Try sticking your bottle jack between the spring and frame and popping it out.
Uh, use a looong stick to crank the jack.
Help me get my BJ42 roadworthy
- Thread starter lwheat
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Try sticking your bottle jack between the spring and frame and popping it out.
Uh, use a looong stick to crank the jack.
- Thread starter
- #42
tried both methods.
guy pulled it all off and put it back on today. the anti-inversion shackles were on the wrong way as well. the leaves are fine, and the right length for the car.
he's going over the car and fixing up the bits and pieces. thankfully the engine is good and honest.
time to start hunting for some steel. what's the best stuff to use for patching up te side walls and rear corners of the tub?
Gday Lucas,
another newish Melbourne BJ42 owner here.
Looks like you got a bit a work ahead of you- good luck with it.
I'm getting mine back from the mechanics with a roadworthy tomorrow, and taking it into Vic roads on friday to get it rego'd.
(then hopefully heading straight down the great ocean road friday arv
)
It has taken me a hell of a lot longer than planned (though at the end I was just waiting for my old 74' Transit Van to sell so I could afford the RW and rego)
My list came back a hell of lot shorter than yours, but still a lot longer than I was hoping for. No rust thankfully.
Bloody mechanic took one look under my truck and assumed everything that had a light coating of oil on it was leaking (nothing was dripping, just generally black, greasy and 'protected') That meant just about everything failed his oil leak test...
during a sharp argument with him (probably not the best thing to do) he told me I should have cleaned it first... I told him he should have told me that everything dirty (and its not like my engine was very bad at all) would automatically fail
... anyway, paying another $15 for him to spray clean everything of concern- and he finally realised that there were no oil leaks from anything.
(in the end he hasn't turned out too bad... but then I haven't got the final bill yet
)
From memory, my list of work,
worst thing - 'badly' leaking master brake cylinder- rebuild,
rear door seals,
drivers side seat belt,
steering play- tie rods,
wiper blades...
an a couple of other things I can't remember.
I could have done most of this myself, but I just want it finally on the road so am paying him to do the lot.
One ongoing problem I had until last week was starting- it was driving me crazy.
A brand new 700CCA battery, a newly rebuilt starter motor (which was stuffed btw)- and still- unless the battery had the fullest of full charge and/or I was jumping it at the same time- it just wouldn't turn over with enough gusto to fire.
With a little help from a friend and a multimeter, we isolated it down to be a bad earth wire from the engine block to the chassis- proof of course was had with clipping a few jumper leads from the engine block onto the chassis- instantly turned it over at full speed.
The earth cable look quite new and perfect from the outside and like all my other earths and battery terminals etc, I had previously cleaned the connections- just hadn't multimeter tested it yet
Now, with a new earth cable, I don't even have to use the glowplugs to start if I don't want to
anyway, here is my thread so far of trialing and erroring.
Good luck with it all- hope you get it on the road sooner rather than later.
Hans.
(p.s. your signature link goes to the wrong address- though it is spelled right on the link, the address it goes to is spelled wrong...
)
another newish Melbourne BJ42 owner here.
Looks like you got a bit a work ahead of you- good luck with it.
I'm getting mine back from the mechanics with a roadworthy tomorrow, and taking it into Vic roads on friday to get it rego'd.
(then hopefully heading straight down the great ocean road friday arv
)It has taken me a hell of a lot longer than planned (though at the end I was just waiting for my old 74' Transit Van to sell so I could afford the RW and rego)
My list came back a hell of lot shorter than yours, but still a lot longer than I was hoping for. No rust thankfully.
Bloody mechanic took one look under my truck and assumed everything that had a light coating of oil on it was leaking (nothing was dripping, just generally black, greasy and 'protected') That meant just about everything failed his oil leak test...
during a sharp argument with him (probably not the best thing to do) he told me I should have cleaned it first... I told him he should have told me that everything dirty (and its not like my engine was very bad at all) would automatically fail
... anyway, paying another $15 for him to spray clean everything of concern- and he finally realised that there were no oil leaks from anything.(in the end he hasn't turned out too bad... but then I haven't got the final bill yet
)From memory, my list of work,
worst thing - 'badly' leaking master brake cylinder- rebuild,
rear door seals,
drivers side seat belt,
steering play- tie rods,
wiper blades...
an a couple of other things I can't remember.
I could have done most of this myself, but I just want it finally on the road so am paying him to do the lot.
One ongoing problem I had until last week was starting- it was driving me crazy.
A brand new 700CCA battery, a newly rebuilt starter motor (which was stuffed btw)- and still- unless the battery had the fullest of full charge and/or I was jumping it at the same time- it just wouldn't turn over with enough gusto to fire.
With a little help from a friend and a multimeter, we isolated it down to be a bad earth wire from the engine block to the chassis- proof of course was had with clipping a few jumper leads from the engine block onto the chassis- instantly turned it over at full speed.
The earth cable look quite new and perfect from the outside and like all my other earths and battery terminals etc, I had previously cleaned the connections- just hadn't multimeter tested it yet
Now, with a new earth cable, I don't even have to use the glowplugs to start if I don't want to
anyway, here is my thread so far of trialing and erroring.
Good luck with it all- hope you get it on the road sooner rather than later.
Hans.
(p.s. your signature link goes to the wrong address- though it is spelled right on the link, the address it goes to is spelled wrong...
)
That sounds like 8 hours of work to me, tops... how long has it taken him?!?!
Thanks for the estimate, I'll let you know what he charges me for labor in the end. (he knows I will be scrutinizing the bill)
it will have been in there a week once I get it back tomorrow, but most of that has just been it sitting around- you know, waiting for him to get one of the young blokes to wash the tranny case, the engine, the knuckles, etc, etc, so they can be sure it is not dripping oil, so I can tell them to go ahead with some sort of agreed upon plan... waiting for door seals, seat belt, etc.
He was too busy to talk details today- just said he would have it ready by tomorrow arv like he agreed to.
He's not being too bad about it all- he could have picked my front door seals, he could have made trouble over my manual EDIC cable, and after telling me my bighorns would not pass (too big) he could've made trouble over the split rim half bald, dessert dueler set I swapped on- he could have even picked on the couple of rust spots that have been bogged some time ago and are cracking...
Like I said, I could have done most of this list... but I just couldn't be bothered- I also don't really have the time right now- and my garage (outdoor park) has been really wet and cold lately
I have already had my first argument with this mechanic- but he seemed to get a lot more decent after that.
We'll see. I wouldn't be using him unless he was 5 minutes bike ride from my house.
This was just for a roadworthy, for future issues I can't deal with myself I will hunt down a proper diesel mechanic- and hopefully someone who I don't instantly start banging heads with
)it will have been in there a week once I get it back tomorrow, but most of that has just been it sitting around- you know, waiting for him to get one of the young blokes to wash the tranny case, the engine, the knuckles, etc, etc, so they can be sure it is not dripping oil, so I can tell them to go ahead with some sort of agreed upon plan... waiting for door seals, seat belt, etc.
He was too busy to talk details today- just said he would have it ready by tomorrow arv like he agreed to.
He's not being too bad about it all- he could have picked my front door seals, he could have made trouble over my manual EDIC cable
, and after telling me my bighorns would not pass (too big) he could've made trouble over the split rim half bald, dessert dueler set I swapped on- he could have even picked on the couple of rust spots that have been bogged some time ago and are cracking...Like I said, I could have done most of this list... but I just couldn't be bothered- I also don't really have the time right now- and my garage (outdoor park) has been really wet and cold lately
I have already had my first argument with this mechanic- but he seemed to get a lot more decent after that.
We'll see. I wouldn't be using him unless he was 5 minutes bike ride from my house.
This was just for a roadworthy, for future issues I can't deal with myself I will hunt down a proper diesel mechanic- and hopefully someone who I don't instantly start banging heads with
- Thread starter
- #46
stupid melbourne weather. was going parts hunting today - but the rain has put a stop to that. hoping it will hold off at some point in the afternoon.... may just go anyway - only need to unbolt some doors off.
Friggin miserable eh!
I've got a seminar at Melb Uni I am meant to go to- which I usually ride my bike to. I don't want to leave the house and the heater- and I certainly don't want to battle rush-hour wet-weather trams on the way home
Bugger it, I am staying home! At least it won't be such a panic rush to pick up my truck.
btw, where are you going part hunting?
I've got a seminar at Melb Uni I am meant to go to- which I usually ride my bike to. I don't want to leave the house and the heater- and I certainly don't want to battle rush-hour wet-weather trams on the way home
Bugger it, I am staying home! At least it won't be such a panic rush to pick up my truck.
btw, where are you going part hunting?
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
friggin miserable eh!
I've got a seminar at melb uni i am meant to go to- which i usually ride my bike to. I don't want to leave the house and the heater- and i certainly don't want to battle rush-hour wet-weather trams on the way home
Bugger it, i am staying home! At least it won't be such a panic rush to pick up my truck.
Btw, where are you going part hunting?
Matt's emporium on Friday
PUSSY
Matt
PUSSY
Matt
Yep.
Riding my mountain bike on the suicide run through the afternoon rush hour is a cinch- but there is no way I feel like battling old ladies for a seat on the tram today
Screw that, this heater is toasty warm... time to ring the mechanic me thinks
When I had first had my springs re-arched (with added leafs put in) the right one would invert any time it dropped 4 or 5 inches. I just stuck the tire iron in it and popped it back out, hardly any effort at all. I am surprised yours was so difficult. Aftera few weeks the springs settled down some and there has been no problem for the last 29 years.
- Thread starter
- #51
Friggin miserable eh!
I've got a seminar at Melb Uni I am meant to go to- which I usually ride my bike to. I don't want to leave the house and the heater- and I certainly don't want to battle rush-hour wet-weather trams on the way home
Bugger it, I am staying home! At least it won't be such a panic rush to pick up my truck.
btw, where are you going part hunting?
at least you have tyres for the wet on your bike. i'm on 700x23 - the rear is so bald that next time i get a flat it's getting changed.
i went out to halls today. it's like a supermarket - everything is already stripped (and getting ready to ship to the US) better get in quick before they ship what's already there.
got both ambulance doors for $125ea. (pictures coming) i need to put the glass into the left one - any tips? ron wanted $450 for the driver's door. i said i'd sleep on it as they have a few - one's even purple. they didn't have any window panels - the one i think is going to be the hardest to repair - but i've asked them to keep an eye out.
going to take it out there on sat (if it's back from the mechanics) and measure it up for some different seats and see if i can find any bits and pieces that are in better nick than mine are.
i'm also off to matt's house of fun tomorrow afternoon. hopefully he might have some bits for it.
getting closer
(ps shackles are done. no idea why they were so hard, mechanic took the leaves off to do it as the shackles were installed the wrong way around.)
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Yeah, I was a bit disappointed when I went to Halls- I was expecting to be walking round an acre or so of old 40 series, pulling off random bits I wanted not walking up to a front desk where parts are distributed wrapped in plastic and carboard and priced for their weight in silver.
Oh well...
Matt's is much more fun. And much fairer. Parts seemed to be priced more related to their weight in top shelf microbrewery beer!
Btw,
When I was hunting for a 40 series, I was looking at some FJ's. I found and almost bought one (very glad I didn't;p) with not a speck of (serious) rust on it- every panel was perfect- can't recall the exact price but it would have gone for 2,000, to 2,500. It wasn't too shabby otherwise, good LPG conversion, good mechanicals, just needed too many things for rego and was pretty rough inside...
this was it
Could it be worth trying to find a good cheap rust free donor FJ for a panel swap and then flogging it off?
and, last threadjack I hope,
just following up on my roadworthy,
new wiper blades,
new rear door seals,
new master brake cylinder (non OEM),
new shackle bushes all around,
adjusted RF wheel bearing,
new tie rod ends,
All up cost around 1K.
He reckons he spent twice as many hours on it as he is charging me for...
Wouldn't take any money off me until he replaces the last tie rod end next week (had to re-order one).
Tomorrow I am off to Vic roads for some plates, then come back and swap my bighorns back on, quickly pack and then head off down the Great Ocean Rd to Wye River for the weekend.
(My truck is looking so absurd right now with its oversize rear flares and skinny wheels
)
not walking up to a front desk where parts are distributed wrapped in plastic and carboard and priced for their weight in silver.Oh well...
Matt's is much more fun. And much fairer. Parts seemed to be priced more related to their weight in top shelf microbrewery beer!
Btw,
When I was hunting for a 40 series, I was looking at some FJ's. I found and almost bought one (very glad I didn't;p) with not a speck of (serious) rust on it- every panel was perfect- can't recall the exact price but it would have gone for 2,000, to 2,500. It wasn't too shabby otherwise, good LPG conversion, good mechanicals, just needed too many things for rego and was pretty rough inside...
this was it
Could it be worth trying to find a good cheap rust free donor FJ for a panel swap and then flogging it off?
and, last threadjack I hope,
just following up on my roadworthy,
new wiper blades,
new rear door seals,
new master brake cylinder (non OEM),
new shackle bushes all around,
adjusted RF wheel bearing,
new tie rod ends,
All up cost around 1K.
He reckons he spent twice as many hours on it as he is charging me for...
Wouldn't take any money off me until he replaces the last tie rod end next week (had to re-order one).
Tomorrow I am off to Vic roads for some plates, then come back and swap my bighorns back on, quickly pack and then head off down the Great Ocean Rd to Wye River for the weekend.
(My truck is looking so absurd right now with its oversize rear flares and skinny wheels
)- Thread starter
- #53
oi - outa my thread!!!
halls is handy - but i think ron charges for the ease of getting the stuff.
there's a bunch of stuff that's different from the BJ to the FJ - front windshield mount, tub, seats, doors (the mirror mount is different from looking at the picture there). i'm trying to find a table of bits that are compatible. maybe i'll make one up....
have fun this weekend. i'll be trying to work out how to install the window into an ambulance door and also looking for ways to repair the tub and post, finding weather seal, replacing the seat and just about anything else that needs work.
pics of the doors
and my current wheels
halls is handy - but i think ron charges for the ease of getting the stuff.
there's a bunch of stuff that's different from the BJ to the FJ - front windshield mount, tub, seats, doors (the mirror mount is different from looking at the picture there). i'm trying to find a table of bits that are compatible. maybe i'll make one up....
have fun this weekend. i'll be trying to work out how to install the window into an ambulance door and also looking for ways to repair the tub and post, finding weather seal, replacing the seat and just about anything else that needs work.
pics of the doors
and my current wheels
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I knew the tub was different, and then that windshield pictured is the older (can't remember the year) one with the wipers on the top- but I should've known it wouldn't be so easy to do the panel swap. (that truck was a 70's one that had a recent 2F engine swap)
Before you know it you'd be doing a FJ to BJ conversion like Hamish (hes21) is
btw, your bike probably weighs about as much as my front forks
I've never ridden one of those things- they look like fun (especially as they overtake me) but I think I am too used to my disc brakes now- I seem to lock them up at least once a day as some goose in a cage tries to kill me.
Good luck with it all.
(out of your thread now)
Before you know it you'd be doing a FJ to BJ conversion like Hamish (hes21) is
btw, your bike probably weighs about as much as my front forks
I've never ridden one of those things- they look like fun (especially as they overtake me
) but I think I am too used to my disc brakes now- I seem to lock them up at least once a day as some goose in a cage tries to kill me.Good luck with it all.
(out of your thread now
)- Thread starter
- #55
btw, your bike probably weighs about as much as my front forks
I've never ridden one of those things- they look like fun (especially as they overtake me
Good luck with it all.
(out of your thread now
you should learn to dodge better. or use the tram tracks
it's getting heavier with the rust developing on it. housemates don't like the bike inside. hoping to move the washing machine and put it there soon.
give me a yell and you can come try it out (in a parking lot with lots of padding on
)
you should learn to dodge better. or use the tram tracks
it's getting heavier with the rust developing on it. housemates don't like the bike inside. hoping to move the washing machine and put it there soon.
give me a yell and you can come try it out (in a parking lot with lots of padding on
Mostly when I lock my wheels, the only dodge would be over the top of the offending car
But then I spent so many years on POS bikes with my foot on the tire as a brake that I think I get off on locking up the wheels now
mine too is slowly gathering brown-weight as it lives outside locked to a bush
padding indeed- I'd probably try jumping off a gutter or over a speed hump before I could stop myself- and end up in a twisted heap of metal and popped rubber
(warped my rear rim last week
)- Thread starter
- #57
jump? what is that?
picked up a front apron - thanks matt
picking up a bonnet - again thanks matt
still hunting - driver's door + RH side panel + driver's seat (may just cover it)
car's not ready yet. so we have a weekend of having to entertain myself in other manners. i might strip some of the paint and rust off the new doors. see how we go.
picked up a front apron - thanks matt
picking up a bonnet - again thanks matt
still hunting - driver's door + RH side panel + driver's seat (may just cover it)
car's not ready yet. so we have a weekend of having to entertain myself in other manners. i might strip some of the paint and rust off the new doors. see how we go.
G'day,
I've got a reasonably clean 1980 BJ40, mustard in colour with a recently re-built B diesel. If you are interested in getting all the parts off of it to put on your rig, it is sitting in Officer. I am hoping to get rid of it so I don't have to ship it to Adelaide. I'd let you have it for what i am in it- about $2200. PM me if you are interested, and I will send you photos.
Cheers,
Josh
I've got a reasonably clean 1980 BJ40, mustard in colour with a recently re-built B diesel. If you are interested in getting all the parts off of it to put on your rig, it is sitting in Officer. I am hoping to get rid of it so I don't have to ship it to Adelaide. I'd let you have it for what i am in it- about $2200. PM me if you are interested, and I will send you photos.
Cheers,
Josh
I was just parked in Nth Fitzroy waiting for my girlfriend and a guy approached me to ask about my rear wheel flares... anyway as it turns out he has a couple of FJ's he is selling off- one parting out, one selling whole- not sure which is which but he has an 82' and a 76'. Said he had some good panels and a good tub (FJ yeah, I know...) PM'ing you his name and number if it is any good to you.
Hans.
Hans.
- Thread starter
- #60
i'm all good with panels at the moment - fibreglassing the bonnet holes and the bottom of the doors. all the tub has been welded and primed.
cleaned all the moss and stuff off the top and found two holes in it that leak through to the inside. best be to fix them up? fibreglass or epoxy? new top?
cleaned all the moss and stuff off the top and found two holes in it that leak through to the inside. best be to fix them up? fibreglass or epoxy? new top?
