High Beam Lights FIXED!! Finally!

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Thanks !

thanks to the OP and youall for bringing it back to the top i have this goin on myself and hope to work on it within the week.. again thanks..... :beer:
edit: easy 45 minuite no cost job and worked perfectly !!
 
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First off, thanks to Screwbird for posting this up. I picked up my FJ62 Friday and had the wiring harness out cleaning contacts on Saturday. Unfortunately for me, after sanding (600 grit) and cleaning every contact I could find, my high beams are only about 50% reliable. The other 50% of the time it's lights out when I flip the lever.

The high beams always work when the lever is pulled to flash them. It seems that pulling the lever compresses the plunger, making contact inside the switch to activate the high beams. My question is: What contact is created to activate the high beams when the lever is pushed forward?

I cleaned all of the contact points I could find, but if I go back in there, I'd like to focus on a specific contact point.

Thanks.
 
mookie said:
one addtion to the original post- on my 60 the horn pad doesn't just pop out, there's three screws on the underside of the steering wheel that hold it on
Click to expand...

I did my 60 again after a couple years of original fix, just for future help for someone, the LC emblem in the middle of the steering wheel prys out to access the 19mm nut , no need to pull the horn pad
 
so my headlight issues seem to be the same as these symptoms,and will be doing this procedure this weekend.
the only thing not mentioned in the posts- is that my hi-beam light stays on all the time regardless of where the switch position is. i figured i would go ahead and replace both headlights at this time. after replacing one headlight,i checked and was still having the issue.
could not find the light on all the time in any of the older post? i will update if this cleaning helps with all the issues.
thanks for the original post,people like me and others rely on these older post to help work are way through the tpyical fixes than need to be done as our cruisers get older and we put even more miles on them:cheers:
 
This has the be the most effective and most employed fix from this group.

Was it Kev that came up with it? Whoever it was was a bloody champ!
 
Just performed this fix using the OP's directions to the letter. 45 minutes including an iced tea break and it was done! Thanks so much to Screwbird, Turkeypen and the rest of you guys for your info!
 
AA996 said:
Just performed this fix using the OP's directions to the letter. 45 minutes including an iced tea break and it was done!
Click to expand...

I don't know which I find more amazing, that you were able to fix something on one of these rigs in less than 45 mins or that you are drinking iced tea in January!
While the rest of us are getting ready to take another ride on the 'Polar Vortex'...

By the way, between the FJ62 and the Ducati you've captured the best of both worlds. Crawling and speed. That's the exact solution I'm working towards...got the crawling part taken care of...speed is next step.
 
Are there any other "fixes" or any guidance in this area?

I've disassembled the switch and cleaned all the contacts, the high beam indicator lights up on push or pull of the lever but headlights go out. They used to flash bright but now nothin'.

Is there a relay I've fried, or a fuse I'm failing to check (both HL fuses are OK), or is it possible or likely that both high filaments are burnt? Like I said brights used to flash so I'm wondering if I shorted something during the cleaning process.

Thanks in advance, nothing like keeping a years-old thread going...

TDC.-
 
I've played that game once before, turned out the gloves died within a day of each other. I thought it was unlikely but I figured if they were installed at the same time (which they were- H4 upgrade) and from the same batch (somewhat likely) then it's completely possible they would fail at very similar times.

Probably not your issue here, in my tired state I would suggest checking your fuses/CBs although that doesn't make much sense because high and low wouldn't work......
 
We're the lights working ok prior to your pulling the steering/stalk assembly apart?
You may have dislodged a contact in the stalk?

Do you have the round or rectangle lights, are they sealed or semi sealed?
 
Such a simple thread that costs nothing but your time, definitely adding this to my bucket list while I've got the steering wheel and surrounds off.

Thanks :cheers:
 
It's crazy how much copper dust you find in there, even just driving around you notice it around the surround.
 
Thank you, thank you, Thank you! I used this post as a reference for fixing no Low Beams. My only working lights were Hi and Low while High Beams were selected. When I turned on my headlights I only had running lights and the high beam indicator on the dash was super bright. I followed all the instructions in Screwbird's post but didn't fix my problem. The fix finally occurred when I removed the metal piece at the end of the stalk and cleaned up it's connection with the ball detent. The piece I needed to clean up was the 2 screws just left of the steering shaft facing the driver in Turkey Pen's photo. Thanks to both of you for the help.
Cheers! :cheers:
 
I'll add my voice to the chorus of thanks for Screwbird's high beam fix. Got this sorted today.

What I'll add is that if you remove the small clear plastic cover which protects the brass contacts but leave the stalk in place you can see straight away what contact needs cleaning by pushing the stalk forward. I say this because the first time I rubbed all the contacts as described and it didn't work. Once I could see which contact was the problem I had to apply quite a lot more abrasion to remove pitting and dulling on the contact. I closed the contact with the sandpaper in it and rubbed away til it shined. That got it : first time I've had high beam for years!

This is a particularly welcome fix because my right hand drive Tasmanian truck is now in Germany and is going for its first roadworthy in 33 years. In Tas I didn't bother fixing it as I rarely drove at night but now it's about the rules down at the TÜV testing station. As they sit on the Left side here and the switch is the other way round I was looking to get the part in from Aus - not cheap and not totally guaranteed to work by the wreckers who were selling it. So this fix has set me up and saved me a few $$$s/€€€s.

Thanks Screwbird - I'm drinking a beer now as per instructions in the write up.
 
Excellent post! Having this exact issue and going to try this fix now. Why isn't this in the FAQ???
 
Got everything taken apart. Examined and cleaned all contacts. Put everything back together and hooked it back up. No joy... In frustration I gave it a good whack right where the stalk connects to the assembly and Voila!, I have bright lights again!

I'm sure there's a lesson here...

Screwbird stills deserves props for this one almost nine years later. And might I add that so far these are the best non-illustrated directions I've ever followed! Excellent job!

THIS BELONGS IN THE FAQ!!!
 
this thread is awesome!!:steer::wrench::clap:
mine hasn't been working for a long time and had planned on getting a used good one; came back to this thread and to plan removing the old useless dimmer; like to make a dry run and clean things up before putting in new parts, took the multiswitch out and apart and it was absolutely caked with the grime of 260000 + miles in addition to the housing halves being cracked and held together with wood screws:eek::censor:; cleaned wiring harness and contacts up to get ready for the new used one, put it back in so I could drive it and i will be damned if it isn't working:bounce: what the heck:hmm: but for how long:hmm: wondering if I need to just go ahead and get the used dimmer switch from my friendly vendor or hold off for other things am needing;
 
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hmmm,:( but the flasher is not working when I pull back on the light lever; blue dash light comes on but not light at all :confused:, hi and low beams working fine though:bounce:any suggestions??
 
check the connections to the relay? look for loose ground...or a mechanical issue- like the detent not being lined up correctly...
 
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