For all of you that have problems with your hi beam lights, don't give up. I had searched and read several other posts, and this seems to be a common problem among 60 and 62 owners.
Symptoms:
Low beams work, hi beams work when you pull lever toward you, but when you push lever forward ALL the lights go out.
Some folks found that contacts had broken off and they needed to re-solder the contacts and wires. Others said that cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner had worked, and I had tried this, but it didn't fix my problem. Well this problem had plagued me for a few years and I was so frustrated that I almost bit the bullet to buy a new switch from Toyota - big buck$. Today I completely disassembled the switch mechanism and cleaned the contacts with emery cloth - well, 600 grit sandpaper actually, and that my friends was the difference!! As you probably already know, contact cleaner doesn't clear away the arc'ed black gunk on the contacts, which was the culprit for me, and explains why I was unsuccessful on previous attempts to fix it.
Many of you probably won't need it, but for those who need some hand-holding, here is the step by step how to:
1. Print this out. I didn't take pictures - sorry - so this procedure will make more sense if you can see the parts in front of you.
2. Remove all the screws from the bottom side of the plastic steering column cover.
3. Pop the hood and remove the connector to ONE of your horns - this is to prevent annoying honking while you work inside.
4. Wiggle and pry the horn pad out of the steering wheel - just pops out.
5. Loosen and remove the 19mm nut that holds the steering wheel on the shaft. Wiggle and pull the steering wheel off the splines on the steering shaft.
6. Pop, pffft, fizz, Glug, Glug, GLUG. AHHHHHHH!!
Hooray beer!
7. Remove the 4 phillips screws that hold the switch assembly to the column.
8. Follow the wiring harness down and locate the blue terminal block. Remove the 2 screws on the blue block and the 2 on the black strain relief.
9. Disconnect the 2 smaller black connectors from the large blue terminal block and take the entire assembly over to a well lit workbench - preferably in close proximity to your garage beer fridge.
10. On the back of the assembly, remove the 2 screws holding the turn signal and warning flasher block, then gently fold all the green wires out of your way.
11. Remove the 3 screws that hold the block with the red wires - this is your pesky culprit - then remove the little clear plastic cover from that block. Notice the back of this block has a spring loaded plunger contact, which goes through the housing and makes contact with the actual turn signal lever arm. Scratch that little portion of the lever arm inside the small hole to get a nice clean contact area - I used a small jewelers screwdriver.
12. Use fine sandpaper or emery cloth on the plunger tip that goes into the hole and contacts the lever arm.
13. Now use your sandpaper on ALL the contact points of the springy copper bits - both sides - and be sure to blast away all your grit with air, or contact cleaner.
14. Carefully reassemble the switch assembly with the 3 and 2 phillips screws that you last removed. Take the whole thing back to your truck and slave it in to see if you actually fixed your problem.
15. Yes? That's what I thought, or at least hope. Reassemble everything in the reverse order you took it apart. Before you put the steering wheel on, you may want to put a little lithium grease on the ball bearing dohickey which is the detent for the turn signals.
16. Don't forget to reconnect your horn. Cerveza anyone?
Sorry about no pix - and the 1000 words, but I hope this helps another 60 series with the same illness.
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Symptoms:
Low beams work, hi beams work when you pull lever toward you, but when you push lever forward ALL the lights go out.
Some folks found that contacts had broken off and they needed to re-solder the contacts and wires. Others said that cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner had worked, and I had tried this, but it didn't fix my problem. Well this problem had plagued me for a few years and I was so frustrated that I almost bit the bullet to buy a new switch from Toyota - big buck$. Today I completely disassembled the switch mechanism and cleaned the contacts with emery cloth - well, 600 grit sandpaper actually, and that my friends was the difference!! As you probably already know, contact cleaner doesn't clear away the arc'ed black gunk on the contacts, which was the culprit for me, and explains why I was unsuccessful on previous attempts to fix it.
Many of you probably won't need it, but for those who need some hand-holding, here is the step by step how to:
1. Print this out. I didn't take pictures - sorry - so this procedure will make more sense if you can see the parts in front of you.
2. Remove all the screws from the bottom side of the plastic steering column cover.
3. Pop the hood and remove the connector to ONE of your horns - this is to prevent annoying honking while you work inside.
4. Wiggle and pry the horn pad out of the steering wheel - just pops out.
5. Loosen and remove the 19mm nut that holds the steering wheel on the shaft. Wiggle and pull the steering wheel off the splines on the steering shaft.
6. Pop, pffft, fizz, Glug, Glug, GLUG. AHHHHHHH!!
Hooray beer!7. Remove the 4 phillips screws that hold the switch assembly to the column.
8. Follow the wiring harness down and locate the blue terminal block. Remove the 2 screws on the blue block and the 2 on the black strain relief.
9. Disconnect the 2 smaller black connectors from the large blue terminal block and take the entire assembly over to a well lit workbench - preferably in close proximity to your garage beer fridge.
10. On the back of the assembly, remove the 2 screws holding the turn signal and warning flasher block, then gently fold all the green wires out of your way.
11. Remove the 3 screws that hold the block with the red wires - this is your pesky culprit - then remove the little clear plastic cover from that block. Notice the back of this block has a spring loaded plunger contact, which goes through the housing and makes contact with the actual turn signal lever arm. Scratch that little portion of the lever arm inside the small hole to get a nice clean contact area - I used a small jewelers screwdriver.
12. Use fine sandpaper or emery cloth on the plunger tip that goes into the hole and contacts the lever arm.
13. Now use your sandpaper on ALL the contact points of the springy copper bits - both sides - and be sure to blast away all your grit with air, or contact cleaner.
14. Carefully reassemble the switch assembly with the 3 and 2 phillips screws that you last removed. Take the whole thing back to your truck and slave it in to see if you actually fixed your problem.
15. Yes? That's what I thought, or at least hope. Reassemble everything in the reverse order you took it apart. Before you put the steering wheel on, you may want to put a little lithium grease on the ball bearing dohickey which is the detent for the turn signals.
16. Don't forget to reconnect your horn. Cerveza anyone?
Sorry about no pix - and the 1000 words, but I hope this helps another 60 series with the same illness.
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and I am a rookie! Total cost: $0
