Help with replacing rotors!

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Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Threads
7
Messages
67
Location
San Diego, CA
So there I was, no :censor:, getting my state inspection done on the 80 at Rosner Toyota in Stafford. Rejected. I was told that I need:

replace front brake pad - 436.98
replace rear brake pads and rotors - 537.38
repack wheel bearings (due to too much play) - 338.00

She also mentioned doing something to my front rotors but was concerned because they are slotted (resurface:confused:). I have slotted rotors from Disc Brakes Australia on the front.

Obviously I am not going to pay them to do it. However I do get a 10% discount on parts so I am not adverse to buying the parts from them.

This is where I need help, I could get myself in a lot trouble if I were to sit down with the FSM and try to do it by myself. I am willing to drive anywhere if someone is free on a Saturday and has a garage/tools. I will bring the :beer:! If not, MCB Quantico has a hobby shop with lifts and most tools imaginable (no beer though)

I am moving to San Diego March 10 which adds a time constraint. Saturday February 15 would be my ideal day as the :princess: will be house hunting in San Diego but obviously I am very flexible.

Any and all suggestions/comments welcome!

Thanks,

Ryan
 
Those prices look crazy.
I'd think you could go way cheaper for the exact same parts using an online or MUD parts vendor.
I don't have any free time these days so I can't really commit to any day, although I have not done any brake work on an 80 specifically.
Buying new rotors is usually cheaper than resurfacing them unless you have performance rotors.
 
Ryan,

I'm with Sam. Those prices are way out of line.
OK, you have DBA's up front. How old are they? They should be fine, unless there is an issue with your calipers and they have created an uneven pattern. How is your braking? Is it smooth or do you get a "bump" in your pedal or feel like the rotors are warped?

As far as parts, I went with napa organic pads and they worked well on my LX450. If you need rear rotors, I would get my stuff from Beno, he is now at Nalley Toyota in ATL, GA. This is a LINK to his thread with his new contact information.

Wheel bearing grease: Get a tub of decent stuff (valvolene or whatever) that has the same specs as the FSM states and it's only a few more steps to pop off the hub and regrease them.

I have a spare 80 series OEM Birf rebuild kit with the bearings if you find out the bearings need to be replaced. That way you don't have to buy them right away, you can just pay me to replace them if they are needed. At a minimum, you'll need the drive plate (hub) gasket, since those usually tear during disassembly. They are cheap and easily gotten by the dealer.

This job can easily be done in a day with a couple/few guys and a garage.

Come to the meeting this Wednesday and we'll talk about it. This could be a great opportunity for a club Tech day. I'm sure there are a lot of club members who would like to learn how to do this type of job on their own, especially with those kinds of prices.

I will do my best to keep the 15th open... anyone wanna host a tech day?
 
Are they talking about repacking the front bearings or the rears? If it's the front your almost there by the time you do rotors. You just have to pull the seal and repack the bearings. You've got the hub off already to swap the rotor. They must be using some kind of new liquid gold grease
 
Are they talking about repacking the front bearings or the rears? If it's the front your almost there by the time you do rotors. You just have to pull the seal and repack the bearings. You've got the hub off already to swap the rotor. They must be using some kind of new liquid gold grease

Seriously. That, or they just up their labor pricing by 50%, from astronomical to outrageous.
 
I am pretty crazy-busy right now, but I would be willing to help after my schedule clears which would be after 2/17.

If you have any fouled up wheel studs this is the time to replace them since they have to come out with a rotor change.
 
I'm game to assist and could host if need be. If it's nice we can do it outside and if not take you down to 5 psi in your tires and take it in the garage. Do you know the last time the birfs were serviced? Post up a couple pics of your knuckles if you're not sure. x2 on calling Beno (real name Onur) for all your parts needs, even for new rotors if need be. If you do go with new front rotors get the 100 series pads, more surface area than the 80 pads and fit fine on the 80 calipers.
 
....or alternatively, go somewhere else where they won't fail you on all that crap. :D
 
My opinion..

Put EBC green pads front and rear.

Repack front wheel bearings.

Don't put 100 series pads on it!

Take it to another shop for re inspect.
 
My opinion..

Put EBC green pads front and rear.

Repack front wheel bearings.

Don't put 100 series pads on it!

Take it to another shop for re inspect.

EBC greens eh? Any experience with Hawk pads? I've heard good good things about them for Tundras.

...via IH8MUD app
 
I've used EBC pads before (not on my 80 though) and they were extremely dusty. The consensus on 100 series pads is that they last longer than 80 series pads and stop better as well. My personal experience agrees with that. My current 80 doesn't stop near as well on 80 pads as my last 80 did on OEM 100 series pads.

Edit: Any performance brake pad is going to be dusty, its just whether you need that or care about the dust.
 
Sorry for the late response, the :princess: fractured her jaw this weekend but fortunately she will be just fine.

I think Lance sold me on the EBC's green pads at Fall Crawl. Does Iron Pig stock them? I will purchase the rear rotors from the recommended gentleman. The front bearings are the ones that need to be repacked. The birfields, not since I have owned it. I bought it with 122,xxx and it has 186,xxx on it now.

Again, thanks for all the help!
 
Ryan - If you're interested in doing the front axle service at this time you should start collecting parts and supplies now. I think Stump said he had 80 series axle parts but check to see all what parts he has. You'll also need to select and buy grease for the knuckles as well as the bearings. I use Valvoline Palladium for the knuckles and Cerulean for the bearings (Napa). It's also probably a good idea to change out both front and rear diff oil as well as the transfer case oil. Onur has me convinced that the cheapest 90w gear oil is fine since the change interval is 30k miles. I think I got the Advanced Auto brand in gallon jugs the last time I did it. If you haven't already read through the FAQ on the front axle service you should take the hour it'll take and go through it.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq.html

I have all the tools to do this work at my house but I might need a couple extra heavy duty jack stands if we want to tackle the rear brakes at the same time as the front axle. Hopefully we can get a handful of guys together on that Saturday to knock this out in a few hours. Since you said you'll be driving the 80 across country I think this is the right way to go but if you just want to fix the brakes that's cool too.

For the rest of you guys, who else is available to help out on the 15th?
 

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