HF Badlands 12 k DIY winch hack waterproof upgrade mod (1 Viewer)

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Once the two bolts are removed the casing will slide off of the motor like so.....View attachment 1053823

RTV the bottom where the case meets the base plate.....View attachment 1053825

You will need to get creative getting these magnets back where they go. I used several c clamps to hold them back while sliding the case back over the windings....
View attachment 1053827
Would it be possible to only lift it off and inch or so, and RTV around the base, and then lower it back down again without needing to mess with the magnets? or does it want to slide all the way out once it's been unbolted?
 
Would it be possible to only lift it off and inch or so, and RTV around the base, and then lower it back down again without needing to mess with the magnets? or does it want to slide all the way out once it's been unbolted?
Not sure, its been a while since i've done this. Its not a big deal to get them back in there.
 
Would it be possible to only lift it off and inch or so, and RTV around the base, and then lower it back down again without needing to mess with the magnets? or does it want to slide all the way out once it's been unbolted?
They aren't "magnets" they are carbon brushes---
 
It's called a Lance, HELLO!!


Sorry for the movie reference.....



Anyway, great writeup. Time to seal up mine! Thanks Half K, one more thing that I am following your lead on.
 
It's called a Lance, HELLO!!


Sorry for the movie reference.....



Anyway, great writeup. Time to seal up mine! Thanks Half K, one more thing that I am following your lead on.

Hopefully the only thing, don't want any swear words directed at me, see disclaimer ;)
 
Never a swear word toward you! I thank you daily for the temperature gauge!
 
Thought I might show how I kept the magnets compressed. I found a bolt about the right length plus A nut for adjustment to keep two of the magnets out-of-the-way and use my fingers on the other two. So basically with your fingers push two of them opposite each other, compressing the spring, slide in the bolt. Then use your fingers to compress the springs on the other two magnets and as you slide it down over the motor your bolt will just fly across the room. Done. Keep in mind that where the Magnets go is wider than the bearing
image.jpeg
 
Mine is item #61889 and it doesn't have the o-ring at the end of the motor side, had a really hard gasket. But the bolts have an o-ring on them for the outside.

It only has 65' of cable.

image.jpeg
 
i was thinking in buy one of those winches are they really good or just people saying they are bad of off roading

they are fine for 99% of us. They are a bit slow, and need more 'upkeep' compared to some other brands, but will get you unstuck.

This thread has motivated me to get to work on my HF 9k for some sealing up.
 
I also needed to clock the lever forward to miss my lower valance in a Shortbus, I also added the ground bolt change to the control box. Now that it's all sealed up, I can disconnect that and not lose the bolt. Hopefully this will be just an ornament...
 
Great post, still useful! Thanks!
I went for it today. Both replacing the oem grease (with redntacky) and your waterproofing procedure. A few take-aways:
- Regarding waterproofing, you are absolutely right about the "weak link" being the rubber seals at each end of the drum. In fact, after completion I now question whether it is really even worth replacing the oem seals with ultra-black(etc) at the other case locations. Those drum-seals will likely fail long before the other stock case seals, so it seems like wishful thinking to address other case-entries.
Anyway, I followed your lead including very generously caking the entire area around those drum-seals with redntacky.
  • Thanks for the WARNING re cable unspooling! I just unspooled most of the cable pre motor-side dismount and then preventively threw a moving blanket over the drum to tame the release.
  • Unless I'm missing something, the brushes do not have to be an issue at all: you can slide the motor case off just enough (1/2") to run your bead of caulk without the brushes popping-off of the winding.
  • Re the control box, I see somebody already suggested a "dessicant solution ": X2.
In my view, engineering a vacuum solution introduces more points of potential failure vs simply gorilla-taping some dessicant packs inside the sealed box & replacing 'occasionally'.
Dielectric grease coating on all connections= Yes!

Thanks Again for taking the time & effort to lead!
 
I bit the bullet on the Badlands 12k today. parking lot sale had them down to 289.99 and I used an additional 20% off out the door for 231.99 plus tax.
@half k cruiser Thanks for the write up.
People in this forum have referenced Shell Aeroshell 33 grease. That stuff is available in smaller quantities as gun grease on Amazon. I think Warn recommends it.
How different are the various versions of RTV type sealant out there? Would Toyotas fipg work for sealing the winch?
 
Ok, I tackled the procedure outlined above today. Winch not mounted in truck yet, but all "clocking" and waterproofing are complete.
It seems that small updates are made to these from time to time. My planetary side had the paper gaskets, my motor side had thin rubber ones that were already a bit stiff. All of my little bolts inside are black, and overall my winch is black, and not the gray I've seen before.
For the motor side, If you still have the long applicator on your gasket material (I used Permatex Ultra black), you only need to slide the motor case out about an inch. this keeps 50% of the brushes in contact with the arbor and no need to mess with them and allows one to put down a pretty good bead of sealant.
A note about the cable and the springs for the cable tension arm. I used a forest of zip ties thinking this would prevent un-spooling and other nastiness. It did not. I get the joy of installing a winch with a completely unspooled cable.
I watched most of the above youtube video, and mine was pretty well packed with a dark grease as well. I left mine alone, and simply cleaned and supplemented as needed.
 
I went to mount my winch today. The engine compartment of my '94 is still basically stock (single battery on drivers side) How has everyone mounted that odd circuit breaker that ships with the winch? There isn't very much room at the curved corner of battery tray at the positive side.
That was my stumbling block I hit last night as it was getting dark.
 
What is the best way to reinstall the springs and cable tensioner on the Badland winch? Have tried all I know and it has to be more simple. Searched Mud and internet and found nothing. Suggestions anyone? Techs at Harbor Freight weren't much help.
 
I think I strapped the bars together or something. I goofed and let a bunch of wire unspool. I ended up mounting mine and then the test run was re-spooling the cable. Good times.
 
This is the thread for HF winch info. Thanks. I got one of these at black Friday for 250 with a 10% coupon.
I ordered some RR spacers and will be installing in my ARB as soon as they get here with your help.

Thanks again
 
@jemsec You must have sorted this out by now, right?
 
Brake spring tool did the trick. Added it to the long list of purchased tools that will never be used again. Ha Ha!
 

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