Heritage Edition wheel color in Prismatic Powder?
- Thread starter jdhertz11
- Start date
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Are you contemplating powder coating over the black, or will you have the wheel blasted first? My HE wheels' powder coat has a rather rough surface to produce the satin effect. I would think you would have to match the texture as much as the color to get a good side by side match. Maybe you already know that to be Prismatic(?)
bloc
SILVER Star
Use caution powder coating forged wheels. In normal PC processes the curing oven can weaken that type of metal. I’ve read about lower temp options but I’m not sure if that will limit your color choices.
Just something to think about, I read a whole white paper regarding the strength reduction of powder coating forged wheels and it was something like 20% being baked at 400 degrees for JUST 30 minutes. I may have linked the paper in another thread, I don't recall. The factory forged wheels are powder coated as part of the aging (heating process), so the initial powder does not cause any strength degradation.
To avoid outgassing (bubbling in your powder that can look like craters all over the finish), most metals should be prebaked at 400 degrees for an hour. Then at least 30 minutes for the powder. That extra heat time could substantially reduce the strength.
I went though this analysis as I was going the same route as you, and even bought the gold center caps. I ultimately decided to keep the black look with gold center caps, and it looks great (I run these in the winter and RW in the summer/off-roading).
While the wheels are strong, and can probably be fine in a weakened state, I'd prefer extra strength and the safety it provides vs weakening the wheels for a color choice.
If I was going to powder forged alloy wheels, I'd take the risk for getting some outgassing bubbles and skip the prebake, especially on new wheels that likely haven't had exposure to impurities. I'd also be sure to use a coater than has access to UV or low heat curing powder to avoid the possible weakening of the wheels.
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- Thread starter
- #6
Good information and thanks for sharing. Any pictures of the black wheels on your truck?
Here are some pics. I lean towards the RW look, but the black would look better with wider/larger ATs vs the skinny winters.
One pic is mid tire changeover.
- Thread starter
- #8
Looks nice. I messaged the coater to see what his process and temp would be without telling him the right answers. I reached out to Prismatic and they recommended I try the colors below. I ordered the swatches to see how they look.
May want to look at something like CeraKote, they have a bronze that is air cure instead of heat cure like powder coating.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
For aerosol spraying other parts around the vehicle, I found a 95%+ match in Prospector 8-2-7120-00. Not sure if this can translate into a powder or not, but thought I'd mention it.
Looks like you’re on the right path getting some swatches. I have the same set of wheels powder coated.
Ask your coater if they chemically strip the original coating or do they sandblast it off. Unfortunately, the coater I used went too aggressive and lost the details of the “BBS-FORGED”. Long story short, waiting on small claims court to open back up.
Ask your coater if they chemically strip the original coating or do they sandblast it off. Unfortunately, the coater I used went too aggressive and lost the details of the “BBS-FORGED”. Long story short, waiting on small claims court to open back up.
Julian73
SILVER Star
To powder coat you will need to blast off the original paint/coating and others have mentioned the tempering effect of the elevated temperatures, this reduced yield strength of the metal while improving ductility .. will fail by bending rather than fracturing. Powder coat works by electro-bonding to the metal, thus need to get down to base metal, the other choice is wheel is already coated and thus has the durabilityility of powder coating, why not just spray paint the new color?. As to color match, I had my BB undershield trays powered coated to match the Heritage wheels.
Whatever color you go with, prismatic provides a specification sheet with cure temperatures and UV resistance. The specifications do vary a bit.
Off-gassing can occur from solvents used to wipe down/clean the stripped part too. Pre-baking the parts will reduce the possibility of bubbles developing in you powder coat.
Off-gassing can occur from solvents used to wipe down/clean the stripped part too. Pre-baking the parts will reduce the possibility of bubbles developing in you powder coat.
I choose what I think was called CT-Bronze from Prismatic. It will then have a UV stable clear applied.
This is Burnt Bronze on the left, CT Bronze on the right.
I wanted Burnt Bronze but didn’t want the higher curing temp it required (according to my applicator).
This is Burnt Bronze on the left, CT Bronze on the right.
I wanted Burnt Bronze but didn’t want the higher curing temp it required (according to my applicator).
Here is how the CT Bronze turned out. It is definitely darker than the TRD bronze. Darker than I wanted but I’m not going to change it at this time.
If anyone comes across a powder with a lower curing temp that matches the TRD color I hope they share it.
At this point, I think the Highland Bronze above was a better choice.
If anyone comes across a powder with a lower curing temp that matches the TRD color I hope they share it.
At this point, I think the Highland Bronze above was a better choice.
Do you have pic of it mounted on your LC?
