Help with Weber carb in 77 fj40 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ok. I've been working on the clutch and brakes. Clutch is bled and seems to be working fine.

I went to bleed the brakes however and there is no fluid at any of the wheel cylinders. I started at the rear right wheel (furthest from master cylinder). I could see the rubber line going to the piece mounted on the rear axle (proportioning valve???) flexing as the brake pedal was being pushed, so I know I'm getting pressure to the axle, just not to the wheels. Should I replace the proportioning valve (?) or wheel cylinders? or both? Thanks again for all the help. Excited to get this thing back on the road!
 
Need to check if the wheel cylinders are moving first . If you aren't getting fluid out of the bleeders they are probably plugged with rust and gunk . They can be removed and cleaned with a small drill bit - carefully . Re-install them with a lot of anti-seize .
Sarge
 
Yea, I was able to completely remove the bleeder from every wheel and didn't get a DROP from any of them.

In the top pic, the rubber line (below and to the right of the driveshaft) flexes when the pedal is pushed. Is the part that the rubber line goes to called the proportioning valve? I can't seem to find it on any of the cruiser sites.

How exactly to you clean the bleeder screws with a drill bit?

Should I get new wheel cylinders or should I try to clean bleeders first?

Thanks again for all the help!

2015-03-03 15.42.36.jpg
2015-03-03 15.42.48.jpg
 
the p-valve is fastened to the brake booster under the master cylinder.
cleaning the bleeders is not an issue you need to worry about right now, seeings how you have no fluid behind them.
i would start by disconnecting the hard lines from that junction block bolted on the axle housing you have pictured, to see if you have fluid there. my guess is likely you do not and that the flex line needs replaced.
that junction block is held to the axle housing with the axle housing vent.
 
Alright, you were right brian. Removed rubber line and junction box. Fluid didn't start leaking out until I disconnected the rubber line from steel line. The junction block appears to be all clear. So I'll be ordering new rubber lines for the whole car. Here are some pics....







Also, found my ratchet that went missing back in November, here's where it was hiding haha

 
Ok, got a few updates. Changed all the rubber brake lines (3 in front and 1 in back). I was able to bleed the fluid at all wheels except rear driver side (bad wheel cylinder?).

Also, got the rims back from the metal shop. Had them sand blasted and powdercoated silver. They powdercoated over the balancing weights so I'll have to got back and strip rust and spray paint to clean those areas up, but other than that, I think they came out pretty good.

Before...



After....



And some bad news. The gas filler neck/hose kit I bought already busted! I noticed a huge crack in the rubber and stuck my finger in it and the entire hose just completely split apart!



 
FWIW - The fuel fill hose I used is a 2" ID Goodyear 45 degree, part number #59202 cut to fit....can be seen here ' post #7 & #8 '.

That post was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the hose splitting. CCOT is already sending me another one free of charge. But I'm guessing it's going to be the same piece of crap they sent the first time. So I'll definitely be taking your advice this time! Thanks!
 
Making progress again! My biggest problem is that the brakes are not very effective. At all. I have to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor and then wait for the the vehicle to stop. I've replaced the brake master cylinder and all the rubber lines and bled the hell from all corners. The vacuum booster hose is not connected, but if anything, that should make the pedal stiffer, right?

So we got the new tires on the powdercoated rims. I touched up the areas where the balancing weights were. Luckily, the silver spray paint I used was an exact match, so you can hardly even tell.



My only concern is the front rim on the passenger side appears to be rubbing the caliper. These are the exact rims that came off of the vehicle. And I do not recall there be any spacers. There seems to be a lot more room on the driver side.



Also, Although CCOT sent me a new rubber fuel filler neck, it appeared to be the same crap they sent me in the first place that didn't last 2 months. So I resorted to the old factory



And finally got the first coat of bed liner on!

 
Finally starting to look like a land cruiser again!



Got the gas pedal all hooked up. It required drilling a 1/2 hole in the firewall for the cable and a smaller hole for the upper bolt to mount the accelerator pedal. The mounting holes on the gas pedal had to be drilled out a bit to fit the bolts through. Here's some pics. As you can see the top of the gas pedal was not centered in front of hole I made for cable. So I ended up having to wrap the end of the cable around it. The last pic shows the cable going into the firewall.











I also ended up rethreading every hole for the roll bars and interior. Pretty time consuming but now all the bolts go in nice and smooth which will save a lot of time in the future. There were some pretty cruddy holes.



This was before I put everything back together. I finally got bed liner down on the whole floor pan. I used aircraft remover on the wheel tubs. That stuff is pretty good at eating the paint away. I just spray it on (heavily) and wait 20 minutes and vacuum it up. Pretty toxic stuff though.











 
Last edited:
Also, does anyone know where to find replacement weatherstripping for around the glass of the hardtop?
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom