HELP! No spark, 100 miles from home

[tlcnoobie]

Installed Pertronix ignitor and Flamethrower coil. Fj 40 started fine, ran for about 20 minutes, then quit. Now, no spark, and here's how I tested for that:
Hooked up timing light, no flash when engine is cranked.
Pulled a plug wire, held close to engine ground- no spark jump to engine ground
Pulled coil tower wire to dizzy, held near engine ground- no spark when engine cranked.

I have 3.2 ohms accross the terminals of the new 3.o ohm coil.
I have 11.75 volts to coil plus terminal when ignition switch is "on".

I submitted an earlier thread a couple of weeks ago that read "fj 40 starts, runs then quits,,," which noted that the same thing happened- truck would run for about 20 minutes, then quit, no spark available, but would get spark back after some time, maybe 30 minutes. That's why I upgraded the ignition system.

Anything I can try to get the truck running and back home? I'll stay glued to the screen if you have an idea.

 

[IDave]

Wasn't that the discussion where a possible bad coil came up?

 

[tlcnoobie]

Yes, a bad coil was suggested, which is why I installed the new Flamethrower coil from Pertronix.

But, I believe I've discovered the problem, but don't know what to do next.
Pulled the dizzy cap, had the engine cranked, and noticed that the dizzy rotor was not turning. That will cause a lack of spark every time.
We cannot remove the dizzy to find out what the problem is. The hold-down bracket is completly loose, the dizzy rotates freely around the shaft, but it will not come out. Soaked that puppy with PB Blaster, beat on it with a big hammer and piece of wood... nada. It will not begin to slide out of the shaft cavity.

Anyone had this problem? I'm ready to sacrifice the dizzy but don't know how to persuade it to come out. There must be a problem with the sprial gear deep down in the engine which may be keeping us from removing it.
I put a 16mm deep socket on the shaft, and it has the usual small play left and right.

Removal ideas, anyone?

 

[tlcnoobie]

I'll repost this prolem under distributor so we can get the right advice.

 

[IDave]

You may have to drop the pan and knock it out from below. Yes this is big trouble. And there have been discussions in the past.

 

[tlcnoobie]

Please, what was the thread? I'm terrible at thinking fo the right search word for stuck dizzy.

 

[tlcnoobie]

Dropped the pan, removed the oil pump and drove out the dizzy from below. Discovered the pin through the spiral gear had sheared, and broke the housing on the dizzy. So, now I need a source of a reliable vendor for a vacuum retard dizzy. IF you know of one, or more, please let me know.

 

[CruisinGA]

I've got one of my '74. Worked fine when pulled, has worn bushing like most. PM if you want it.

You'd be much better served to upgrade to an earlier or later model with vacuum advance and port the carb to take advantage of a vacuum advance distributor.

 

[IDave]

Bailey is right. Vacuum advance. I would never go back to retard.

 

[spotcruiser]

tlcnoob,
Please see the other thread. I have a vacuum advance distributor, if that will do.

Todd Bull.

 

[tlcnoobie]

Thanks guys. I have a boatload of VW parts places, but none for TLC.
I just spent $130 for Pertronix ignitor and coil, so I'm trying to find a dizzy that will accept that kit so I don't waste the money.
Many recommend upgrading to Toyota electronic and be done with it, but I didn't expect to ruin the dizzy when I removed it, and so for now will try to accomodate what I have.
I'd try vacuum advance but the thread on it seemed to indicate that porting should be left to an expert. I'm definitely not one of those.