HELP!! Need help stabbing transmission in. (1 Viewer)

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RodrigzCrzr

RodrigzCrzr

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Hello
Fellow 60 owners in SoCal area Venice, Culver city to be exact.
I need help stabbing my transmission on my 40 series. I am asking for help I am 1/2 inch away from setting it.
I could really use the muscle.
My GF tried and hurt herself.
I’m so close yet so far!
Asking the community for help!
60 owners or 40 owners.
 
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OSS said:
It’s a one man job. Two people will not make it easier and will likely make things worse.
The clutch alignment tool must slip easily through the clutch disc and pilot bearing with zero catching on an edge.
Click to expand...
Yes, the alignment tool did slip right in through the clutch disc and the pilot bearing.
 
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did you happen to try the pilot bearing on the shaft before installing in the flywheel?
DO NOT use the mounting bolts to pull into place

are you using a lifting device? trans may need to angle up, down or sideways slightly to align
 
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3_puppies said:
did you happen to try the pilot bearing on the shaft before installing in the flywheel?
DO NOT use the mounting bolts to pull into place

are you using a lifting device? trans may need to angle up, down or sideways slightly to align
Click to expand...
Yes and yes.
 
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I'll just put this out there cuz it happened to me: I struggled for a couple of days and it turned out to be one of the alignment dowels from the Bellhousing or Transmission had come out and and was stuck in the opposite hole. At some point the missing dowel was replaced, but the original one, now stuck in the opposite hole, wasn't realized, so they were 'butting heads' during installation, preventing the last inch of mating. Once removed, in like Flynn.

Just something to check.
 
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Spike Strip said:
I'll just put this out there cuz it happened to me: I struggled for a couple of days and it turned out to be one of the alignment dowels from the Bellhousing or Transmission had come out and and was stuck in the opposite hole. At some point the missing dowel was replaced, but the original one, now stuck in the opposite hole, wasn't realized, so they were 'butting heads' during installation, preventing the last inch of mating. Once removed, in like Flynn.

Just something to check.
Click to expand...
I have checked my dowel pins and they are good not crossed. You would think with the pins in place that tranny should just slide in.
I notice when I lift the tranny a certain way it floats on the dowel pins. And I can shake it and around but just doesn’t seem to want to insert into the pilot bearing.
I think I am going to drop it again and reset the whole process again!!
Thanks for your input.
 
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On clutch replacements on JZ motors ive done in thepast, having someone back there to spin the output of the trans helped a lot to get everthing lined up. The W55 and r154 are super bad about getting that last few inches in
 
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RodrigzCrzr said:
How did you use the ratchet straps?
Click to expand...
Use them to pull the transmission toward the engine - with moderate pressure. That way you're not having to lift, wiggle, and push/pull at the same time; you can just lift and wiggle and let the straps pull the transmission. Also x2 on what @dbbowen said - sometimes the input shaft splines line up with the clutch plate splines preventing the transmission from sliding forward.
 
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Here is how I figured how to do it help the alignment

The transmission to bellhousing bolts are M12x1.25 and there are 4 of them. I think I got them 6" long.

I went to home depot and bought 4 of them and cut the heads off with a cutoff wheel and put a chamfer at the ends. At this point they are long guide pins to insure the transmission +tcase don't tilt / pivot. Slide in the transmission input shaft through the throwout bearing and wiggle it side to side and up and down. At some point you get about 1/4in away and that means the tip of the input shaft is at the pilot bearing or in it. Now remove two of the studs diagonally from each other and use bolts to draw them in the final amount.

So just my experience and how I did my 77fj40.
 
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ERNRAM said:
... use bolts to draw them in the final amount.
Click to expand...

I would caution against this - It may work, but you risk snapping off one of the ears on the transmission if something is really jammed up ... I've seen it happen and there are pictures of it somewhere on MUD. Can't find at the moment.

The guide dowels are a good idea. Cut a slot in the rear so you can remove with a screwdriver.

1686027359854.png


1686027389838.png

1686027418334.png
 
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Spike Strip said:
I would caution against this - It may work, but you risk snapping off one of the ears on the transmission if something is really jammed up ... I've seen it happen and there are pictures of it somewhere on MUD. Can't find at the moment.

The guide dowels are a good idea. Cut a slot in the rear so you can remove with a screwdriver.

View attachment 3341804

View attachment 3341805
View attachment 3341806
Click to expand...
Yeah I have not used the actual bolts to draw it in. For fear of breaking an ear off the bell housing.
Why I am using the dowels as guides.
 
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The 4 long studs will give you a much finer alignment prior to engaging the 2 small short dowl pins that are in the bellhousing. That's its only purpose to give you a better fighting chance.

With respect to drawing it in, I used a hand wrench ( not a socket) for the last 1/4" so I could feel the resistance level.

Again, proceed with caution accordingly
 
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Did you PHYSICALLY check the input shaft bearing (the one that goes into the crank) that the input shaft slides into before installing it???

Ask me how i learned this.... Daysssss of fighting with it and everything seemed lined up fine

Long story short, the brand new bearing ID was a tad too small... Yeah....
 
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For reference I removed the transmission from top and lower top bottom and the opposite way to install. I seemed to have alot more control

Screenshot_20230606_073005.jpg
 
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