Help with Weber carb in 77 fj40

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Dylan, the OEM filters are still available from Toyota, but a generic one can be used if you need something easier. The fuel tank comes out when you take out the seat, fuel tank cover plate, disconnect the level sensor wire, disconnect the fuel hoses.

The fuel return line is for the Aisan carb, you will want to plug it or remove it and plug the fitting on the tank if you're set on using the Weber and the Weber doesn't require it.
 
Thanks for all the help. I'm trying to decide on a new gas tank. The polyethylene tanks are way more expensive (and I'm guessing lighter and won't rust). So what would the benefit of the metal "replica" tanks that are available at $400+???
 
Thanks for all the help. I'm trying to decide on a new gas tank. The polyethylene tanks are way more expensive (and I'm guessing lighter and won't rust). So what would the benefit of the metal "replica" tanks that are available at $400+???
Poly tank - $196 (+/-) = 12.5 gallons
Replica steel tank & sending unit - $239 (+/-) = 16.4 gallons
Toyota OEM tank - $327 (+/-) = 16.4 gallons

Toyota OEM Tank: http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/7710060042?search_str=77100-60043
Toyota OEM Sending Unit: http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/8332060050?search_str=83320-60050
 
Sorry. I meant to say that the metal ones are way more expensive. Gonna go with the steel replica and sending unit. Thanks again for the help! I like the idea of plastic but 12 gallons is too small
 
Ok, got the old tank out. Things are looking pretty rusty. Rusted all the way through under the one gas tank pad. I do have a few questions. Where does the factory fuel filter mount? The one on it now (I'm assuming is the plastic thing pictured below is a fuel filter) is zip-tied to another hose.

Also, I'm thinking the fitting on the BOTTOM of the tank is the feed line and the fitting on the SIDE of the tank is the return line (which I will cap off because I'm using the weber carb). Is this right?

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Ok, so I got the car running with the weber but I'm LOST as to how to connect the linkage. The "universal" instructions talk about a throttle CABLE, but all the factory linkage is rods. Pictured below is the Redline linkage kit for the Weber and the factory linkage still connected to the gas pedal.
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take the arm with all holes in it off the carb and replace it with the one in the picture with teh ball end on it.
remove the adapter attached to the short linkage rod(the part leaning on the air injection rail in pic).
attach short linkage rod to freshly added ball adapter on the carb.
 
factory fuel filter is just a little guy that was bracketed off the rear mount of teh battery tray. the original also had threaded ends for hard line connections on both sides. since somebody already cut a generic one in, you might as well keep using them. i just went to the parts house or tractor supply store and picked up a large bodied filter with the ports on opposite ends and the right sizes (0.25" or 0.3125" i don't recall which)
 
Ok, got the old tank out. Things are looking pretty rusty. Rusted all the way through under the one gas tank pad. I do have a few questions. Where does the factory fuel filter mount? The one on it now (I'm assuming is the plastic thing pictured below is a fuel filter) is zip-tied to another hose.

Also, I'm thinking the fitting on the BOTTOM of the tank is the feed line and the fitting on the SIDE of the tank is the return line (which I will cap off because I'm using the weber carb). Is this right?

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FWIW - After some research on good and bad fuel fill lines, I decided to use a 2" ID Goodyear 45 degree, part number #59202, cut to fit. You can take a look at post #7 & #8 on this link for what I did.

Goodness, interesting to see pull tabs in your photo above. Those haven't been on cans since the mid to late 70's. :beer:
 
like this? I had to bend the choke cable bracket up a bit to get the arm with the ball on it on the carb (and it's still rubbing against other linkage)

I know I'm missing something because all my factory linkage is still flopping all around. Thanks for all the help!
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FWIW - After some research on good and bad fuel fill lines, I decided to use a 2" ID Goodyear 45 degree, part number #59202, cut to fit. You can take a look at post #7 & #8 on this link for what I did.

Goodness, interesting to see pull tabs in your photo above. Those haven't been on cans since the mid to late 70's. :beer:

Already ordered the CCOT hose kit
 
like this? I had to bend the choke cable bracket up a bit to get the arm with the ball on it on the carb (and it's still rubbing against other linkage)

I know I'm missing something because all my factory linkage is still flopping all around. Thanks for all the help!View attachment 966362
I think you may have a bracket missing to use the OEM Toyota linkage. It would be part number 78108-90353 for a '77, seen in this link. :meh:

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I think you may have a bracket missing to use the OEM Toyota linkage. It would be part number 78108-90353 for a '77, seen in this link. :meh:

Great! Thanks a lot! This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm sure I have the piece (probably in the box with all the other aisin carb parts). I had taken a bunch of pics of cab and throttle linkage when I took the carb out (specifically for this reason) but it was so long ago I can't dig up the pics. Thanks again
 
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Are any of these the bracket I need to hook up the throttle linkage????View attachment 998397
I believe the one in the top right of the photo is the bracket. It bolts to the two carb studs opposite the valve cover. The other pieces in the photo bolt on an Aisan Carb itself, other than the heather hose bracket just below it.
 
Yes, the one in the top of the previous picture seemed to be the right bracket, but the holes in the bracket do not line up with the holes in the carb. So the bracket does not fit on the studs supplied with the Weber carb. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about.
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This bracket that was supplied with the Weber kit lines up, but the instructions say it is for a throttle CABLE. Should I just convert to a throttle cable setup?
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