Yep, and we enjoy educating newbies to these trucks. The key needs to be on, but don't start the truck. I don't have the codes for an 89, and I'm sure my 1985 is similar, but not sure how much. This has been discussed lots, so you might try a search for trouble codes.Does the switch have to be on or off of ether ? Sorry about all the questions but this truck is new to me and I think has had too many fingers in it.
FIRST:Yes, $94 and 4 to 5 week waiting time and is not Star Certified Smog Center
Just to add, this can also cause issues setting the timing correctly. If timing sets good and it runs great, it is likely the TPS is ok,...but not always. YMMV
I called them this morning for you and yes they are Star Certified. I also verified this on the BAR website. The lady could have had you drop the truck off this morning. She also has an opening for Monday the 16th.
The reviews are good for this place compared to the other two I you assume you are talking about. They DO offer unlimited retests if they perform the approved repairs. The cost is not out of line considering your area.
I would go there and take care of what you need. They are closer to you and it will be cheaper in gas and time to get this done right and timely.
You are in a change of ownership area. Meaning you only need to perform a smog inspection for DMV if you are selling the vehicle or the person you purchased it from failed to do so. With that said, the dishonest route would be to claim on your DMV form that the title is being transferred between you and an immediate family member: Parent, Grandparent or Sibling. Making this claim means you will no longer be required to have an inspection done. If the person at the counter says otherwise talk to the next person or a supervisor.(unless you have it registered in a different county)
If it is indeed registered in your county, you are required to have a Two Speed Idle Test. This means they will do a functional on the EGR Valve, Timing, Smoke Test, Evap, Fuel Cap, MIL light operation, Emissions Test and the Visual.
I say this because it will change a little what needs to be focused on. When they sampled your exhaust at the first shop (that I still do not recommend) I assume it was not a full dynamic test. With a TSI inspection your RPM's will be held at 2500 then idled. If this portion fails the analyzer will prompt for the engine to be held at 2500 RPM's again for an extended time to get the cat nice and hot, then perform the same test again.
Doing this warm up if it does indeed fail the first try, could most likely allow you to pass.
If you want to do repairs prior to anything then I personally would do this: replace plugs and wires, set timing to 5deg BTDC, replace O2 sensor, run a bottle of Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner, and replace the air filter. Also make sure you do not have any vacuum leaks or a torn intake boot. Remove the boot to inspect properly and install tight.
When setting timing make sure you jumper the diagnostic connector and that the engine light is flashing. This makes sure the timing is in base mode and not advanced.
After these have been performed, try the smog inspection and report back. The more expensive repairs need to wait until you have more info.
The next areas of repair/inspection would be fuel control: Air Flow Meter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Injector; proper operation of the Air Injection System (if you have one); then finally the Catalytic Converter.
Of course all of these areas can be tested for proper operation at the shop before replacing. LOTS of shops will just throw parts at it though.
Have not been able to work on it, too busy and now the snow is flying, so I don't know when I will be able to get to it. I have a lot of working coming up soon.Any luck?I