High lift jack alternatives. (1 Viewer)

[cruiseroutfit]

The Tauler Jack is another neat lift/lower (only) option, would work for jack/stack, jack/cast, and wheel lifting too. I think they are neat. However, like the ARB Jack and other hydro units (albeit at a muuuuch lower cost), they don't have the utility of the Hi-Lift. Might be a non-issue for many use cases/needs. At the end of the day, I still use a factory Toyota bottle jack for most lifting needs, doesn't need to unload the axle/suspension, requires the lowest lift and for tire repairs, jack/stack, etc... it's often the quickest too.

 

[hoser]

I have the ARB, Badlands and 60" Hi-lift. If I can only take one, I take the Hi-Lift for the reasons Kurt mentioned..... versatility. If I can get a trail buddy to bring his Hi-Lift, I'll take the ARB as it is nicer to use. But I feel like I have to be gentle with it so as to not dent/mar the finish and piston. The Hi-Lift/Badlands combo would actually be best but the Badlands is cumbersome to carry for me. I once used the ARB to straighten an aluminum wheel (tire couldn't seal against bent wheel). The precise hydraulic action was nice (vs Hi-lift).

 

[TeCKis300]

The Tauler Jack is another neat lift/lower (only) option, would work for jack/stack, jack/cast, and wheel lifting too. I think they are neat. However, like the ARB Jack and other hydro units (albeit at a muuuuch lower cost), they don't have the utility of the Hi-Lift. Might be a non-issue for many use cases/needs. At the end of the day, I still use a factory Toyota bottle jack for most lifting needs, doesn't need to unload the axle/suspension, requires the lowest lift and for tire repairs, jack/stack, etc... it's often the quickest too.

All hail the mighty Toyota mechanical bottle jack. Most compact, lightweight, and elegant solution to 90% of the lifting needs. Punches way above it's weight.

11" stroke from 8" to 19.375". Weighs only 5.5lbs

I've got buddies from Raptors to Subaru's pickup these Toyota OEM jacks once they see them in action.

 

[kcjaz]

All hail the mighty Toyota mechanical bottle jack. Most compact, lightweight, and elegant solution to 90% of the lifting needs. Punches way above it's weight.

11" stroke from 8" to 19.375". Weighs only 5.5lbs

I've got buddies from Raptors to Subaru's pickup these Toyota OEM jacks once they see them in action.

I have three OEM bottle jacks. One in the truck and 2 miscellaneous service in the shop.

 

[TeCKis300]

Would love to hear your thoughts and feedback on it once you have it built and tried it out!

Burning it in this morning. Pretty fun and easy as all components are 1/4" plate meaning hard to burn through or get it too wrong. I'm using flux core mig at 250 amps. Not the prettiest stuff but there will be plenty of penetration and the components have lots of surface area to get a strong and functional part. Just saying this would be a good project even for a beginner or a hack welder (me).

Maybe interesting comparison:

OEM bottle jack - 11" stroke, from 8" to 19.375". Weighs 5.5lbs
Bennan's Tauler jack - 15" stroke, from 6" to 50" (min height of 25" tall). Weighs 25.5lbs

Bennan

 

[Boston Mangler]

at the end of the day, I still use a factory Toyota bottle jack for most lifting needs, doesn't need to unload the axle/suspension, requires the lowest lift and for tire repairs, jack/stack, etc... it's often the quickest too.

This! So much this! I agree 100%

It’s hilarious here in SoCal, the “maxtrax on everything” trend has kinda faded away, and now its “hilifts on everything trend

Usually on the stock roof rack, usually with absolutely zero places on the vehicle to actually lift from. It’s great free comedy.

I’ve had and used dang near every type of jack on the market. OEM Bottle jack wins 99.76% of the time

Hilifts definitely have their place to be used and Kurt brings up great points that the assistance isn’t always needed up/down.

I’m an OEM Bottle jack for life type of guy…

At home with my big dumb 5500 camper, I use this and find it’s the best jack ever, and I actually bring it with me on trips. Yes it’s big, yes it’s heavy, but with some SafeTJack attachments I find it to be the best solution for the big stuff (air and or hydro):

Amazon.com: Omega 18204C Black/White Air Actuated Bottle Jack - 20 Ton Capacity : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Omega 18204C Black/White Air Actuated Bottle Jack - 20 Ton Capacity: Bottle Jacks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

amzn.to

 

[Boston Mangler]

ARB Bushranger Exhaust jack is always an option.

I've met guys that used this quite extensively and really liked it. No personal experience with it.

I have used one messing around to see how it worked.

It did the job as advertised, but with the vehicle required to be running to use it, that limits it somewhat IMHO

 

[Boston Mangler]

Yup. I'm building one at the moment. Here's a great article. Tauler Jack Review: Why It’s Better Than Your Jack - https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/tauler-jack-review-brennans-garage

This is slick and the first I’ve heard of this. Very cool

 

[gaijin]

I have used one messing around to see how it worked.

It did the job as advertised, but with the vehicle required to be running to use it, that limits it somewhat IMHO

No need to inflate with exhaust, there is a schrader valve (same as a tire valve) that can be used with any air compressor to inflate the big bag.

FYI

 

[Boston Mangler]

No need to inflate with exhaust, there is a schrader valve (same as a tire valve) that can be used with any air compressor to inflate the big bag.

FYI

Ooooh…. Was not aware.

In That Case. This is a pretty good option as well

 

[cruiseroutfit]

No need to inflate with exhaust, there is a schrader valve (same as a tire valve) that can be used with any air compressor to inflate the big bag.

FYI

This. It's nearly entirely impossible to solo use the airbag when inflating with exhaust. But with compressed air, it's a manageable, albeit slow, process. Also, be careful using CO2 with exhaust jacks, rapid inflation can lead to crazy cold input air temps and the surrounding bag material can get brittle and crack.

 

[TeCKis300]

Done. Actually still want to mod the hand crank to take a drill input. This thing goes way high up.

 

[teejnut]

Done. Actually still want to mod the hand crank to take a drill input. This thing goes way high up.

View attachment 3963748

Where would you lift from? Any nifty mount ideas?

 

[TeCKis300]

Where would you lift from? Any nifty mount ideas?

Haven't gotten that far yet. I do have hard point on all 4 sides but need to figure out if the lifting jaw is compatible. I can say the jaw isn't deep enough to reach around the Slee slider steps. The jaw can be used with a soft shackle that allows more option including lifting from the wheel spokes.

 

[kcjaz]

The lawyers at ARB seem to have a sense of humor:

It’s a bit like when I’d give Construction drawings that were stamped “not for construction”. It should just say, “not liable for Stupid.”

I do need to figure out better lift points. Generally I use the sliders as close to the when at possible, but the jaw on the ARB jack isn’t long enough to get under the flat part of the slider so I’d have to lift from the tube part of the slider which isn’t great. I’m thinking about welding some flat blocks to the sliders to use a lift points.

I have a Dissent rear bumper and there are no good lift points on the corners. Also thinking about welding a “lifting pad” to make a flat spot on the bottom of the wings for the jack jaw.

Alternatively maybe I could cut square holes in the wings, weld in some reinforcement to use as lift points. My TJM front bumper has this feature, though its a T slot designed for a HighLift jaw that currently doesn’t work with my new ARB jack.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The lawyers at ARB seem to have a sense of humor:
View attachment 3964142

It’s a bit like when I’d give Construction drawings that were stamped “not for construction”. It should just say, “not liable for Stupid.”

To be fair, Hi-Lift and most of that style will say the same thing, they are for lifting, not supporting, hence another reason to use a bottle jack if you need to work around/under or remove a tire.

I do need to figure out better lift points. Generally I use the sliders as close to the when at possible, but the jaw on the ARB jack isn’t long enough to get under the flat part of the slider so I’d have to lift from the tube part of the slider which isn’t great. I’m thinking about welding some flat blocks to the sliders to use a lift points.

I have a Dissent rear bumper and there are no good lift points on the corners. Also thinking about welding a “lifting pad” to make a flat spot on the bottom of the wings for the jack jaw.

View attachment 3964148
Alternatively maybe I could cut square holes in the wings, weld in some reinforcement to use as lift points. My TJM front bumper has this feature, though its a T slot designed for a HighLift jaw that currently doesn’t work with my new ARB jack.

I'm excited to see what you come up with. I have had great luck using the ARB Jack (and Hi-Lift) with an appropriate soft shackle or endless loop to do wheel lifts, even if lifting to be able to put a jack stand (or tree stump) under the vehicle for repairs. And like I'm always preaching, if you can lift at the axle or wheel/tire, you don't have to unload all of the suspension to get a tire in the air. Win-Win.

 

[kcjaz]

To be fair, Hi-Lift and most of that style will say the same thing, they are for lifting, not supporting, hence another reason to use a bottle jack if you need to work around/under or remove a tire.

View attachment 3964160










I'm excited to see what you come up with. I have had great luck using the ARB Jack (and Hi-Lift) with an appropriate soft shackle or endless loop to do wheel lifts, even if lifting to be able to put a jack stand (or tree stump) under the vehicle for repairs. And like I'm always preaching, if you can lift at the axle or wheel/tire, you don't have to unload all of the suspension to get a tire in the air. Win-Win.

I get it and nothing makes me more nervous than seeing a lifted corner, no wheel, and nothing else under the truck to support it or at least catch it if it falls off the jack. A couple weeks ago I was watching a guy fixing a broken tie rod with his high lift being the only thing holding his truck up and his whole body under the truck. I lent him my bottle jack and base to use as a jack stand. Tires are a good thing to put under the frame too.

 

[TheIcemanCometh]

Reading this thread again brought back memories as kid with a car that had a bumper jack (basically a hilift jack). I can remember when lowering the vehicle we would remove the handle, flip the unlocking mechanism, and tap it in such a way that it just ratcheted itself down. Sometimes quicker that expected.

The take-a-way from this thread is there are lots of options out there, no one is the absolute best. Regardless of which is used one should know the pros and cons (especially the cons).

 

[Boston Mangler]

Reading this thread again brought back memories as kid with a car that had a bumper jack (basically a hilift jack). I can remember when lowering the vehicle we would remove the handle, flip the unlocking mechanism, and tap it in such a way that it just ratcheted itself down. Sometimes quicker that expected.

The take-a-way from this thread is there are lots of options out there, no one is the absolute best. Regardless of which is used one should know the pros and cons (especially the cons).

This…

I’ve seen more than one, ok, damn near a half dozen, using hi lift on slider, or similar, and it slips and the main upright goes right into the door leaving a boo-boo. I’ve came very close to doing it myself.

Having tool is one thing, having proper mounting spot (or methods) is another.

Everyone has their comfort level with various things and it’s always good to share and learn new ideas

 

[LCH21]

This is what I carry in addition to the Toyota jack:

Powerbuilt All in One though my box say Unijack.