There's no reason to do the block off plates if you don't have stuck valves. Here's my experience and information I've gathered:
For those of you who own or are considering a 2005+ GX470 or later year 4th gen 4Runner with the revised V8, I would strongly suggest buying a $45 secondary air injection pump bypass from Jeff Cole
jeffcole75@gmail.com While his bypass is a simple product, his instructions are great and he includes zip ties, velcro and wire connectors to make it pretty damn close to plug n play.
A few months ago I started to hear a shop vac type sound coming from the engine compartment on cold starts. I knew it was a pump, but I figured it was tied to the suspension air pump and I missed pulling a fuse when I switched to coilovers. I only drive the truck about 4 miles every day during the week so I never paid it much attention. Last week the mild shop vac sound turned into a high pitched dentist drill sound so I decided it was time to look into it. Since it's pretty warm in NY now, it would only last for 30 seconds and the pump would turn off. After some further research, it was definitely my secondary air injection pump that was going bad, and since I had the high pitched noise it was going bad quickly. While pump failure is a problem, the bigger problem is the valves within the air injection system getting stuck open. Luckily up to this point I just had a failing pump, so CEL or limp mode yet.
So I order the bypass and roll the dice driving the car 4 miles each day, hoping the valves don't get stuck.
What happens the morning the bypass is to be delivered? CEL code P2440, Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1, and limp mode. So now a potential worst case scenario has happened, with the valve stuck in the open position I can't just install the bypass. Limp the truck to the train station on back roads, leave it to deal with after work.
Jeff was able to give me the following directions to get the valve to close:
1 - Turn the truck on, let it warm up to full operating temp
2 - clear the CEL (with OBD box or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes)
3 - turn the truck off
4 - turn the truck back on and since the coolant is still at operating temp, the SAIP will not try to kick on and it will try to close the valve
5 - drive the truck to check the valve is closed, if it's closed the CEL will not come back and you will not go into limp mode
6 - if the valve is closed and CEL doesn't return, park the truck and do NOT turn it back on until you install the bypass
7 - if the valve is open and the CEL returns, go through the above steps again
From what I understand, as long as you don't go for a long time with a failing SAIP system, you should be able to get the valves to close with the above. It only took me 1 try to get the valve to close, so it worked perfectly for me. That said, if you have a situation where the valves just wont close, you may need block off plates or to take the valve block apart and do it manually (huge pita).
Apparently Toyota knows this system is a problem and if you want to replace it because of emission problems (I'm looking at you California), it's a $4k job at the dealer since you have to remove the intake manifold.