Hi Louis, FreewayP
Louis, Last year I shared with you the photos of the plates I made - but to save Freeway some thread scanning time I am attaching a few of them again.
The lights work great--thank you for making the brackets.
HID MINI H1 BRACKET AND PROJECTOR INSTALL GUIDE (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Luke111
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Hi Louis, FreewayP
Louis, Last year I shared with you the photos of the plates I made - but to save Freeway some thread scanning time I am attaching a few of them again.
The lights work great--thank you for making the brackets.
I just completed my HID retrofit using Lou's brackets, his Morimoto Mini H1 8.0 kit and a new set of OEM glass LX headlights and very happy with the results! Lou was very gracious with his time to coach me through the various steps and it is definitely a process with a learning curve but definitely achievable with a bit of patience. A few tips from my experience:
- Don't use any metal tools to pry the lenses off the headlight assemblies, you may well chip the glass. Go slow and steady with a plastic pry/wedge tool and they will easily come away given a little time and pressure.
- For the headlight calibration step, there are a few guides out there. As Lou mentions, leave the lenses off so you can adjust the bolts from the front. Find a level ground with a wall, at 24 ft perpendicular to the wall mark out 2 inches below the center of your headlight level on the wall and then align your beam with that level. Worked perfectly for me!
- Make sure your shrouds are clean after putting your lenses back on. I had quite a few smudges on mine that I only noticed after the lenses were back on - they're going to annoy me but not worth taking the lenses off to clean.
- If you get butyl tape on anything, you can use Goo Gone to dissolve it. Be careful with IPA, it seems to eat away the chrome finish on the shrouds.
- The sidelights are a pain to remove, the best way is to use a plastic pry tool and use it on the bottom space between the sidelight and the headlight. The bottom clip is super hard to reach from underneath, gave up on that.
Definitely one of my favorite upgrades for the LX, lights now seem better than my Tesla Model 3! Highly recommended!
- Don't use any metal tools to pry the lenses off the headlight assemblies, you may well chip the glass. Go slow and steady with a plastic pry/wedge tool and they will easily come away given a little time and pressure.
- For the headlight calibration step, there are a few guides out there. As Lou mentions, leave the lenses off so you can adjust the bolts from the front. Find a level ground with a wall, at 24 ft perpendicular to the wall mark out 2 inches below the center of your headlight level on the wall and then align your beam with that level. Worked perfectly for me!
- Make sure your shrouds are clean after putting your lenses back on. I had quite a few smudges on mine that I only noticed after the lenses were back on - they're going to annoy me but not worth taking the lenses off to clean.
- If you get butyl tape on anything, you can use Goo Gone to dissolve it. Be careful with IPA, it seems to eat away the chrome finish on the shrouds.
- The sidelights are a pain to remove, the best way is to use a plastic pry tool and use it on the bottom space between the sidelight and the headlight. The bottom clip is super hard to reach from underneath, gave up on that.
Definitely one of my favorite upgrades for the LX, lights now seem better than my Tesla Model 3! Highly recommended!
What did you go with for the fogs looks good love this color lx
Does anyone have experience purchasing assembled OEM glass headlights with these brackets retrofit?
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #105
The glass and polycarbonate are identical inside so the bracket works for either housing. If you’re asking whether there are glass headlights available retrofitted already I don’t have any. I personally do not recommend the glass headlight. All it takes is one stone hit and you’re buying a new headlight assembly.
I have glass and didn't convert to poly but Luke111 is right. He also was very helpful with not only providing me the kit but also walking me through some of the fabrication/installation questions I had. This upgrade is my favorite of my 100 series. I added an Ironman front bumper and the LED's that come with that bumper match up great with this kit.
Can anyone confirm what harness is needed with the Morimoto Mini H1 HID stage III setup in an LX?
I'm ready to get started ordering parts, and I thought the kit would require the H1 harness, but when using the install guide post's order list, it doesn't specify and the link defaults to 9006 harness.
I'm ready to get started ordering parts, and I thought the kit would require the H1 harness, but when using the install guide post's order list, it doesn't specify and the link defaults to 9006 harness.
2 questions so far while ordering.
What high bean splitter do we choose? The link does not say which option to choose, hard to guess from the pictures vs their website.
Secondly, is this all correct for ordering the actual morimotos? Thank you for the harness info above, there are just a lot of options here haha.
What high bean splitter do we choose? The link does not say which option to choose, hard to guess from the pictures vs their website.
Secondly, is this all correct for ordering the actual morimotos? Thank you for the harness info above, there are just a lot of options here haha.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #110
You should order grey sealant and I would select a high bulb kelvin. 4000k bulbs will severely limit your light output. The kit that I've been putting together for years has 6000k bulbs and they are pure white.
If you don't want 6000 increase from 4000k. Make sure you pick up some dialectic grease and use in all your connections.
If you don't want 6000 increase from 4000k. Make sure you pick up some dialectic grease and use in all your connections.
Here's exactly what I ordered last month.
I didn't seem to actually need the Moto Hold1ers, they were in the box with the projectors.
I would agree with Luke on stepping up in Bulb Kelvin, I ordered 4k, and wish I had gotten a higher version.
You will need the glue to reattach the front covers.
I didn't seem to actually need the Moto Hold1ers, they were in the box with the projectors.
I would agree with Luke on stepping up in Bulb Kelvin, I ordered 4k, and wish I had gotten a higher version.
You will need the glue to reattach the front covers.
Another question before I start this next week. As I understand it the new projectors will drop the shield and become high beams. What happens to the old High beams (smaller lights closest to the grill) now that they will be "replaced" by the morimotos next to them. Do they still work as running lights? do they also go into high beam mode still because we are using a splitter?
