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Nonsense! You've been very helpful and we really appreciate it. I plan on picking your brain more, too
HELP! Prado broken down in Red Deer....
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Nonsense! You've been very helpful and we really appreciate it. I plan on picking your brain more, too
Well that explains why my driver's seat is worn since I got the truck!
I dig fat girls
Penticton Toyota-Prado
Hello everyone,
this is my first post in this forum.
I've bought a Prado (47000K) from Penticton Toyota. It turned out to be a complete lemon!! Problems from day one. Leaking rad, blown head etc. Worst of all the people at Penticton Toyota knew that these vehicles are nfg! The service manager and part owner Toni called the Prados "f####ing cr#p, I wish I'd never seen them"
(original quote). Presently I am trying to get my money back from them. BUYER BEWARE!!!!
Hello everyone,
this is my first post in this forum.
I've bought a Prado (47000K) from Penticton Toyota. It turned out to be a complete lemon!! Problems from day one. Leaking rad, blown head etc. Worst of all the people at Penticton Toyota knew that these vehicles are nfg! The service manager and part owner Toni called the Prados "f####ing cr#p, I wish I'd never seen them"
(original quote). Presently I am trying to get my money back from them. BUYER BEWARE!!!!
Easy, according to the Motor Vehicle Act it is illegal to sell a vehicle which does not comply to the act. A person or dealer can not legally sell a vehicle without compliance, so you are entitled to your money back. As a liecenced dealer they have to room to argue. Your 78 will not comply in stock form. End of story, period! Randomly inqure with your local CVSE. If they sound sympathetic ask for some help.
2. Prove your truck is a roll back. At 47,000KM it is quite possible. Prove its a roll back and you are entitled to your money back. Especially because they are a dealer.
3. You might have the option to some sort of 30 days no questions asked things. If they offered it, you are entitled to it.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Nick.
crushers
post ho
each province is different in it's rulings.
i would contact the local http://www.mdcbc.com/index.html and explain your case in a level, no exageration tone. if they feel there has been wrong doing they can help you out.
sorry to hear of your misfortune. i had heard rumours that Pendicton Toyota was a good company to deal with and that they stood behind their product.
cheers and good luck.
i would contact the local http://www.mdcbc.com/index.html and explain your case in a level, no exageration tone. if they feel there has been wrong doing they can help you out.
sorry to hear of your misfortune. i had heard rumours that Pendicton Toyota was a good company to deal with and that they stood behind their product.
cheers and good luck.
I'm not sure what you mean by "confirmed", but as you know, timing belt stickers are sometimes faked. "Confirmed" would be maintenance records, or Shaken records confirming the mileage and dates. I can count on one hand the number of vehicles I've seen in the auctions that had those records. For example timing belt stickers that look shiny and new and say that the belt was changed at 90,000 Kms and 14 years are obviously bogus. The interval is 100,000Kms or 10 years whichever comes first.
Sure, just a lot fewer of them. Eating and drinking in your vehicle was taboo in Japan when I was there - maybe still is. 150K Kms in 15 years is not going to make a C vehicle though....unless it was driven year round by a farmer in Hokkaido, but then we're not talking about that kind of vehicle are we?
Not the same as useage wear.
A sure sign of rewinding. Seats don't get torn or heavily worn in 100K or 150K.
Maybe if the driver suffers from St. Vitus Dance; there aren't many hobnail wearers in Japan though.
Same as door handles, steering wheels etc.: you could work out how many times in 1000Kms the average person uses the brake and clutch pedals; so if you have heavy wear you have mileage to match, regardless of what the odometer says.I had a Surf with about 150K Kms, hardly any wear anywhere, a little on the outside edge of the back of the driver's seat, almost nothing on the bottom edge. Smoked in? Sure was, and after I shampooed it you could see and smell the difference. Nothing to do with wear though. Wear happens from abrasion, rubbing, physical contact.
"Clean" is not the point. Actual physical wear from repeated contact and the abrasion of surfaces that causes is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. It doesn't matter how "clean" a vehicle is, if the steering wheel is worn smooth or the seats torn and broken. Yeh, there might be one vehicle in 100,000 where the owner sat in the seat with a screwdriver in his back pocket, drilled some holes in the dash for his nav system/TV, put cig burns in the door trim, and wore cork boots to work every day while driving with textured work gloves, all in 150K Kms...
Wear doesn't lie. It is a measurable, predicatable, consistent result of USE, and use in a vehicle means MILEAGE.
denis
(O) toyota nut (O)
denis
(O) toyota nut (O)
OK I'm wrong, mileage doesn't even necessarily mean use either. not all miles are equal.
It would seem logical that you should see more super-clean interior/exterior, highway queens rollbacks than beatup bush trucks rollbacks. At least the first ones are the most likely to look genuine.
It would seem logical that you should see more super-clean interior/exterior, highway queens rollbacks than beatup bush trucks rollbacks. At least the first ones are the most likely to look genuine.
crushers
post ho
dude, i am not going to get into a pissing contest with you. you beleive what you want and i will beleive what i know from importing a boat load of these units.
if you want to believe that every "C" rated unit in Japan is a roll back then be my guess...just don't be trying to convice everyone you are right because you are not...
cheers
"Pissing contest", that must be Mudese for an informed discussion.
Not "every", just 99% of them.
Yes, I am trying to convince everyone, or more accurately inform those who might be blarneyed into buying a rewind job as a low mileage truck.
It's like rifle barrels, if they have 5000 rounds through them the rifling is worn down, always. Rust, pits, metal fouling, dings and dents, they mean nothing but poor maintenance and rough use, but every time a bullet goes blasting down that hole with fire behind it, a little more of the rifling goes with it.
The same as worn wheels, knobs, handles, seats...someone has been using it and using it and using it.
This is all so well-known in the used car biz that dealers can tell in a 5 second look-over if a vehicle is 'right' or not. And I'm sure you can too.
Hey guys,
I think you can both be right, and just maybe not understanding eachother.
Here is my logic.
Previal, you kinda ansered your own question. If every afternoon someone shoots 50 rounds thier rifle will wear out fast. This is a given. Shooting more rounds down a hot barrel eat's it up more. If you allow your rifle to cool. It will stay better and more accurate longer (showing less wear) for the same rounds. Now, I know the idea of 50 rounds a every day is extreme. But its the idea of taking care of a rifle. Letting it cool. Avoiding rain & mostuire, keeping it clean. etc..
Kinda like a truck. If you do more long trips, there is less visable wear+tear for the KM's. Highway is steady and easy, and racks up the kms fast. This can put high KM's on, and still keep it looking low KM's. Plus it depends on how much the owner cared about keeping it clean. Even his wieght will make a difference. A 140lbs guy will not wear out a seat like I will at 200lbs.
Alternitvly, if a vehicle is low KM's it could be rough if driven in the city all the time.
Not very many KM's and lots of shifting, breaking, gas on, break on, in+out on the seats, doors etc....
It could make a truck look old fast.
Add a heavy guy in the mix, and someone that does not care, it can look nasty.
Logging trucks get traded in after 2 or 3 years.
They are low KM and usually look like crap.
An old man can have a high KM and 10 year old truck.
It can look brand new.
I know both are extemes. But there are both out there.
So as Wayne says, it can be either.
There is no rule, of X amount of KM's does XYZ worth of wear.
But I also understand your point, of a "typical scenario".
IE: Average blend of highway and city, by the average owner, will dictate a certain amount of standard wear+tear. But people in Japan can be very anal about things. Some are probably great, others are not. In the end it comes down to the owner.
You would expect a certain amount of wear for the KM's. But it does not mean both extremes are not out there.
Hope this helps.
I just felt it was getting a little hot in here.
Cheers,
Nick
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crushers
post ho
"Pissing contest", that must be Mudese for an informed discussion.
----heated discusion where feelings get hurt or riffs start
Not "every", just 99% of them.
---correct me if i am wrong, and i am not but i am gathering from this statement that you "feel" 99% of all "C" graded units are roll backs... buddy you are seriously wrong here. now if you mean 99% of all "C" rated LOW KM units are roll backs then once again you are wrong. did you not read my post about what definds a "C" rated unit? damage to the interior or heavy smoking. this does not mean it is a roll back.
i have seen grade "4" "B" roll backs. the grading of the interior means nothing to whether a unit is a roll back.
Yes, I am trying to convince everyone, or more accurately inform those who might be blarneyed into buying a rewind job as a low mileage truck.
--- now this is finally making sense. yes, if someone is lead to believe that a truck with excessive wear on the wear points as you mention is a low km unit then walk away, it probably is a roll back. this is why it is important to see the auction sheet, most of the roll backs are posted as such right on the sheet. BUT THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH INTERIOR RATING, this is common sense. do you understand what i am saying here? you can have excessive wear on the pedals this is usually a sign of high milage, but not a guarrantee...
normal conditions that might be mistaken for high milage:
1990 and newer: steering rim wear is very similar in appearence to sun UV attacking the plastic, same as hand brake and console cover.
as another example, in the Pajero the leather they use is poor quality so torn seats and cracking seats is common not a sign of a roll back.
to blantantly post the 99% OF ALL "C" RATED UNITS ARE ROLL BACKS is wrong and misleading. to post BEWARE OF ROLL BACKS then this is a good and fair warning that many buyers out there might not realise. people need to use their heads and not their hearts when shopping for a truck.
<--- side example of this: every week i get phone calls from people looking to buy a LJ series Land Cruiser. they read my page and the links provided and still call to see if i am serious with that posting or not. in the end many end up buying what they want int he first place. if someone is shopping with their heart instead of their head then ... well... there is nothing we can do to convince them otherwise. if someone see the signs of a roll back but still wants the truck, they will buy it. sad to say but some people are like this>
This is all so well-known in the used car biz that dealers can tell in a 5 second look-over if a vehicle is 'right' or not. And I'm sure you can too.
---more importantly is that your inspector in Japan can tell a roll back in 5 seconds or not. by the time it gets over here it is way too late.
---cheers and peace
----heated discusion where feelings get hurt or riffs start
Not "every", just 99% of them.
---correct me if i am wrong, and i am not but i am gathering from this statement that you "feel" 99% of all "C" graded units are roll backs... buddy you are seriously wrong here. now if you mean 99% of all "C" rated LOW KM units are roll backs then once again you are wrong. did you not read my post about what definds a "C" rated unit? damage to the interior or heavy smoking. this does not mean it is a roll back.
i have seen grade "4" "B" roll backs. the grading of the interior means nothing to whether a unit is a roll back.
Yes, I am trying to convince everyone, or more accurately inform those who might be blarneyed into buying a rewind job as a low mileage truck.
--- now this is finally making sense. yes, if someone is lead to believe that a truck with excessive wear on the wear points as you mention is a low km unit then walk away, it probably is a roll back. this is why it is important to see the auction sheet, most of the roll backs are posted as such right on the sheet. BUT THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH INTERIOR RATING, this is common sense. do you understand what i am saying here? you can have excessive wear on the pedals this is usually a sign of high milage, but not a guarrantee...
normal conditions that might be mistaken for high milage:
1990 and newer: steering rim wear is very similar in appearence to sun UV attacking the plastic, same as hand brake and console cover.
as another example, in the Pajero the leather they use is poor quality so torn seats and cracking seats is common not a sign of a roll back.
to blantantly post the 99% OF ALL "C" RATED UNITS ARE ROLL BACKS is wrong and misleading. to post BEWARE OF ROLL BACKS then this is a good and fair warning that many buyers out there might not realise. people need to use their heads and not their hearts when shopping for a truck.
<--- side example of this: every week i get phone calls from people looking to buy a LJ series Land Cruiser. they read my page and the links provided and still call to see if i am serious with that posting or not. in the end many end up buying what they want int he first place. if someone is shopping with their heart instead of their head then ... well... there is nothing we can do to convince them otherwise. if someone see the signs of a roll back but still wants the truck, they will buy it. sad to say but some people are like this>
This is all so well-known in the used car biz that dealers can tell in a 5 second look-over if a vehicle is 'right' or not. And I'm sure you can too.
---more importantly is that your inspector in Japan can tell a roll back in 5 seconds or not. by the time it gets over here it is way too late.
---cheers and peace
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- Thread starter
- #74
All very interesting. I don't know what to think about my situation at this point
I don't THINK my rig shows any of the aforementioned wear that would make me suspect it, but what the hell do I know? Frankly I hardly remember what it looks like, it's been almost 2 months since I've seen it.
In other bad vehicle news, I borrowed and was going to buy a 98 Windstar off my brother, just because I really needed a work vehicle with lots of room inside with the landcruiser out of commission. Just days before I was going to transfer it over, I was driving it and a huge dead cottonwood tree fell on me and totalled it around me.
I'm now down to a crappy old 87 tercel wagon with a cracked windshield and one headlight. WTF else could possibly go wrong?
I don't THINK my rig shows any of the aforementioned wear that would make me suspect it, but what the hell do I know? Frankly I hardly remember what it looks like, it's been almost 2 months since I've seen it.In other bad vehicle news, I borrowed and was going to buy a 98 Windstar off my brother, just because I really needed a work vehicle with lots of room inside with the landcruiser out of commission. Just days before I was going to transfer it over, I was driving it and a huge dead cottonwood tree fell on me and totalled it around me.
I'm now down to a crappy old 87 tercel wagon with a cracked windshield and one headlight. WTF else could possibly go wrong?
crushers
post ho
damn...
"if you didn't have bad luck you would have no luck at all"
glad to hear you are okay though...
Mike contacted me looking for a camshaft and head pieces... i have a lead on what you need so maybe i can help after all...
i would still approach the BC mediator and get them involved. the problem occured with the brand new head that was installed. the person(s) that installed it shoudl be good for the repair bill or at least part of it...
cheers
"if you didn't have bad luck you would have no luck at all"
glad to hear you are okay though...
Mike contacted me looking for a camshaft and head pieces... i have a lead on what you need so maybe i can help after all...
i would still approach the BC mediator and get them involved. the problem occured with the brand new head that was installed. the person(s) that installed it shoudl be good for the repair bill or at least part of it...
cheers
Holy Cra$! That's bad luck.
But, on the bright side you are ok . . . A friend of mine slipped coming out of his bathtub a week or so ok. His vehicle is fine, but he's in traction for several months . . .
I second Wayne on the repair issue.
Thanks for the reply to my post.
Which part of the motor vehicle act does a prado not comply with? I thought they are legal in every way? What does CVSE mean?
Penticton Toyota was good dealing with at first but then....
They repaired the head. It took 6weeks to do that. During the first 4 weeks they did not even work on the engine but took apart my dashboard, door panels, hubs etc, obviously for parts for other prados. When I got the truck back the speedo, and some of the gauges did not work. The transmissipon light was flashing, engine had absoluteley no power. Arriving in Princeton (125k drive) the engine is still running way hotter than it should, all gauges fail, the timing belt breakes......I sent the truck back to Penticton Toyota. They tell me they will give me the money back but can not refund the taxes, which of course is comlete B.S.. As of now they offerd me $3000 less than what I paid, no taxes. That means a loss of $5500 for me! I would not be so ticked off if they would not have known about these problems, but I know now that they where of these issues
Which part of the motor vehicle act does a prado not comply with? I thought they are legal in every way? What does CVSE mean?
Penticton Toyota was good dealing with at first but then....
They repaired the head. It took 6weeks to do that. During the first 4 weeks they did not even work on the engine but took apart my dashboard, door panels, hubs etc, obviously for parts for other prados. When I got the truck back the speedo, and some of the gauges did not work. The transmissipon light was flashing, engine had absoluteley no power. Arriving in Princeton (125k drive) the engine is still running way hotter than it should, all gauges fail, the timing belt breakes......I sent the truck back to Penticton Toyota. They tell me they will give me the money back but can not refund the taxes, which of course is comlete B.S.. As of now they offerd me $3000 less than what I paid, no taxes. That means a loss of $5500 for me! I would not be so ticked off if they would not have known about these problems, but I know now that they where of these issues
crushers
post ho
rear tail lights, side markers, rear side glass...
CVSE is "Commerical Vehicle & Safety Enforcement"
The canadian version of the DOT (Department of Transport).
As from them stripping your truck!
Thats dirty!!!! You bring it in with the stuff working, it should keep working.
They owe you new stuff in there. That is not right.
Regardless of that, take it back. They are just pulling your chain.
Get your money back (all of it). Get a lawyer if you have to.
Contact the CVSE, tell them what they did to you.
Then contact the Motor vehicle council of BC.
They should get some major flack for that.
They might even have lawyers or fight on your behalf.
A letter to the editor in the local paper will not hurt either.
I would start with being firm and wanting your money back.
If you have already done that, and not working.
Try the CVSE, then a lawyer.
I would also put a call into the BC motor vehicle council.
Actually, call the BC motor vehicle council first.
http://www.mdcbc.com/
And start documenting everything.
Every call, recipt, conversation....
Go back and fill out what you can.
Cheers,
Nick
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Endless:
I am sorry and feel really bad for you.
It sucks when everthing start falling apart.
But things for me have always worked out all the better.
So please take some encoragement in that. I hope & pray it will for you too.
Cheers,
Nick.
I am sorry and feel really bad for you.
It sucks when everthing start falling apart.
But things for me have always worked out all the better.
So please take some encoragement in that. I hope & pray it will for you too.
Cheers,
Nick.
