Help with removing flange cone washers please

[wxm]

I finished packing the driver side knuckle last night. Everying went well and preload was set to 15 lbs. But after let it sit for a night and went back check again somehow the preload became 25 lbs. (Did I read it wrong last night?! ). Anyway, I decided to go in there reset the preload. But had a hard time to take the flange cone washers out. Tap with a brass drift on the head of the studs for almost 20 minutes, only one came out. (Remember it was the hardest part during the first go-around too). Did I missed anything? Or anyone has a good suggestion?

 

[NaterGator]

You can try to tap them on the edge w/ the brass drift, be careful not to slip and distort the studs though.

I just got fed up and beat the hell out of my brass drift with a BFH on the end of the studs and the washers popped off.

 

[wxm]

Thanks NaterGator for the advise. Got them out, I did not realize how hard I had to hit the poor 'little' studs. Now I am going to try to get it right this time.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Put on some hearing protection (seriously - this is a high decibel activity) and bang the heck out of it. I'd have to say it takes about 30 hits per stud sometimes. Be sure to use either a brass hammer or a brass drift. Hit harder than you'd think you need. Just loosen the nuts so when the cone washer lets go it is trapped on the truck versus off in the garage somewhere...

A shot of PB Blaster or similar is very effective on these parts since they're slit. Banging helps get the penetrating oil in, too.

DougM

 

[OGBeno]

I actually don't hit the studs. I loosen the nuts but keep them on and then I pound away on the flange/hub mating area right above each stud. Works like a charm--2 hits and the cone washers are flopping around ready for removal.

 

[Tools R Us]

I actually don't hit the studs. I loosen the nuts but keep them on and then I pound away on the flange/hub mating area right above each stud. Works like a charm--2 hits and the cone washers are flopping around ready for removal.

X2, 'cept I use a strong air hammer with a flat bit, makes way quick work of them.

 

[wxm]

Thanks guys. I did take out by hitting it really hard - did not think the little studs could take that much impact. As it turned out, I might have wasted all the time and effort to open it up again, because my reading today was with the flange on. (See my other post. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/287765-correct-way-check-axle-preload.html)

 

[azrider]

I hit the studs to pop the cone washers off...............once. That dumb idea sent me all over Phoenix trying to gather enough new studs and nuts to finish. Hitting the flange is the only way to go, plus, they pop right out like others have said.

 

[Aussie cruiser]

I actually don't hit the studs. I loosen the nuts but keep them on and then I pound away on the flange/hub mating area right above each stud. Works like a charm--2 hits and the cone washers are flopping around ready for removal.

Works every time. Heaps easier than hitting the studs. A couple of hits and they come flying out,. Good idea to leave the nuts on. Saves time looking for the cone washers.

 

[john_eckels]

Harbor Freight sells a 2lb brass hammer. It's a bit pricey but for me it was well worth it.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[ozfjz80]

I find violence is the only way to go, don't hit the studs though. The most important part as mentioned above LEAVE THE NUTS ON a turn unless you dog is good at sniffing out cone washers around the garage.

 

[nat88toy]

i think the problem is your "Taping" the brass drift get a 5 lb hammer and hit it like a man that the way i do it. with the tire off some times you can hit the side of the flange and they will come off but that doesn't work all the time
oh and might want to put on some safety glasses with a big hammer brass is not fun to get in the old eye socket