Hewitt Technologies - SAIS Bypass (1 Viewer)

[bdobyns]

That is awesome, what year do you have? Hewitt is very helpful. After installing the Gen 2, things cleared up, however I am getting another error code, annoying CEL but it isn't putting me in limp mode. I used the connectors on the wires, but have since removed them and soldered...still getting CEL. Need to figure this out, hopefully this week if I can find the time. Oddly, the reader i have is not saying fault but rather pending fault, whatever that means.

 

[billmc]

That is awesome, what year do you have? Hewitt is very helpful. After installing the Gen 2, things cleared up, however I am getting another error code, annoying CEL but it isn't putting me in limp mode. I used the connectors on the wires, but have since removed them and soldered...still getting CEL. Need to figure this out, hopefully this week if I can find the time. Oddly, the reader i have is not saying fault but rather pending fault, whatever that means.

Mine’s a 2008. I only drove about 4 miles yesterday so it was probably a bit too soon to declare victory, especially about the drive solenoid. I’ll look into what’s involved with replacing that. What indicates that you’re in limp mode or not?

 

[hewitttech]

Mine’s a 2008. I only drove about 4 miles yesterday so it was probably a bit too soon to declare victory, especially about the drive solenoid. I’ll look into what’s involved with replacing that. What indicates that you’re in limp mode or not?

That is awesome, what year do you have? Hewitt is very helpful. After installing the Gen 2, things cleared up, however I am getting another error code, annoying CEL but it isn't putting me in limp mode. I used the connectors on the wires, but have since removed them and soldered...still getting CEL. Need to figure this out, hopefully this week if I can find the time. Oddly, the reader i have is not saying fault but rather pending fault, whatever that means.

This should likely apply to the both of you. If you can get the codes read and let us know what they are. For everyone's general information those wire connections at the ECM are critical for the Gen2-3V kit to work correctly. We highly recommend soldering in the instructions even though I am still running the scotchloks on my 05 GX with no problems for over a year. I thouroughly tested them for connection quality and resistance before including them to make it easier for people to install. We do highly recommend soldering the connections if you can do it properly. Both connection methods can still cause problems if not done correctly. Pretty much though, making sure the excess wire is trimmed of and really good solder connections have fixed all issues with Gen2-3V codes after initial install. Most common would be a P2445 Pump Stuck Off code. Any extra resistance in the connections won't let the module properly manipulate the values. The scotchlok connectors work really well but you still have to be careful with those and can still sometimes introduce a tad more resistance if they are not perfect. Dielectric is a good idea to keep water and moisture out but in the location of the connections it is not needed. If you get water in that area you will have bigger problems than the secondary air to worry about. (Dielectric grease is actually an insulator so you have poor connections it can actually make it worse.)
Either way give us a call Toll Free with your code(s) and we can confirm the next steps to get it taken care of for you. Pictures of your bare connections, the wires that are connected and so we can see them and the pins/wires they connect to are very helpful and you can email those to our support@hewitt-tech.com address with your situation and codes as well.

 

[billmc]

This should likely apply to the both of you. If you can get the codes read and let us know what they are. For everyone's general information those wire connections at the ECM are critical for the Gen2-3V kit to work correctly. We highly recommend soldering in the instructions even though I am still running the scotchloks on my 05 GX with no problems for over a year. I thouroughly tested them for connection quality and resistance before including them to make it easier for people to install. We do highly recommend soldering the connections if you can do it properly. Both connection methods can still cause problems if not done correctly. Pretty much though, making sure the excess wire is trimmed of and really good solder connections have fixed all issues with Gen2-3V codes after initial install. Most common would be a P2445 Pump Stuck Off code. Any extra resistance in the connections won't let the module properly manipulate the values. The scotchlok connectors work really well but you still have to be careful with those and can still sometimes introduce a tad more resistance if they are not perfect. Dielectric is a good idea to keep water and moisture out but in the location of the connections it is not needed. If you get water in that area you will have bigger problems than the secondary air to worry about. (Dielectric grease is actually an insulator so you have poor connections it can actually make it worse.)
Either way give us a call Toll Free with your code(s) and we can confirm the next steps to get it taken care of for you. Pictures of your bare connections, the wires that are connected and so we can see them and the pins/wires they connect to are very helpful and you can email those to our support@hewitt-tech.com address with your situation and codes as well.

I just went and checked, found only one code: P0430 (both pending and stored). I haven't seen that one before I assume it's O2 sensor related. I don't know when I'll get to take pictures of the the connections since the glove box is back in place, but I'm sure the wires have been correctly done (ie, the blue green and brown wires have be joined to the correct ECU wires). Thanks again for your help.

 

[hewitttech]

Mine’s a 2008. I only drove about 4 miles yesterday so it was probably a bit too soon to declare victory, especially about the drive solenoid. I’ll look into what’s involved with replacing that. What indicates that you’re in limp mode or not?

I would likely try a drain and fill with new filter and the spec'd fluid first too. I now only use Toyota WS if called for as it has fixed every transmission issue I have had on a couple of my 05's. If it was an acutal solenoid circuit fault I would look directly into the transmission harness connection to the transmission and then the actual solenoid next. However, your P0894 is Transmission Component Slipping and the P2714 is a Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performance (Shift Solenoid Valve SLT) code. Worst case you change the fluid first and if it still has problems you can drain and collect the fresh/clean fluid and reuse after you drop the pan to check out the solenoid.
If the codes are still secondary air like I said Give us a call.

 

[billmc]

I would likely try a drain and fill with new filter and the spec'd fluid first too. I now only use Toyota WS if called for as it has fixed every transmission issue I have had on a couple of my 05's. If it was an acutal solenoid circuit fault I would look directly into the transmission harness connection to the transmission and then the actual solenoid next. However, your P0894 is Transmission Component Slipping and the P2714 is a Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performance (Shift Solenoid Valve SLT) code. Worst case you change the fluid first and if it still has problems you can drain and collect the fresh/clean fluid and reuse after you drop the pan to check out the solenoid.
If the codes are still secondary air like I said Give us a call.

Thanks, I'll pop out to Toyota and get the tranny fluid. So far no SAIS codes, fingers crossed.

 

[M3gilly]

This is such a great thread! I ordered my Hewitt SAIS bypass unit back in May and went to install it this past weekend (I coach multiple little league baseball teams and the season and games finally ended). Unfortunately, Saturday morning I threw a brand new code (P0418). Thrilled with this news, I went to this thread and started reading again to educate myself. Now it sounds like I need a Pump Proxy Pack (PPP). Guess I would have been better off buying the Gen II option that comes with the PPP.

...Double Facepalm

 

[hewitttech]

This is such a great thread! I ordered my Hewitt SAIS bypass unit back in May and went to install it this past weekend (I coach multiple little league baseball teams and the season and games finally ended). Unfortunately, Saturday morning I threw a brand new code (P0418). Thrilled with this news, I went to this thread and started reading again to educate myself. Now it sounds like I need a Pump Proxy Pack (PPP). Guess I would have been better off buying the Gen II option that comes with the PPP.

...Double Facepalm

It happens. Just to clarify, the Gen1 kits use the PPP addons to take care of the p0418/419 codes. The Gen2 kits do not need the PPP as they can take carenof and prevent those two codes by themselves. We do have Gen1 kits that are have a PPP combined with them. Often waiting to install a bypass kit will end up burning out the motor or damaging pressure sensors. Both are more expensive to take care of with the bypass kits.

 

[M3gilly]

Yeah, I purchased the Gen1 (sku V3647H) for my 06 TLC, not the Gen2. Looks like I should have just bought the V3647HPPP. Thanks for the quick reply! I will be reaching out to your website soon. Cheer!

 

[beejay12]

I am so glad I found this thread and Hewitt. I just installed my bypass in my 07 gx470 this past week. I had the air pump and valves stuck closed codes. After the install, I cleared my codes and after 3 cold starts I have had no codes return. But here is my issue. I have been spraying the studs for the block-off plates all week with PB in preparation to install them this weekend when I had access to heavy duty jacks and stands. The driver’s side front nut on the stud loosened with no problem. But the rear nut was a different story. I guess I wasn’t able to soak it with enough PB because of its difficult access. With barely any torque, SNAP! The nut snapped right off. Now I’m scared to do the passenger side even though those don’t look nearly as corroded. Does anyone know if these bolts can be removed out of the back side without having to extract it? And then just replaced with a stainless bolt of the same size? That exact bolt/stud is discontinued I believe. Even though I think I will be ok without the plates for now because my valves were stuck closed, I’d still like to put the plates in for peace of mind.

 

[wally05gx470]

I bought this by pass few years ago when the truck went into limo mode, I did the scan tool code reset every morning to get out of limo mode while I figured out what to do. I bought this by pass and it worked as it should. Until It came time for California smog inspection and it failed as it will make you fail I’m not just California but New York and other states as well. The system is for smog prevention and unless your smog inspector doesn’t care and doesn’t look he will fail you. To pass smog you must take out the block off plates if you have them because you can see the ears sticking out and most know about the by pass because it’s every Toyota v8 for a 10 year span almost . Don’t get me started on that. So I failed smog check and then started to price parts to do the actual repair until I found a knock off by pass made by a memeber of this site and others by name of sly fox and he sold it on these sites .It was had less components but still you fail smog if found . I then went back to posts from 02 when this problem first started and found a engineer who spent months to figure out how to by pass this system. He figured out you can use a symbol relay with a resister soldered across two pins and then the mass sensor wires but you can run the wires up the original harness, through the fire wall and have modified relay under the dash.So I got the $5 dollar relay and the $2 dollar pack of resisters, took out the Hewitt bypass and ran the new wires up the harness cutting the harness wrap underneath and was able to make this thing undetectable by anyone looking 100%. I even went back to same smog check guy because re check is free so he knew I failed before for the by pass and trust me he looked hard. long story short , this by pass will fail smog inspection in California and few other states, this by pass can be made for under $10 dollars and last I have a Hewitt by pass I’ll sell for half price lol if someone wants it. I did keep the block off plates and do use them, I just took out for inspection and put back in after. They don’t cause check engine light. Disconnecting by pass for smog check only will cause check engine light then you have to do the drive cycle first so It can’t be done that way.

 

[hewitttech]

I bought this by pass few years ago when the truck went into limo mode, I did the scan tool code reset every morning to get out of limo mode while I figured out what to do. I bought this by pass and it worked as it should. Until It came time for California smog inspection and it failed as it will make you fail I’m not just California but New York and other states as well. The system is for smog prevention and unless your smog inspector doesn’t care and doesn’t look he will fail you. To pass smog you must take out the block off plates if you have them because you can see the ears sticking out and most know about the by pass because it’s every Toyota v8 for a 10 year span almost . Don’t get me started on that. So I failed smog check and then started to price parts to do the actual repair until I found a knock off by pass made by a memeber of this site and others by name of sly fox and he sold it on these sites .It was had less components but still you fail smog if found . I then went back to posts from 02 when this problem first started and found a engineer who spent months to figure out how to by pass this system. He figured out you can use a symbol relay with a resister soldered across two pins and then the mass sensor wires but you can run the wires up the original harness, through the fire wall and have modified relay under the dash.So I got the $5 dollar relay and the $2 dollar pack of resisters, took out the Hewitt bypass and ran the new wires up the harness cutting the harness wrap underneath and was able to make this thing undetectable by anyone looking 100%. I even went back to same smog check guy because re check is free so he knew I failed before for the by pass and trust me he looked hard. long story short , this by pass will fail smog inspection in California and few other states, this by pass can be made for under $10 dollars and last I have a Hewitt by pass I’ll sell for half price lol if someone wants it. I did keep the block off plates and do use them, I just took out for inspection and put back in after. They don’t cause check engine light. Disconnecting by pass for smog check only will cause check engine light then you have to do the drive cycle first so It can’t be done that way.

Yes, you will fail smog in CA for any visible modifications under the hood and we would have been glad to answer any question you had about this before purchase. They know what they are looking for in a visual inspection including anything plugged into the MAF, ECT or stuck to the side of the intake etc... Unfortunately, It sounds like you did a lot more than you needed to and we would have been glad to help you with this if you gave us a call.
With a V36H kit on your 05'-07, all you would have needed to do is start the engine in the morning, warm it up and then remove the bypass module before driving to the inspection. The module would have prevented the system from running on your cold soak startup. As long as you don't have any trouble codes/CEL and if you needed to remove the plates you could have done that too as long as you don't get valve stuck open codes without the plates. With all of our Gen1 kits, the emissions monitor for the SAIS will show as incomplete/not ready but as long as there are no other issues it will still except for a visual if they see it.
It is easy to wire one of our V36 kits into the ECM to avoid the visual portion which is likely all you would have needed to do.

As far as your home made kit they can and do work for some people, mostly the earlier 05 vehicles with but it really depends on your codes. They are very limited in what they can do. We sell plenty of kits to those that have tried your home brew method unsuccessfully. I can assure you our kits are certainly not as simple as what you tried.
However, I am glad you found something that worked for you, CA is particularly ridiculous but like most of the country we don't have smog issues either.
Just to clarify so no one else wastes their time with the solution you have suggested, it will absolutely not work on any 2008 or newer vehicle.
There are differences in how the system operates and certain tests run on those vehicles.

Our best solution and recommendation for people in your situation are our Gen2 units. These are light years ahead of our older Gen1 kits and function completely differently. They look like and replace the factory air injection control drivers to actually emulate the system instead of just stopping it from running. Because the Gen2 units emulate the system, the emissions monitor will even show as complete/ready which makes it even easier to pass because all the monitors will show as ready. There are no connections to the MAF or ECT and there is no starter relay wire triggering or anything like that to see in the visual inspection. One of the best advantages of the Gen2 kits is that they can take care of almost all the other codes that the Gen1 kits would still need kit add-ons for. For the majority of the 4.7L vehicles these are our Gen2-3V version of the Gen2. It is 80% plug and play but unlike our Gen2 kit for other vehicles it does require an additional 3 wires to be taped in at the ECM.
They are certainly more expensive that the other solutions but if you are ever interested in the best solution available you can find our Gen2 kits: Hewitt Tech Gen2 Bypass kits.
If anyone has any questions about any of our kits before or after purchase/installation please contact us direct by phone or email.
Paul

 

[hewitttech]

I am so glad I found this thread and Hewitt. I just installed my bypass in my 07 gx470 this past week. I had the air pump and valves stuck closed codes. After the install, I cleared my codes and after 3 cold starts I have had no codes return. But here is my issue. I have been spraying the studs for the block-off plates all week with PB in preparation to install them this weekend when I had access to heavy duty jacks and stands. The driver’s side front nut on the stud loosened with no problem. But the rear nut was a different story. I guess I wasn’t able to soak it with enough PB because of its difficult access. With barely any torque, SNAP! The nut snapped right off. Now I’m scared to do the passenger side even though those don’t look nearly as corroded. Does anyone know if these bolts can be removed out of the back side without having to extract it? And then just replaced with a stainless bolt of the same size? That exact bolt/stud is discontinued I believe. Even though I think I will be ok without the plates for now because my valves were stuck closed, I’d still like to put the plates in for peace of mind.

We always hate hearing this. Unless you want to take the manifold off unfortunately there is no real easy way to repair it. The proper repair would be for this which would be to extract the stud but that is likely not worth even trying. Next best would be to drill it out and re-tap for a larger replacement stud or simply use a nut and bolt through it, that is also no easy as stainless is hard and the area to work with is limited without something like a 90degree drill to get in there.
If you are not experiencing an exhaust leak it may be fine to leave it as is, I do not like that option and it nag at me. The plate is recommended but if the valve started to leak later on you would for sure need to get the plate installed at that point.
If your GX was like my 05 then the manifold tick was driving me crazy too so I installed my block off plates when I replaced the manifolds with headers.
One option we have recommended which works is to use or modify what is called a 1/4" beam clamp to fit over the ends of the flange to clamp it together.

Before you attempt any of the other bolts, make sure you still soak them with penetrating fluid but really get in there with a wire brush and clean the exposed threads off super well. A lot of the times it is just the crud on the threads that will prevent the nut from coming off without twisting the stud. Or a nut splitter or dremel type tool could be used to remove the steel nut. The should have used stainless nuts on the stainless studs but unfortunately it is what it is sometimes.

 

[Postman454]

The Gen-I units only prevent the system from running. They can only address mechanical codes like the valves stuck open/closed and pump stuck off codes by themselves. For the electrical fault codes or those caused be damaged pressure sensors they need extra kit add-ons. The Gen-I V36H kits for the 05'-07' vehicles connect to the MAF/IAT and the the Gen-I V54H kits for the 08'-12' vehicles have additional connections to the ECT sensor. The Gen-I units all use a starter relay sense wire to trigger the module whenever you start the engine to make sure the unit prevents the system from running. As an example of codes that Gen-I kits need kit addons for; codes like P0418 and P0419 for bad air pump motors or damaged air injection control drivers would require a kit addon called a Pump Proxy Pack (PPP $155) and every once in a while a new air injection control driver. Because the Gen-I kits only prevent the system from running it is still possible to get electrical fault codes in the system later on and need kit add-ons at that point, the most common is the P0418/0419 codes because water settles in the pump motor and corrodes them out of spec.

The Gen-II units are completely stand alone and emulate the entire system by replacing the factory air injection control driver(s) and connect to the pressure sensor(s). There is no connection to the MAF/IAT, ECT and no starter relay sense wire to clutter the engine bay. On a GX/LX/LC 470 this is done with the GenII-3V which also connects to the two VSV harnesses on the top passenger side of the intake manifold and has a three wire whip that goes directly to the ECM to tap into the pressure sensor (there no way to make it plug and play without pulling the intake manifold).
The Gen-II kits can take care of ALL of the codes mechanical and electrical except those caused by damaged pressure sensor(s). They can take care of the electrical fault codes P0418/0419, P0412/0415 and there is no way to get them later on either. The Gen-II kit also prevents having to replace the factory air injection control drivers with new units or replace the air pump fuses if they are blown. The only kit add-ons we have for the Gen-II kits are pressure sensor replacement add-ons which none of our kits can take care of.

The Gen-II is simply the most comprehensive solution for current trouble codes and the prevention of future codes. It is completely stand alone, looks like a factory part, does not have to manipulate the engine temps, does not have a triggering requirement and will even let the secondary air system's emission monitor show ready/complete.

Both kits include block off plates which are still important parts of the solutions, Free USPS Priority Mail shipping, Limited Lifetime Warranty and full Technical support.
Below is a basic comparison of the two kits that cover most instances of the system failures. There are exceptions where certain codes are caused by damage pressure sensors, wiring or even in an extreme case a damaged ECM. Because there are so many specifics to the system we prefer to talk to our customers to discuss the vehicle and the most effective solutions for them.

View attachment 2560252

I could use some recommendations, we bought a 2006 LX470 130K a few months back and I noticed a SAIS bypass plugged into the MAF the other day that lead me to this post, can you identify this one of the Hewitt devices, maybe an older version? If it is a Hewitt or other manf device, what would the advantages be to going to a Gen I or Gen II vs this older unit? This unit doesn't have the start relay wire. It doesn't appear the block off plates have been installed. Can you tell from the pictures if they are installed? We bought the LX to replace a 4th gen 4runner as our family camping/overlanding and want to make it bullet proof as possible so it wont leave us stranded/limp mode, it doesn't get driven much other than our road trips and camping adventures. I can only remember one cold start since we got it as its in the garage most of the time, when we did have a cold start i got a CEL for one of the O2 sensor(after the converter), which the prior owner replaced one of the two O2 sensors, i cleared that and it has not came back on in a month. No other CEL issues. Let me know your thoughts on what to do to make sure no SAIS issues crop up. Thanks! Cheers

 

[hewitttech]

I could use some recommendations, we bought a 2006 LX470 130K a few months back and I noticed a SAIS bypass plugged into the MAF the other day that lead me to this post, can you identify this one of the Hewitt devices, maybe an older version? If it is a Hewitt or other manf device, what would the advantages be to going to a Gen I or Gen II vs this older unit? This unit doesn't have the start relay wire. It doesn't appear the block off plates have been installed. Can you tell from the pictures if they are installed? We bought the LX to replace a 4th gen 4runner as our family camping/overlanding and want to make it bullet proof as possible so it wont leave us stranded/limp mode, it doesn't get driven much other than our road trips and camping adventures. I can only remember one cold start since we got it as its in the garage most of the time, when we did have a cold start i got a CEL for one of the O2 sensor(after the converter), which the prior owner replaced one of the two O2 sensors, i cleared that and it has not came back on in a month. No other CEL issues. Let me know your thoughts on what to do to make sure no SAIS issues crop up. Thanks! Cheers

View attachment 2854700

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View attachment 2854703

That is not a Hewitt Tech unit. It is a made in China Rutech knockoff unit. I do not see the block off plates installed which are an integral part of our solution. You should have the plates installed as the valves can still leak later and cause problems. The units are not engineered the same as purchasing units which we fully expect to last as long as the vehicle. We do sell a lot of replacements to the knockoff buyers but that doesn't necessarily mean you will have problems either.. we have better solutions with our Gen2 units which are our most comprehensive for the codes they cover but our Gen1 V36H are sometimes all that is needed, particularly for the older 4.7l vehicles but it depends. If you ever do have any problems justvgive us a call and we would be glad to help. Hewitt-tech.com Toll Free 844-307-7671

 

[Gx460sd]

Hi, I'm interested in purchasing a kit for a 2011 GX460. Is there a current coupon available?

 

[hewitttech]

Hi, I'm interested in purchasing a kit for a 2011 GX460. Is there a current coupon available?

You can use ih8mud10 for 10% off a Gen1 kit. However, I would recommend the Gen2 kit for anything 2008 and newer instead of our current Gen1 kits. The Gen2 kit is simply a much better solution. Unfortunately, their cost to produce is continuing to increasing much more rapidly than the Gen1 kits and we will be forced to increase their price in the next couple of months.

 

[GXBoss302]

So I posted this in the wrong forum - 100 series because that thread was the first and best i found dealing with the SAIS issue.

Hello all. This is my first post so don't break out the flame throwers just yet. I wanted to report back on my own repair of a new to me 06GX470 that had the SAIS trouble codes.

I researched online and opted for the Hewitt-Tech Gen2 3 valve kit. I will be providing them with my feedback after installing the kit earlier this week. Codes are cleared but I have 0 miles on the repair.

The wiring side went perfectly smoothly. I may tweak the routing of the wire under the hood and may replace the split loom with a braided sleeve but otherwise, it went fine. I had a friend help with the soldering connections into the ECM harness and he actually handled most of the install.

The only problem we ran into was our own fault. We didn't spray down the DS fitting before we tried breaking the nuts loose to install the block off plates and broke both of those little bolts off. There is no room to get a drill in to drill out the broken bolts, there is not enough room to get a Vice grip in to try to extract the bolts, MAYBE could get a reverse threaded bolt / nut extractor in but we opted for a threaded plug into the end of the air injection tube.

We pushed the tube end that runs up to the valve out of the way enough to put a pipe tap into the end of the air injection tube and tried tapping it. I found a large standard thread bolt and slathered it with JB Weld and screwed it in until it bottomed out. My friend wondered if maybe the bolt we used was forcing threaded into the thin metal of the air injection tube - he thought he could tell that the pipe was bulging ever so slightly. It may not have even been necessary to tap the threads in; we maybe could have gotten by with threading the bolt in. I didn't have a selection of pipe plugs in standard and metric to try so we just used a bolt big enough to fill the hole.

While we were pondering how to plug or cap the air injection tube hole we fished a bore scope into the end and by golly it looked like it was threaded from the factory. We couldn't be sure but it made me wonder if the factory had used these manifolds on rigs that didn't have the SAIS system and maybe built those rigs with plugs in the tubes. I've seen this done on certain Fords.

Does anyone have a loose SAIS manifold laying around that they could experiment on? We tapped it for a standard thread and used a large standard thread bolt but obviously it's probably a metric. Check and see if the injection tube inlet end is threaded internally and what size threads. This might be an even cleaner block off option than using plates...although obviously using the plates is more stealthy if that was a concern for someone.

For the PS, I sprayed with PB Blaster and left it overnight. Those nuts came lose just fine and i installed the plate per the directions from Hewitt-Tech.

Thanks for the awesome forum and I'm looking forward to learning and contributing.

Nate

 

[bdobyns]

So I posted this in the wrong forum - 100 series because that thread was the first and best i found dealing with the SAIS issue.

Hello all. This is my first post so don't break out the flame throwers just yet. I wanted to report back on my own repair of a new to me 06GX470 that had the SAIS trouble codes.

I researched online and opted for the Hewitt-Tech Gen2 3 valve kit. I will be providing them with my feedback after installing the kit earlier this week. Codes are cleared but I have 0 miles on the repair.

The wiring side went perfectly smoothly. I may tweak the routing of the wire under the hood and may replace the split loom with a braided sleeve but otherwise, it went fine. I had a friend help with the soldering connections into the ECM harness and he actually handled most of the install.

The only problem we ran into was our own fault. We didn't spray down the DS fitting before we tried breaking the nuts loose to install the block off plates and broke both of those little bolts off. There is no room to get a drill in to drill out the broken bolts, there is not enough room to get a Vice grip in to try to extract the bolts, MAYBE could get a reverse threaded bolt / nut extractor in but we opted for a threaded plug into the end of the air injection tube.

We pushed the tube end that runs up to the valve out of the way enough to put a pipe tap into the end of the air injection tube and tried tapping it. I found a large standard thread bolt and slathered it with JB Weld and screwed it in until it bottomed out. My friend wondered if maybe the bolt we used was forcing threaded into the thin metal of the air injection tube - he thought he could tell that the pipe was bulging ever so slightly. It may not have even been necessary to tap the threads in; we maybe could have gotten by with threading the bolt in. I didn't have a selection of pipe plugs in standard and metric to try so we just used a bolt big enough to fill the hole.

While we were pondering how to plug or cap the air injection tube hole we fished a bore scope into the end and by golly it looked like it was threaded from the factory. We couldn't be sure but it made me wonder if the factory had used these manifolds on rigs that didn't have the SAIS system and maybe built those rigs with plugs in the tubes. I've seen this done on certain Fords.

Does anyone have a loose SAIS manifold laying around that they could experiment on? We tapped it for a standard thread and used a large standard thread bolt but obviously it's probably a metric. Check and see if the injection tube inlet end is threaded internally and what size threads. This might be an even cleaner block off option than using plates...although obviously using the plates is more stealthy if that was a concern for someone.

For the PS, I sprayed with PB Blaster and left it overnight. Those nuts came lose just fine and i installed the plate per the directions from Hewitt-Tech.

Thanks for the awesome forum and I'm looking forward to learning and contributing.

Nate

I was able to get one side off with no problem and the other side one of the studs broke. I used a small beam clamp (online or homedepot), added another nut and tightened down. I have had no issues with it. I was thinking of just welding it. My initial goal was to remove the stock manifold and add headers that have the SAIS tube and then just block it again.

 

[hrhine]

So I posted this in the wrong forum - 100 series because that thread was the first and best i found dealing with the SAIS issue.

Hello all. This is my first post so don't break out the flame throwers just yet. I wanted to report back on my own repair of a new to me 06GX470 that had the SAIS trouble codes.

I researched online and opted for the Hewitt-Tech Gen2 3 valve kit. I will be providing them with my feedback after installing the kit earlier this week. Codes are cleared but I have 0 miles on the repair.

The wiring side went perfectly smoothly. I may tweak the routing of the wire under the hood and may replace the split loom with a braided sleeve but otherwise, it went fine. I had a friend help with the soldering connections into the ECM harness and he actually handled most of the install.

The only problem we ran into was our own fault. We didn't spray down the DS fitting before we tried breaking the nuts loose to install the block off plates and broke both of those little bolts off. There is no room to get a drill in to drill out the broken bolts, there is not enough room to get a Vice grip in to try to extract the bolts, MAYBE could get a reverse threaded bolt / nut extractor in but we opted for a threaded plug into the end of the air injection tube.

We pushed the tube end that runs up to the valve out of the way enough to put a pipe tap into the end of the air injection tube and tried tapping it. I found a large standard thread bolt and slathered it with JB Weld and screwed it in until it bottomed out. My friend wondered if maybe the bolt we used was forcing threaded into the thin metal of the air injection tube - he thought he could tell that the pipe was bulging ever so slightly. It may not have even been necessary to tap the threads in; we maybe could have gotten by with threading the bolt in. I didn't have a selection of pipe plugs in standard and metric to try so we just used a bolt big enough to fill the hole.

While we were pondering how to plug or cap the air injection tube hole we fished a bore scope into the end and by golly it looked like it was threaded from the factory. We couldn't be sure but it made me wonder if the factory had used these manifolds on rigs that didn't have the SAIS system and maybe built those rigs with plugs in the tubes. I've seen this done on certain Fords.

Does anyone have a loose SAIS manifold laying around that they could experiment on? We tapped it for a standard thread and used a large standard thread bolt but obviously it's probably a metric. Check and see if the injection tube inlet end is threaded internally and what size threads. This might be an even cleaner block off option than using plates...although obviously using the plates is more stealthy if that was a concern for someone.

For the PS, I sprayed with PB Blaster and left it overnight. Those nuts came lose just fine and i installed the plate per the directions from Hewitt-Tech.

Thanks for the awesome forum and I'm looking forward to learning and contributing.

Nate

Any chance you know what size bolt you used? I'm interested in going this route as well if the pipe is indeed threaded.