raise my collision deductible and lower my comprehensive. Might cost a few extra dollars a month but will probably pay for itself.
I have a lot of mixed feelings about insurance and the requirement to have it but in the long run I feel like I have gotten what I’ve paid for.
sorry I could’ve answered with one word but felt like babbling.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
^^^ When you’re in a semi-sorta crapstorm, you use words or go get violent on your local agent.
You picked the better option- obviously
Anyhow - get those quotes / follow advice given by the shop/advisor to temporarily do all their games to get more $$$.
It’s no coincidence the banks & insurance companies are now 75% of the names on sport stadiums - and somehow that must help their taxes.
You do you & even meet with a lawyer - I bet that deer gave you “whiplash” - I’m not saying it’s a moral game, but insurance is a legal game.
As LEO’s say “my job is legal, not moral”.
Sux but real.
You picked the better option- obviously
Anyhow - get those quotes / follow advice given by the shop/advisor to temporarily do all their games to get more $$$.
It’s no coincidence the banks & insurance companies are now 75% of the names on sport stadiums - and somehow that must help their taxes.
You do you & even meet with a lawyer - I bet that deer gave you “whiplash” - I’m not saying it’s a moral game, but insurance is a legal game.
As LEO’s say “my job is legal, not moral”.
Sux but real.
With my luck the deer would sue me just for being there.
Insurance companies do this now as standard procedure. They give you their estimated payment up front, which is always low. If you choose to actually get it fixed they pay the shop the difference in what it cost to repair. Is to keep their cost down from people who get the big quote but don't get it fixed. You can argue with them about the initial payment, but they're just going to say "hey no problem if it cost $6,000 we will pay it, we're just going to pay the shop the difference so we know it was fixed"
- Thread starter
- #20
That’s the verdict......I still want the Arb bumper though (and sliders!)
