helping friend do hydro assist, using a rod end clevis?

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All the "Kits" Suggest that 6" is the correct length for a Toyota Axle with Typical Hi Steer Arms

Its possible to Tear down the ram and add Spacers to limit the travel of an 8"

i was thinking about this sucker, but id rather have good Quality Rod ends, these look Cheep Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail

Or just getting a kit

I used my stabilizer for measurement for him since he didn't have one. It has 6"s of travel. so 6" ram would work. Also I called him and gave him th part numbers above. thanks for the help guys.
 
I think the 6" ram will be too short.

are not better got it short than longer and broke some stuff at full steering turn . ?
 
I have just checked mine today and using the shock mount as a reference the tie rod travelled very close to 7". It has FJ60 knuckles/steering arms on a 40 axle.
 
Just for reference the steering stops are removed too. Might account for a bit more travel than the 6" mentioned. I don't know if the 40 steering arms are shorter than the 60's either.
 
I hope longs are involved there...
 
With no steering stops and running longfields I think he could break a carrier.

why .. ?

I was thinking with a long cylinder and no steering stops the entire knuckle/king ping bearings can worn out faster ? ( break ? )
 
What is the weak link when running longfields and no steering stops?

I personally have only seen a Birf break when turn hard to the left on a down hill and then trying to back up.

They will bind and break do to the angle. Upgrade to Longfields and put your rig in the same spot. The birf will not break, the axle will not break, the hubs? I think the steering arm studs would be the next to go since that is where the torque is. The birf is still binding.
 
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The problem with no steering stops is that the knuckle itself becomes the limiting factor. Look at the felts and the retaining ring.

hubs are weaker than the pinion (if it is not allowed to wrap) but Longs hub upgrade and running multiple dowel pins on the hubs themselves helps out considerably.

Toy Driveshafts with Toy U joints in them, are amazingly strong for their size..
 
I talked to my neighbor last night. He is good to go and I will be tapping his steering box. AS for longs . . . I seriously don't think he ever wheels hard enough to brake birfs. This is more "something to do" type of thing in his retirement. I decided to order the stuff myself since all the leg work was done. Didn't plan on it, but once I saw the price, figured I could keep it for a winter project.

I'll post some pics of my neighbors rig. you will cry. He bought it new in 66 and still has the black license plates. The black ones are for classic rigs
 
t7oq4n.jpg
My neighbors
There is ZERO rust and Zero body damage.
 
mine and his
11t8m5d.jpg
 
Al is totally stoked to do this. He just got a new lab puppy and he wants to get the stuff done so he can get to places to hunt easir. You have probably seen his 40. Since I did all the work in finding parts, decided to get the stuff for me too. No "" needed.
 
Al is totally stoked to do this. He just got a new lab puppy and he wants to get the stuff done so he can get to places to hunt easir.

Hydro assist won't help that cruiser get into more places.

Lockers/gearing/bigger tires/suspension all will before hydro assist will.

Hydro assit helps when you are bound up in the rocks.

It will most likely get rid of your Wobble problem tho.
 
he has lockers and he has time, money, and the stubborness of a 80 year old man. What the hell, if he wants to do it, who am I to argue? But, I don't want him to get the wrong stuff or not do it right. It also inspired me to do it to and I was not planning on doing it until after I gathered all the stuff.
 

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