HELP! Prado broken down in Red Deer....

[nickw]

No, I guess I can't really say for sure that the km count is accurate....but we've driven it according to the 'diesel basics' thread, more or less. We change the oil every 5,000km. I guess I should talk to Penticton Toyota about seeing if they can confirm the mileage.

If you bought it from a dealer, you are protected from roll back.
If there was any roll back? I only mention all this, because many rigs DO have rollback.
If the truck was rolled back, and has more KM's, then the dealer should be liable for something.
You could probably get them to pay for repairs, or maybe a cash settlement back to you??
Not sure what happens with this sort of stuff.
I am just guessing. Heopfully could save you some money.

How does the drivers seat, steeringwheel and pedals look?
Have any pics? They are tell tale signs.
Your rig has low KM's. They should not look worn yet, and should look new.
If you are unsure, post some pics of the interior.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[endless]

I don't have any pics of the interior at the moment, but everything is in great shape, not worn at all. Maybe you're right and it was just mistreated before we got it.

 

[Island Moose]

I don't have any pics of the interior at the moment, but everything is in great shape, not worn at all. Maybe you're right and it was just mistreated before we got it.

Confirm it even IS the turbo before jumping down that road. It's tempting to imagine the worst, but I saw your rig on the ferry that day and it wasn't abused by any stretch of the imagination.

 

[crushers]

Pendicton Toyota shouldhave a copy of the original Japanese auction sheet. if you want to email me a copy i can decifer it for you...

 

[endless]

Thanks, Wayne.
I'm scanning and emailing you what I have here, hopefully it can tell you something!

Still waiting for ProActive to have time for us, but the truck is sitting there waiting at least.

 

[Japan4X4]

Even better than the auction sheet is a copy of the original registration in Japan, not the export registration. The original will have the last two years odometer readings on it. If the people you are dealing with in Japan can not dig these up it means that the car was not registered since 2004. If all they offer is the export registration papers then ask for a copy of the Masho or Shakken-sho.

This is not 100% water tight but it is a good first step.

 

[Urbancarrot]

endless,

Did you get your truck back to the Kootenays yet?

Was it the turbo?

Just curious...

Todd

 

[endless]

No, it's still in Calgary....I'm out of town again but my partner in crime started a new thread here about it recently if you want the gory details

 

[Previa Diesel]

Radial play in the turbo is not usually a problem unless the vanes touch the housing. Being a fluid bearing it is self-centering.

Axial play is a problem. IIRC I saw a spec of .3mm being acceptable...just enough to feel if you have a good touch! On the other hand, if it's not making strange noises and works OK, I wouldn't worry about it. It'll let you know when its had enough.

If your vacuum lines get disconnected that can have a major impact on power in the old 2LT - perhaps in the 2LTE too?

The first 3 scans are from the 1985 2LT truck manual - same CT-20 turbo, but of course not EFI.

The last one is the 2LTE vacuum lines - check your connections. Yours should be the same, unless you have a 2LT-II, non-EFI engine. "TURBO-D" on the pipe on top the engine.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1097833/Toyota2LTTurboManual1.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1097833/Toyota2LTTurboManual2.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1097833/Toyota2LTTurboManual3.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1097833/Toyota2LTTurboManual3.JPG

You should contact Castle Hill Toyota in Australia and buy a new injection pump (if you have a 2LTE) for $350. AU while supplies last. That is about cost and methinks there must be a reason why Toyota is selling them so cheap...

 

[Previa Diesel]

If you bought it from a dealer, you are protected from roll back.

Oh, they use a rubber do they?



Or do you get a free piece of 4x4 to put behind the wheels?



Would you like some photos of rewound vehicles being sold by dealers?

Oh, we'd better not go there, the last thread that revealed too many trade secrets got mysteriously deleted.

 

[Previa Diesel]

Pendicton Toyota shouldhave a copy of the original Japanese auction sheet. if you want to email me a copy i can decifer it for you...

Hell, post it here and I'll get it translated for you.

If it wasn't a B interior it's rewound. 99% certain.

OK, gotta go...

 

[endless]

If it wasn't a B interior it's rewound. 99% certain.

That's encouraging.....

Thanks for the info, Turbo, but at this point I'm letting the shop deal with it, with a little help from Wayne. Maybe I'll get it back sometime next year

 

[crushers]

If it wasn't a B interior it's rewound. 99% certain.
...

love to know what you based your certainty on...

 

[crushers]

That's encouraging.....

Thanks for the info, Turbo, but at this point I'm letting the shop deal with it, with a little help from Wayne. Maybe I'll get it back sometime next year

sad to say, very little help from Wayne...

 

[Previa Diesel]

love to know what you based your certainty on...

Observation. Wear doesn't happen when a vehicle is not being used. If it has less than 150K Kms or less than 100K Kms it will LOOK like it does and that means very little visible wear on all the contact points: steering wheel, seats, buttons, knobs, handles etc. etc. Little or no ingrained dust and dirt in all the corners and crevices etc. Little or no marks/scratches on the stereo display, instrument cluster perspex etc.

If a vehicle doesn't look low mileage inside, it isn't low mileage. Period.

They've got some good detailers in Japan, but worn surfaces don't lie.

 

[denis]

If a vehicle doesn't look low mileage inside, it isn't low mileage. Period.

This is just not true. There are exceptions for eveything. My hilux has 130000 genuine kms and the interior looks 300k-ish.

 

[Previa Diesel]

I considered mentioning mine trucks and business vehicles as obvious exceptions because they get abused and have dirty people getting in and out daily, but figured it wasn't necessary.

We have to differentiate between dirt and wear. Wear only happens with physical contact/abrasion etc.

There is no way around this. If a steering wheel or a seat or a door handle is worn, it is worn because it has been used while the truck was being driven.

Unless someone sat in the truck for a couple of hours a day and just played with all the controls...

With a consistent surface/material like Toyota interiors, wear is wear is wear.

How does one steering wheel get worn smooth in 100K and another show almost no wear in 100K? Answer: it doesn't. Impossible.

 

[crushers]

i will disagree with your observations. i have seen some very clean roll backs and i have seen some very worn confirmed low km units.

there are pigs in Japan just like there are pigs in Canada...

steering wheels, picked at and sun baked
seats torn in the usual places due to frequent entry and exit.
brake pedal pads can show wear due to agressive shoes or boots
heavy smoking can give a vehicle a well used look and smell in just a few months.

clean units can be roll backs and grade C can easily be genuine km. grade C interior mean "dirty, ripped, heavily smoked in, burn holes, damaged dash or seats, screw holes etc" this has NOTHING to do with roll back odometers...

 

[denis]

Obviously a door-to-door backcountry truck will have more wear in the doors, seats, controls than a highway runner. It will also have a different kind of mechanical wear. Just an example. All things equal a short fat driver will wear the seat a lot more getting in and out than a tall thin driver.

 

[endless]

All things equal a short fat driver will wear the seat a lot more getting in and out than a tall thin driver.

Well that explains why my driver's seat is worn since I got the truck!