- Thread starter
- #41
No. Good thought. I will go try that. I think I have one in the garage.
Help!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mudshack
- Start date
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FrankTorres said:
Perhaps you are omniscient. i don't know how much gas is present, where it is, or much else from the previous statements.
He still hasn't answered the question of which manifold. If he has raw gas seeping out of the exhaust manifold thats a whole different problem than running out on the intake. If it's running out of the intake, then we can stop talking about no spark, EGR, or much else. It is a broken fuel line, bad injector o-ring, bad regulator, etc. In that case, you are right, he needs to stop messing with it and find the fuel leak or take it to someone who can.
FrankTorres said:
Hold on there cowboy. Gumby is trying to help and Mudshack is firing out posts left and right.
FrankTorres said:
Mudshack's 1FZ-FE does not have a CSI so this brilliant idea isn't going to work.
-B-
In fact, in another post we have determined that he has raw gas leaking out of the exhaust manifold at the flange. A power balance test would work fine and tell him which plug is fouled or which injector is stuck open.
Mud - check your oil. Make sure it is not full of fuel. If you are dumping fuel into a cylinder, you can hydrolock your engine and cause some issues. Get those plugs out and get us some more info.
Mud - check your oil. Make sure it is not full of fuel. If you are dumping fuel into a cylinder, you can hydrolock your engine and cause some issues. Get those plugs out and get us some more info.
- Thread starter
- #45
I got the plugs out.
Looked at 3, 4, and 5. (assuming 5 is a good fire). I see no difference in the plugs. I turned the starter over to check for spark, none.
Also. None of the plugs or the holes have oil in them. So they are not drowned.
I am about to head out and buy new plugs (these look original) and wires. See if that makes a difference.
How do you do a power balance test? As much as I am green. I really want to learn. And start doing these things myself. When I was back in PA, I had friends that would come over to help me along the learning curve. Now that I am in TX. I am alone with you all.
Looked at 3, 4, and 5. (assuming 5 is a good fire). I see no difference in the plugs. I turned the starter over to check for spark, none.
Also. None of the plugs or the holes have oil in them. So they are not drowned.
I am about to head out and buy new plugs (these look original) and wires. See if that makes a difference.
How do you do a power balance test? As much as I am green. I really want to learn. And start doing these things myself. When I was back in PA, I had friends that would come over to help me along the learning curve. Now that I am in TX. I am alone with you all.
Bad coil? If you need the wires/cap/rotor, call my cell phone - I've email you my cell phone info.
- Thread starter
- #47
97 FZJ80 said:
Email me at mudshack@earthlink.net I am at home today working on the truck. The email addy I gave you yesterday was for work.
Cap and rotor look ok. Little black at the contact points, but nothing stands out.
New plugs won't hurt anything as these look old. Just trying to rule out one thing at a time. ya know? And I really only have today to bang through it.
Mudshack's 1FZ-FE does not have a CSI so this brilliant idea isn't going to work.
One day I'll have a 1FZ-FE
3FE POWA
One day I'll have a 1FZ-FE
3FE POWA
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #49
#6 plug. How do you guys get #6 out without disconnecting all the hoses?
Mudshack said:
I don't recall the #6 plug to be particularly difficult. Perhaps a picture of the hoses blocking #6?
You can kind of push the hoses to the fire wall just enough to get you SP socket into the #6 hole. It will be tight, but I managed to get it out last week. It helps if you have a very long extension, but not too long becuase of the hood clearance. I think I used an 8" extension.
You might even try to go between the 2 hoses. Pull the closer one toward you and push the back one to the fire wall. They are heater hoses to the cabin. They are probably not easy to remove unless you drain the coolant first.
You might even try to go between the 2 hoses. Pull the closer one toward you and push the back one to the fire wall. They are heater hoses to the cabin. They are probably not easy to remove unless you drain the coolant first.
Careful of the radiator and the plastic fittings if you climb up!!!
I used a socket and extension and pushed the hoses out of the way with the extension. I can't remember but pushing it one way (Towards/away from the cab) made it easy, but the other way was still difficult.
I used a socket and extension and pushed the hoses out of the way with the extension. I can't remember but pushing it one way (Towards/away from the cab) made it easy, but the other way was still difficult.
Mudshack said:
I like to un-bolt the heater valve from the firewall. This allows me to push the hoses back to clear the socket extention without tweaking the vave or the mount.
- Thread starter
- #54
Just pushed them really hard.
Ok - replaced the rotor (severely scored and pitted) and all 6 plugs. Still drips fuel. But rns Much smoother.
New wires get in at 430 CST. Will put them in, and if that doesn't cure the problem....off to the garage it goes. I am not going to mess w/ the injection system all by myself...especially after dark.
Ok - replaced the rotor (severely scored and pitted) and all 6 plugs. Still drips fuel. But rns Much smoother.
New wires get in at 430 CST. Will put them in, and if that doesn't cure the problem....off to the garage it goes. I am not going to mess w/ the injection system all by myself...especially after dark.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
I asked this on Pirate too, no reply: how is replacing rotor, plugs, and plug wires supposed to stop a fuel leak?
TJK
TJK
- Thread starter
- #56
If the 3 and 4 cylinders are not firing, then the fuel will be passed through. So if I get 3 and 4 firing, then the fuel will burn.
Because the error code told me that there was a misfire problem in #3 and #4, I want to get them to fire up. Am I wrong in thinking this? I am just ruling out one thing at a time. All the things before I get to stuck open injectors. Then I will take it to a shop. But I would hate to take it to a shop just to find out it was something I could have fixed.
Because the error code told me that there was a misfire problem in #3 and #4, I want to get them to fire up. Am I wrong in thinking this? I am just ruling out one thing at a time. All the things before I get to stuck open injectors. Then I will take it to a shop. But I would hate to take it to a shop just to find out it was something I could have fixed.
Mudshack,
Do not use aftermarket wires. Toyota only.
-B-
Do not use aftermarket wires. Toyota only.
-B-
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Where are you saying the fuel bypassing those two cylinders is coming out?
TJK
TJK
- Thread starter
- #59
I dont think it is bypassing the two cylinders. I think it is passing through them out the exhaust
- Thread starter
- #60
The update:
Throwing in the towel.
New plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor. Nothing changed.
Well, now there is a lot more white smoke coming out the exhaust. And there seems to be an oily discharge in the condensation coming out the exhaust. A dirty oily discharge. The fluid smells like a fuel/water mix. And I still notice fuel dripping off of the exhaust manifold....but only when running. Still runs rough. So it is still misfireing. In fact it tried to stall while sitting in the driveway.
Throwing in the towel.
New plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor. Nothing changed.
Well, now there is a lot more white smoke coming out the exhaust. And there seems to be an oily discharge in the condensation coming out the exhaust. A dirty oily discharge. The fluid smells like a fuel/water mix. And I still notice fuel dripping off of the exhaust manifold....but only when running. Still runs rough. So it is still misfireing. In fact it tried to stall while sitting in the driveway.
