Help with Weber carb in 77 fj40

[Dylan Heard]

Went out there to drill the holes but wasn't sure which to drill out. Depending on which hole I drill out to fit, the bracket will be sitting either further forward or further rearward than it was from the factory. I just don't want the linkage to bind up or anything. This mechanical linkage is annoying the hell out of me!

Also, should I be re-using this spacer (removed from car when I too Aisin carb out) with the Weber carb? Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Dylan Heard]

...or this spacer?

 

[brian]

you can use the larger or not. it's a heat shield for the carb. if you are in a location were average annual temps remain warm, you may want to think about keeping it in place. more so if you are retaining the oem cast iron exhaust manifold.
with that said never of my two have them, nor have ever demonstrated the need for it.

 

[Pin_Head]

There is no weight for the accelerator pump outlet check ball. There is a spring that looks like a spring from a ball point pen. It goes ball, spring, stopper from bottom to top.

No return line for the Weber.

 

[Dylan Heard]

Depending on whether I use the spacer (the one that's part of the heat shield) or not would affect the mechanical throttle linkage right? I thin I'm just going to go with the cable throttle linkage conversion. However, I worked on other things today

 

[Dylan Heard]

There is no weight for the accelerator pump outlet check ball. There is a spring that looks like a spring from a ball point pen. It goes ball, spring, stopper from bottom to top.

No return line for the Weber.

thanks for the help! One day I may return to rebuilding that aisin. all the parts are all so pretty and clean already!

 

[Dylan Heard]

Ok, so I've been doing mostly prep and painting fort the last couple of weeks. However, the current problem I'm having with my Weber carb is that the primary throttle valve is catching on the adapter plate. This causes the throttle to be hardly cracked open. This is when it is bolted to adapter plate. As soon as I removed the carb from the adapter plate, I was able to open the throttle through its entire range of motion. Here's a pic from Weber's directions for reference. Anyone know what could be causing this? My plan is to file away some of the area around hole in adapter plate under the primary throttle valve.

Also, I finally got fed up enough with the mechanical throttle linkage and ordered this cable...

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24467

and this accelerator pedal..

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24466

 

[sggoat]

I have a weber on my 77. Will send some pics, of the linkage, if it will help--get most of them tomorrow--
A few now--plus some on the Dorman glass fuel filter-way better than OEM--you can see when it gets dirty--
My weber(like yours) does not have a return line. My OEM fuel pump has a single supply line to the carb. In order to not blow the pump diaphragm, I had to install a bypass hose(with an adjustable bleed-off valve) to the fuel tank return. This will be removed when the rebuilt Aisan OEM carb goes back on(it has the return line)

 

[Dylan Heard]

I have a weber on my 77. Will send some pics, of the linkage, if it will help--get most of them tomorrow--
A few now--plus some on the Dorman glass fuel filter-way better than OEM--you can see when it gets dirty--
My weber(like yours) does not have a return line. My OEM fuel pump has a single supply line to the carb. In order to not blow the pump diaphragm, I had to install a bypass hose(with an adjustable bleed-off valve) to the fuel tank return. This will be removed when the rebuilt Aisan OEM carb goes back on(it has the return line)

Very helpful. Thanks! Why are you going back to the Aisin carb?

 

[sggoat]

Want my truck as stock as possible-plus the Aisan is way more responsive, and doesn't boil out the fuel from the bowl when the truck is stopped. Even with headers, the weber is too sensitive to the engine heat, and has hot starting issues. I originally put it on because of advertised fuel economy---not! There is no heat shield, but it wouldn't fit with the weber.
I'm sure WeberSarge will give me a little chastisement for this, but I can't get the 900-1000 rpm stumble tuned out.
(plus, I spent all the time to rebuild the Aisan--{which I thought I couldn't do}, and I don't want to waste that)

 

[Weber Sarge]

Fatten up the primary side idle jet is usually the cure . That's after verification the distributor advance and zero vacuum leaks .
Sarge

 

[Dylan Heard]

So these parts came in the other day. I'll be trying to hook up the cable throttle linkage tonight.

Also, I figured out why the throttle linkage wasn't opening the butterfly valves all the way. Turns out I had the adapter plate on backwards, so that the plug in the adapter plate (for vacuum hose) was keeping throttle linkage from operating correctly.

 

[Dylan Heard]

Ok, so I've already run into another problem. The hole on the firewall do not match up with the bracket on the new gas pedal. Should I just transfer the new pedal to the old bracket? Just from looking at things, it doesn't seem like that would work.

Also, am I correct in assuming that the two bolts at the top of the second picture are to attach the cable to the firewall? If so, I will need to drill out a hole to run the cable through. Does this all sound right to anyone who has converted to a cable type throttle linkage?

Again, thanks for all the help!

 

[brian]

need the stopper yet.
if that pedal is a weber, i bought the same thing years ago and it was junk. the spring was not enough spring for my liking and the material that rod was made of had the same rigidity as a wet noodle. an oem pedal from the earlier 70's is the exact same thing...mine is from a '70.

 

[Dylan Heard]

need the stopper yet.
if that pedal is a weber, i bought the same thing years ago and it was junk. the spring was not enough spring for my liking and the material that rod was made of had the same rigidity as a wet noodle. an oem pedal from the earlier 70's is the exact same thing...mine is from a '70.

Thanks! That pic really helps. So I need to drill new holes to attach the new gas pedal bracket. Your bracket appears to be overlapping the steering column flange. Does this cause any problems. Or did you just remove some of the steering column flanges material to make the gas pedal bracket sit flush.

And I'm guessing mine is a Weber, considering that it doesn't appear to be of the same quality as the original Toyota pedal that I removed. Thanks again

 

[brian]

just need one new hole for the pedal mount and one for the cable to pass through the firewall. pretty i just fastened the pedal to the lower hole, lined it up and blasted the upper hole through everything. no issues with anything. i also like the oem cable. it has barrel nuts on the carb end to adjust cable tension, instead of the dicking with the cable barrel.

 

[Dylan Heard]

Ok. So the weather was in my favor today and I decided to start putting the land cruiser back together. I got the gas tank back in and the gas tank cover back on. After filling it with 2 gallons of gas I tried cranking it. During cranking I noticed that the ballast resistor was SMOKING. It starts smoking as soon as the battery is hooked up. So I disconnected the battery and decided to consult you guys.

Below is a picture of the ballast and how it is hooked up. I have not changed anything with the ignition since the last time the engine started up and ran. Although I've noticed that the coil has been leaking ever since I installed it brand new.

 

[Pin_Head]

Ballast resistors get hot, so they will smoke normally if there is dirt or dust on them. It appears to be properly but rather crudely connected.

 

[Dylan Heard]

Ballast resistors get hot, so they will smoke normally if there is dirt or dust on them. It appears to be properly but rather crudely connected.

haha yes indeed crudely connected. I'll clean it up later. Got the cruiser started and resistor no longer smoking. Thanks for the help pinhead!

My next problem is the evap lines from the gas tank. I don't really remember how everything went together. Specifically, I'm not sure where the off-shoot of the filler neck goes. I'm also not sure where the steel line coming through the floor pan (right under filler neck) goes. Here's a pic

 

[brian]

the three little guys don't matter they end up in the same place. once the tank and separator is in place, the old lines will show you where they went. there is only one place for the vent line to go, it's the one that is just visible in center bottom of the pix. top most port on the sep goes threw the floor.