Hi-lift jack points and gear: best gear and safe placement on a 40

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Guys,
My 40 as yet has no sliders, stock rear and a custom front bumper. While doing some research on lift points on a 40 for the safe use of a hi lift jack I came accross this thread:

Hi-Lift jack points and adapters - Perth4x4.net Forums

Which talks about the Jack mate:
Hi-Lift Lift-Mate (LM-100) - lift vehicle wheel directly from the wheel | Hi Lift Jack Company

This seems fine for getting a wheel up enough to allow you to get stuff under it and wheel your way out of a problem. Anyone using one? If so what do you guys think about them real world experience?

Again while trawling around looking for safe jacking points on a 40 I came accross this video from the hi lift guys extolling the virtues of the bumper lift:

YouTube - Hi-Lift Bumper-Lift

Hi-Lift Bumper Lift (BL-250) - Equip Your Jack to Lift Curved Bumpers | Hi Lift Jack Company

Again this would work fine on my front bumper but on the still stock rear bumper of my 40 not so sure. Any comments on these products or on safe lift points for a hi lift on a 40 ?

BTW, I am not one of those guys who jacks up his rig on a hi lift then crawls under it to check for an oil leak of trail damage.:rolleyes: If I need to jack my rig up to change tires, The axle getting worked on will be up on jack stands and the other set of wheels will be chocked.
 
Imo there are few occasions where a factory Toyota bottle jack won't do the trick. Hi-Lifts unload all your suspension (which you can bind) but I still go to the factory jack for my #1 option. Hi-Lifts are dangerous when used with jacking points and stable ground, off-road and improvised jacking points and it heads down hill :D
 
I used to have the wheel hooks (lift mate), but as you've mentioned you can't use it to take a wheel off. also, I was unable to use it on the rear wheels of my FJ60 because the drum brakes prevented the hooks from fitting through the holes in my non-stock rims. So I guess the message is to make sure it's going to work for you.

As Kurt points out another problem is the jack height required to actually get any lift. The suspension must be unloaded (unless you put a ratchet strap around the springs to keep the suspension compressed). Plus both the products mentioned require a higher hi-lift tongue height to get the same lift. The higher the tongue, the less stable the jack is.
 
When discussing the Lift Mate, it's actually something that keeps the load on the suspension. Attached to the wheel, you can lift that side of the truck high enough to place cribbing or the bottle jack under the axle so that the tire can then be changed.

True, the bottle jack can do a lot. Here in the Midwest and many other places, though, you'll quickly sink the factory jack out of sight in the mud. The Hi-Lift has its dangers, but it can be nearly indispensable in some situations if used with care.
 
...here in the Midwest and many other places, though, you'll quickly sink the factory jack out of sight in the mud. The Hi-Lift has its dangers, but it can be nearly indispensable in some situations if used with care.

I guess I'm yet to be in that situation :D

I will say I did carry a hi-lift in both rigs for many years until I started using an exhaust jack. If/when the situation isn't up to par for a stock bottle jack the exhaust jack has done the trick, we've used it for quite a few interesting recoveries many of which I feel would have challenged a hi-lift (like lifting the entire back end of a loaded 80 off the ground).
 
Kurt,
Gotta agree that a good bag is one thing that can substitute for a Hi-Lift. Durability is a bit different, so I suspect all the farmers who taught me how to wheel in rusty 2WD pickups back in the late60s/early70s would still buy the Hi-Lift.;p

I, on the other hand, can definitely see the advantages of the bag. That said, I use the jack to help me hitch/unhitch our loaded trailer when on the road. Where the bag would have to go under the tongue is also in the space where the landing leg needs to be extended into. In my case, I need the jack, but wouldn't mind having a bag, too.
 
I have diamond plates on the floor boards with split rubber hose glued to the edges to not scratch the floor. I can take them out and use them as support for the hi-lift or jack stands so they don't sink in the mud.
 
... Hi-Lifts unload all your suspension (which you can bind) ...

A nylon strap between the axle and frame stops drooping suspension and reduces the amount of lift needed. This also make most Hi-Lift situations safer.
 
A nylon strap between the axle and frame stops drooping suspension and reduces the amount of lift needed. This also make most Hi-Lift situations safer.

That would be the binding I'm referring to :D

Word of caution it has to be more than just an 'average' ratchet strap, ie something that can take up to 500+ lbs. I watched a lesser straps ratchet mechanism blow apart with quite a show.
 
That would be the binding I'm referring to :D

Word of caution it has to be more than just an 'average' ratchet strap, ie something that can take up to 500+ lbs. I watched a lesser straps ratchet mechanism blow apart with quite a show.
Gottcha!

I agree about the strap used. I typically don't use a ratchet strap, instead I use a buckle type strap that is intended as a tie down for trailering. In addition to the buckle I wrap the excess around the axle and frame then tie it off with a double half hitch.
 
Gottcha!

I agree about the strap used. I typically don't use a ratchet strap, instead I use a buckle type strap that is intended as a tie down for trailering. In addition to the buckle I wrap the excess around the axle and frame then tie it off with a double half hitch.

That sounds like it would work out nicely. Its on the tip of my tongue but there was a company making a portable limiting strap for the exact purpose we are describing. It might have even been something offered under one of the Hi-Lift brands?
 
That sounds like it would work out nicely. Its on the tip of my tongue but there was a company making a portable limiting strap for the exact purpose we are describing. It might have even been something offered under one of the Hi-Lift brands?
That would be useful. I use the same method when jacking the front of my IFS 100 series LC with the factory jack points. It saves a lot of cranking if you don't have to jack past the wheel droop before you can get the wheel off.
 
save some coin up and get a nice winch.



but i have often been in a place where the hi lift is useless because i cant lift the truck hi enough. and the bastard loves to flip the handle up form time to time. i bought a taller hi lift but since i got a winch i have yet to use it. i guess i use it mostly for looks now???
 
save some coin up and get a nice winch.



but i have often been in a place where the hi lift is useless because i cant lift the truck hi enough. and the bastard loves to flip the handle up form time to time. i bought a taller hi lift but since i got a winch i have yet to use it. i guess i use it mostly for looks now???

Winch is on the rig and in use and so far I haven't been hi centered such that I could'nt back off and change attack angle. So no trail need just yet for the hi lift. this was also about lift points for changing tires if necessary.
 
get off the bunny trails and get to some hard stuff and get stuck would ya


hi lift is useless for changing a tire
 
how many times you changing tires?

im saying my floor jack works better for tires than my hi lift
 
i dont carry a floor jack?

anyway back to the topic

i think its too low to start off you are loosing 6 or so slots to lift from when you get that strapped on your bumper
 
i know it sounds stupid but i have used my winch to change tires i wraped a strap around the tree trunk above a fork and winched the whole dang front end up.....................just being lazy i guess:p
 

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