Help with a Leaking Diff (1 Viewer)

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Steve and I swapped a third into the front of my truck today and it leaks like a sieve. Anyone have any suggestions as to a good way to fix it that doesn't involve tearing the axle down again?
 
Where is it leaking: from the pinion, where the third mates to the axle, drain plug, ...

You could always pack it with axle grease like the '53 Ford Panel truck I bought for $40. Not a long-term fix hovever.
 
Tear it down and look at the mating surface. It may be scared or not all the old tasked was taken off.
Why the replacement?

Chris
 
I suggest using "Right Stuff" gasket sealer when you reinstall to make sure it won't leak. I had lotrs of trouble with the rear on my 40 due to a peeled back diff cover. Right Stuff fixed me up.

Did you use the cork or paper gasket?
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/506158-leaking-diff-after-third-member-swap.html

Looks like paper gasket and no sealant.


I understand there is also some great debate on how to properly do this too.

paper and/or cork with or without sealant, or some super orange toyota sealant.

What are you doing looking in 60-Series tech?! You have to buy one first Sam ;)

Yeah, paper gasket and no gunk. "The Right Stuff" sounds like the ticket. I picked up some Permatex that was made specifically for gear oil, but you can't beat "The Right Stuff."

I used to watch The Dukes of Hazzard religiously when I was a kid, and Daisy Duke had an incredible talent (other than the ability to really pick a winning wardrobe) - she could rebuild a completely torn down carburetor, blindfolded, quicker than anyone around. I think I'm going to try the axle blindfolded this time.
 
Where is it leaking: from the pinion, where the third mates to the axle, drain plug, ...

You could always pack it with axle grease like the '53 Ford Panel truck I bought for $40. Not a long-term fix hovever.

Pictures of the panel truck, and let's hear the story also.

For the diff, make sure you have torqued the bolts down to try and stop the leak, before tearing into the front end again.
 
it's a learning process...after you tear into it again, you learn that you should throw that paper gasket that was developed 100 years ago into the bushes.

like the old wise Bob said, use the right stuff....prep the surfaces properly and let it set up a bit before putting it on.
 
For the diff, make sure you have torqued the bolts down to try and stop the leak, before tearing into the front end again.

Yeah, we even over-tightened them a tad to try and stop it. No effect.

it's a learning process...after you tear into it again, you learn that you should throw that paper gasket that was developed 100 years ago into the bushes.

like the old wise Bob said, use the right stuff....prep the surfaces properly and let it set up a bit before putting it on.

I always listen to the old wise Bob. :D
 
What are you doing looking in 60-Series tech?.

I like to see how everyone is modifying their truck. The 40s and 60s have a lot of similiar parts and issues. Many useful mods to the interiors are applicable to the first gen 4runners too. I'm everywhere, except the 80 and on section cause their threads are mostly about cupholders and 'how do these wheels look' threads.

I'm also always on the lookout for a 60series too. I've learned to love the 2f and how easily they're repaired with a leatherman.
 
Pictures of the panel truck, and let's hear the story also.

I wish I had pictures of the "Hot Truck". My cousin and I bought it as a camping truck but it would overheat before it went 5 miles. The hood was off when we bought it which added to the character when it back fired through the carb, particularly at night. We painted it camo with house paint, installed a bottle rocket launch tube, added an old Civil Defense air horn, and covered the interior with shag carpet scraps - a real Babe Magnet.
 
Pictures of the panel truck, and let's hear the story also.

I wish I had pictures of the "Hot Truck". My cousin and I bought it as a camping truck but it would overheat before it went 5 miles. The hood was off when we bought it which added to the character when it back fired through the carb, particularly at night. We painted it camo with house paint, installed a bottle rocket launch tube, added an old Civil Defense air horn, and covered the interior with shag carpet scraps - a real Babe Magnet.

Nice!
 
Pictures of the panel truck, and let's hear the story also.

I wish I had pictures of the "Hot Truck". My cousin and I bought it as a camping truck but it would overheat before it went 5 miles. The hood was off when we bought it which added to the character when it back fired through the carb, particularly at night. We painted it camo with house paint, installed a bottle rocket launch tube, added an old Civil Defense air horn, and covered the interior with shag carpet scraps - a real Babe Magnet.

You ought to be thankful for Lyla every day of your life.
 
the right stuff will fix almost any leak!!

what may have happened is when setting the diff into the housing it is real easy to hit the paper gasket and tear it without noticing.

it is also common to not have cleaned all the gear oil out of the diff and when set in the "insert into axle" position some oil will run out and create a path for the oil to continue to leak.

unfortunately you will have to pull the axles out again to seal the diff properly......have fun!
 
... Daisy Duke had an incredible talent (other than the ability to really pick a winning wardrobe)...

Maybe that's your problem, lets see some pics of your winning wardrobe choice!

You could always resort to sawdust, it soaks up that oil real nice, and also muffles the gear noise.:D

Good luck!
 
I thought that's how you keep the gear oil clean. All you need is a catch pan and your good.

Chris
 
Sam, I will sell you my soft cover for your 4runner for 3k and give you my 60 :flipoff2:
 

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