Hi to everyone, new to this form. Need help with getting truck to pass smog

pappy

photosynthesizing
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Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
9,980
Location
Too far north. Too far east.
Does the switch have to be on or off of ether ? Sorry about all the questions but this truck is new to me and I think has had too many fingers in it.
Yep, and we enjoy educating newbies to these trucks. The key needs to be on, but don't start the truck. I don't have the codes for an 89, and I'm sure my 1985 is similar, but not sure how much. This has been discussed lots, so you might try a search for trouble codes.

As far as beverage, what ever you want. If it has bubbles, that's good. Though, I really don't know your age … so I will leave it there. :cool:
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
1,726
Location
Sacramento,CA
Yes, $94 and 4 to 5 week waiting time and is not Star Certified Smog Center
FIRST:
I called them this morning for you and yes they are Star Certified. I also verified this on the BAR website. The lady could have had you drop the truck off this morning. She also has an opening for Monday the 16th.

The reviews are good for this place compared to the other two I you assume you are talking about. They DO offer unlimited retests if they perform the approved repairs. The cost is not out of line considering your area.

I would go there and take care of what you need. They are closer to you and it will be cheaper in gas and time to get this done right and timely.

SECOND:
You are in a change of ownership area. Meaning you only need to perform a smog inspection for DMV if you are selling the vehicle or the person you purchased it from failed to do so. With that said, the dishonest route would be to claim on your DMV form that the title is being transferred between you and an immediate family member: Parent, Grandparent or Sibling. Making this claim means you will no longer be required to have an inspection done. If the person at the counter says otherwise talk to the next person or a supervisor.(unless you have it registered in a different county)

THIRD:
If it is indeed registered in your county, you are required to have a Two Speed Idle Test. This means they will do a functional on the EGR Valve, Timing, Smoke Test, Evap, Fuel Cap, MIL light operation, Emissions Test and the Visual.

I say this because it will change a little what needs to be focused on. When they sampled your exhaust at the first shop (that I still do not recommend) I assume it was not a full dynamic test. With a TSI inspection your RPM's will be held at 2500 then idled. If this portion fails the analyzer will prompt for the engine to be held at 2500 RPM's again for an extended time to get the cat nice and hot, then perform the same test again.

Doing this warm up if it does indeed fail the first try, could most likely allow you to pass.

FOURTH:
If you want to do repairs prior to anything then I personally would do this: replace plugs and wires, set timing to 5deg BTDC, replace O2 sensor, run a bottle of Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner, and replace the air filter. Also make sure you do not have any vacuum leaks or a torn intake boot. Remove the boot to inspect properly and install tight.

When setting timing make sure you jumper the diagnostic connector and that the engine light is flashing. This makes sure the timing is in base mode and not advanced.

After these have been performed, try the smog inspection and report back. The more expensive repairs need to wait until you have more info.

The next areas of repair/inspection would be fuel control: Air Flow Meter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Injector; proper operation of the Air Injection System (if you have one); then finally the Catalytic Converter.

Of course all of these areas can be tested for proper operation at the shop before replacing. LOTS of shops will just throw parts at it though.

~Paul
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
19
Location
Eastern Sierras, CA
FIRST:
I called them this morning for you and yes they are Star Certified. I also verified this on the BAR website. The lady could have had you drop the truck off this morning. She also has an opening for Monday the 16th.

The reviews are good for this place compared to the other two I you assume you are talking about. They DO offer unlimited retests if they perform the approved repairs. The cost is not out of line considering your area.

I would go there and take care of what you need. They are closer to you and it will be cheaper in gas and time to get this done right and timely.

SECOND:
You are in a change of ownership area. Meaning you only need to perform a smog inspection for DMV if you are selling the vehicle or the person you purchased it from failed to do so. With that said, the dishonest route would be to claim on your DMV form that the title is being transferred between you and an immediate family member: Parent, Grandparent or Sibling. Making this claim means you will no longer be required to have an inspection done. If the person at the counter says otherwise talk to the next person or a supervisor.(unless you have it registered in a different county)

THIRD:
If it is indeed registered in your county, you are required to have a Two Speed Idle Test. This means they will do a functional on the EGR Valve, Timing, Smoke Test, Evap, Fuel Cap, MIL light operation, Emissions Test and the Visual.

I say this because it will change a little what needs to be focused on. When they sampled your exhaust at the first shop (that I still do not recommend) I assume it was not a full dynamic test. With a TSI inspection your RPM's will be held at 2500 then idled. If this portion fails the analyzer will prompt for the engine to be held at 2500 RPM's again for an extended time to get the cat nice and hot, then perform the same test again.

Doing this warm up if it does indeed fail the first try, could most likely allow you to pass.

FOURTH:
If you want to do repairs prior to anything then I personally would do this: replace plugs and wires, set timing to 5deg BTDC, replace O2 sensor, run a bottle of Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner, and replace the air filter. Also make sure you do not have any vacuum leaks or a torn intake boot. Remove the boot to inspect properly and install tight.

When setting timing make sure you jumper the diagnostic connector and that the engine light is flashing. This makes sure the timing is in base mode and not advanced.

After these have been performed, try the smog inspection and report back. The more expensive repairs need to wait until you have more info.

The next areas of repair/inspection would be fuel control: Air Flow Meter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Injector; proper operation of the Air Injection System (if you have one); then finally the Catalytic Converter.

Of course all of these areas can be tested for proper operation at the shop before replacing. LOTS of shops will just throw parts at it though.

~Paul

when ck the timing do I jumper TE and T1?
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
19
Location
Eastern Sierras, CA
Thank you all for your help. I have quite a bit to check before i can think about taking it for a check. I will post when I get the results of the test. Gary
 

doug720

 
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
Messages
3,257
Location
El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
In addition to all these ideas, you may want to go to a hardware of home depot type store and buy a gallon of denatured alcohol.

Just before the test, add this to a 1/4 - 1/3 existing tank of good fresh name brand gas. Go for a fast 20 minute drive to get the engine and cat good and hot. If you can make the engine work hard - ie - going up hills, even better!

This really helps!

But, as soon as you finish the test, go and fill the fuel tank with gas to dilute the denatured alcohol, as its hard on rubber parts.

Good luck.
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
19
Location
Eastern Sierras, CA
OK, here we go. First the ck engine light is NOT ON. I put a paper clip from E1 to TE1. Turned on the ign sw and counted the blinks. This is what I got and it does not make sense to me. 4 2 4 3 5 1. There is about a one to two second between blinks. I looked at the "Diagnostic Trouble Codes and Possible Causes" and am unable to make any sense of it. Anybody have any ideas?
 
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
434
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
Codes should have different length pauses between each one. EG, the 4 would be 4 blinks spaced evenly, then a pause, then 2 blinks spaced evenly. That would be code 42. Then the next code, and so on. Then the code cycle should repeat. I usually go through 3 or more cycles to confirm each code, especially if there is more than 1. I do not have a code 51 in my FSM, but my year and country are different than yours.
 

Mudder

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
2,030
Location
Between states
Both links pappy and I supplied will give you the info for what the codes mean. You have code 42, 43 and 51. Code 51 I'd check the TPS and make sure its adjusted properly. Hopefully others can help with the other two codes as I've not had to deal with them.

Screenshot_20191116-215931_Chrome.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
19
Location
Eastern Sierras, CA
Any luck?I
Have not been able to work on it, too busy and now the snow is flying, so I don't know when I will be able to get to it. I have a lot of working coming up soon.
Thanks for the internist in me getting it going. Will post when I make some progresses on the truck, Gary
PS. Merry Christmas to all!
 
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