HELP RE: Hurricane Creek July 12-14

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jrmudder92

John R.
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OK here's the deal. I am hoping I can get the cruiser right but I am having one problems with it. The brakes well the front ones they are locking up after the engine is been on like there is to much pressure. I JUST REPLACED the calipers and lines.:bang: And its still doing it :censor: My friend told me to replace the center one. I have order the center brake line and it should be here Monday. But could it be the line that's doing this. So any help would be great so I can go on this trip would be amazing. ALSO the master cylinder and booster is less then year old from when I did my brake over haul and I mean LESS then a YEAR like 3-4 months.
 
OK. So you had this thing towed somewhere right ? Before you had all the work done to it. Look at your brake lines on the axle and see if one was crushed from the chain or whatever was used. Or if it was not towed then still see if your brake line that runs across the axle was crushed. If not that, then check out the proportioning valve that it is working right. I have seen too many front brake lines crushed. If not that then take the front tires off and have someone do the brakes and see if after you hit the brake do the calipers release. If not then there is your culprit. For not just throw money at your truck. If you got extra then just send it my way and I will put it to good use.

Did not get it towed. The proportioning valve is also brand new less then 4 months old i went ahead and replaced that. and the rod is in all the way.
 
Again, please stop just throwing money at this thing. Have you done the other stuff i said ? Do you understand what i was talking about on the rod ? Have you messed with the calipers at all ? If so are they not seating correctly on the pads ? Help me / us on here help you, unless you just got money to burn.

I ONLY replace what need its. And i am just going to go ahead and replace that line because i got it for free
 
I once had an odd brake issue like this on a FJ-40, check all your hard lines. Mine had been pinched when they put it on a lift.... Good luck!
 
How do you know which ones are locking up?? I presume you've got it hot and then tried to free spin all the wheels when they are off the ground.


Is this a brand new thing??? Did it just start after you replaced something or just all of a sudden.

Do you have any of your old calipers you can swap back on just to rule out your new ones aren't bad.

As already said check the rod and the hard lines. check all the lines for any swelling. Bleed them all again if you have any air expanding when it gets hot it could be causing it.
 
How do you know which ones are locking up?? I presume you've got it hot and then tried to free spin all the wheels when they are off the ground. Is this a brand new thing??? Did it just start after you replaced something or just all of a sudden. Do you have any of your old calipers you can swap back on just to rule out your new ones aren't bad. As already said check the rod and the hard lines. check all the lines for any swelling. Bleed them all again if you have any air expanding when it gets hot it could be causing it.

You can smell them and feel the heat and see smoke and it just started outed of the blue. And I put new calipers on because I thought that's what is was but nope and they were still under warranty. So no money. And the peddle is some what hard after driving and warming up

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Have you looked at the hard lines yet ? Is it both fronts ? Have you properly checked the rod attached to the pedal by a FSM ? Give us a list of Everything you have replaced on the brakes in the last 4 months. Answer All these questions please.
 
The symptoms you describe are textbook for the pressure not being allowed back into the master cylinder. It can only be a few things doing that. If you have replaced the booster any time let us know. If the rod that attaches to the brake pedal going to the booster has been messed with by anyone out there this is what happens.
 
Have you looked at the hard lines yet ? Is it both fronts ? Have you properly checked the rod attached to the pedal by a FSM ? Give us a list of Everything you have replaced on the brakes in the last 4 months. Answer All these questions please.

Yes and I can not see anything in the lines will check again. Yes both fronts are dragging but pass side is a bit worse. The rod I have not touched. And as far as ever thing let's see
Calipers, rotors, pads, master cylinder, booster, front rubber hose, lspv the blue box in the rear:/ , rear lines, shoes, new shoes kit, uhh I may be leaving out something but that's all that comes to mind

Sent from my iPhone 5 IOS 7 using IH8MUD
 
Yes and I can not see anything in the lines will check again. Yes both fronts are dragging but pass side is a bit worse. The rod I have not touched. And as far as ever thing let's see
Calipers, rotors, pads, master cylinder, booster, front rubber hose, lspv the blue box in the rear:/ , rear lines, shoes, new shoes kit, uhh I may be leaving out something but that's all that comes to mind

Sent from my iPhone 5 IOS 7 using IH8MUD

You say right here you have replaced the booster. Check the length of the rod before you do anything else period. Textbook symptoms right here.
 
You say right here you have replaced the booster. Check the length of the rod before you do anything else period. Textbook symptoms right here.

Umm do you know how long maybe?

Sent from my iPhone 5 IOS 7 using IH8MUD
 
For god's sake man! Buy the Factory Service Manual!

You won't get far with out it and we are lucky as Toyota puts out the best manuals I have ever seen!

Did you have this truck towed to the dealer when it broke down?

Did they use a J hook to hold it down on the wrecker?

This causes this problem.

That is what these guys are trying to tell you!
 
For god's sake man! Buy the Factory Service Manual! You won't get far with out it and we are lucky as Toyota puts out the best manuals I have ever seen! Did you have this truck towed to the dealer when it broke down? Did they use a J hook to hold it down on the wrecker? This causes this problem. That is what these guys are trying to tell you!

No I tow my own my own stuff have a rollback. And we don't use Js on any thing now unless it's a total car.

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For god's sake man! Buy the Factory Service Manual!

You won't get far with out it and we are lucky as Toyota puts out the best manuals I have ever seen!

X a bazillion. Or if you want electronic access buy a one day or two day membership here https://techinfo.toyota.com

You've gotten a lot of really good advice from some real experts ... sit down, calm down, review what they've told you. My guess is that there is a 99.99999999999999999999999999999999% chance they've given you the info you need to fix your rig, even if you mechanical skills are only at the :banana: level rather than the :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: on the howler monkey mechanic scale ...

:steer:
 
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X a bazillion. Or if you want electronic access buy a one day or two day membership here https://techinfo.toyota.com You've gotten a log of really good advice from some real experts ... sit down, calm down, review what they've told you. My guess is that there is a 99.99999999999999999999999999999999% chance they've given you the info you need to fix your rig, even if you mechanical skills are only at the :banana: level rather than the :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: on the howler monkey mechanic scale ... :steer:

Im fine no bigge iv got a new one here I'll try it no rush

Sent from my iPhone 5 IOS 7 using IH8MUD
 
Big D beat me to it. Check it per FSM specs... if you don't have one i'll find mine and take pics of it.
 
No I tow my own my own stuff have a rollback. And we don't use Js on any thing now unless it's a total car.

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Total car as in complete automobile? Like yours? I think voice to text is a problem for you, or you need to read your posts before hitting submit. There's lots of confusion. I'm not trying to be a tool, but a lot of what you type can go more than one way with spelling, grammar and punctuation errors. Clear and concise wins here every time. That said, I have no mechanical advice other than what has already been said. Seems legit to me. I know it sucks to replace a bunch of stuff and then have something strange pop up. I used to figure that I'd solve a problem by just replacing everything since I had to remove it to test it anyway. Now I try like hell to figure out the problem first...then I replace everything and still have problems half the time. Thankfully these guys are here for me. Again, no intent to be a tool here.

-john
 
Swapping a bunch of parts onto something before checking all the basics and doing proper diagnostics more than often brings in new problems to further complicate things. Just because a part is new does not mean that it is good unless it has been tested.

My parts guy in VA stopped selling carbs because people would want to return them when putting on a new carb did not fix their problem. A new carb is not going to fix a worn out motor.
 
Swapping a bunch of parts onto something before checking all the basics and doing proper diagnostics more than often brings in new problems to further complicate things. Just because a part is new does not mean that it is good unless it has been tested.

My parts guy in VA stopped selling carbs because people would want to return them when putting on a new carb did not fix their problem. A new carb is not going to fix a worn out motor.

Amen.
 
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