- Thread starter
- #21
yeah, that guy called "themselves"
why did this guy have to only use red and yellow? red and red for pos and neg? PITA
Help me get my BJ42 roadworthy
- Thread starter lwheat
- Start date
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yeah, that guy called "themselves"
why did this guy have to only use red and yellow? red and red for pos and neg? PITA
- Thread starter
- #23
well, the rat's nest is out. it looks like most of it was there for some lights that were on the rear and to power the added dashboard.
same problem happened again though.
after pulling all the wiring out i switched it to "on" and pulled out the light knob to check that they still worked. it went "click", and then died. turn the key to on and nothing happens, no lights, no park brake indicator - nothing. could be the battery again, so i'm charging that.
there's a CB radio in it that is independent of the ignition. it also doesn't work. plan to follow the wiring of that tomorrow. too much staring at the thing today.
same problem happened again though.
after pulling all the wiring out i switched it to "on" and pulled out the light knob to check that they still worked. it went "click", and then died. turn the key to on and nothing happens, no lights, no park brake indicator - nothing. could be the battery again, so i'm charging that.
there's a CB radio in it that is independent of the ignition. it also doesn't work. plan to follow the wiring of that tomorrow. too much staring at the thing today.
- Thread starter
- #24
i think i've found the offending wires/connections.
I was tracing the connections from the battery (having left the key in ACC) and bumped these wires and the radio came on.
These are the wires I bumped
It's too late now, and I haven't bothered to trawl through the books and diagrams to find out where they go. if anyone knows off the top of their head I'd really appreciate it. I pulled each of the connectors apart and blew all the dust that was in there and gave them a bit of a clean.
By accident while I was doing all this I had the second battery unplugged. After pulling all the added wires out it looks like it is only powering the winch now. it has this attached to it. Does anyone know what it is? (please feel free to treat me like the newb that I am - ask me about bikes and i'll help you out
)
Off to get the new tires tomorrow. and will need a few bits and pieces already - new side indicator globe, jack, tyre iron, seat cover for the front seat.
Also going to need new knobs in the dash and to give them a good work over - they're stiff as can be - but at least they all work
I was tracing the connections from the battery (having left the key in ACC) and bumped these wires and the radio came on.
These are the wires I bumped
It's too late now, and I haven't bothered to trawl through the books and diagrams to find out where they go. if anyone knows off the top of their head I'd really appreciate it. I pulled each of the connectors apart and blew all the dust that was in there and gave them a bit of a clean.
By accident while I was doing all this I had the second battery unplugged. After pulling all the added wires out it looks like it is only powering the winch now. it has this attached to it. Does anyone know what it is? (please feel free to treat me like the newb that I am - ask me about bikes and i'll help you out
)
Off to get the new tires tomorrow. and will need a few bits and pieces already - new side indicator globe, jack, tyre iron, seat cover for the front seat.
Also going to need new knobs in the dash and to give them a good work over - they're stiff as can be - but at least they all work
The thing you have circled is a solenoid. I'm no electrical genious but I believe it allows a large amperage draw to go to your winch, with only a small amount of amperage going through the switch that controls the winch. At least now that you know what it is, you can do a bit of research on-line. At least the 12 volt/24 volt issue is solved.
Might want to have all of your electrical components come off a switched power (key). Your batteries are probably being drained while the vehicle isn't running. Might also want to get the battery load tested, maybe it is getting weak and simply charging it gives you short term power.
Wow. That looks so much better with the "rats nest removed"!
You've added a lot of value to your vehicle instantly!
hhmm:But if you're like me - its dollar-value is irrelevant anyway.)
In addition to the fuses (that are in the fuseholder near your right knee - assuming its the same as my BJ40) --- Toyota used "fusible links" in the wiring to/from the battery. (I'm not talking about - in the big thick lead that goes from your starting battery to your starter - but - in the "lighter-duty" wiring connected to that same positive battery terminal.)
These "fusible links" look like pieces of ordinary wiring except they are usually short and positioned between two "connectors" (that allows them to be replaced - athough I don't think replacements are available anymore). But they act just like fuses in that they "melt to disconnect/protect wiring" in the event of "excessive current draw" (such as occurs when a wiring harness comes loose and touches a hot exhaust pipe causing the insulation to melt and a short-circuit to develop). Now these fusible links commonly "undergo mickey-mouse repairs by previous owners". And I suspect that is what may have happened where those red and white wires meet with the insulation tape covering the joint (in your photo). ---Just an idea - I could well be wrong (as usual).
Edit: --- Looking again at your photo - I think I can see two or three "fusible links" further away in that same "feed" from the positive terminal. If they haven't been tampered with - they can be easily identified by the "fabric sleeves" that sit over the wires that are used to "contain the spatter of molten metal" should they "blow". ----I believe I can see these fabric sleeves there in your photo. ........ But anyway - I'd remove that black tape and see how good the previous owner was at making and "electrically-sound joint" there. ....... I know ......I'll point it out on your photo ... Here goes:
And I see "84BJ42" says your 12/24V issue is solved. --- I can't seem to find where that occured in this thread but I would strongly expect your vehicle to be 12V anway. ---With a second battery having been installed just to "run accessories without the risk of running your starting battery flat". Such systems often use solenoids to "isolate one battery" so if that solenoid is not for your electric winch then it is probably part of a "battery isolation/charging setup" that allows your alternator to keep both batteries fully charged while preventing accessories from draining your starting battery.
Sorry lot of blurb here - But adding an extra battery does create wiring complexities.
Tracing and repairing wiring faults can be fun though. (All part of owning an old cruiser.)
You've added a lot of value to your vehicle instantly!
hhmm:But if you're like me - its dollar-value is irrelevant anyway.)In addition to the fuses (that are in the fuseholder near your right knee - assuming its the same as my BJ40) --- Toyota used "fusible links" in the wiring to/from the battery. (I'm not talking about - in the big thick lead that goes from your starting battery to your starter - but - in the "lighter-duty" wiring connected to that same positive battery terminal.)
These "fusible links" look like pieces of ordinary wiring except they are usually short and positioned between two "connectors" (that allows them to be replaced - athough I don't think replacements are available anymore). But they act just like fuses in that they "melt to disconnect/protect wiring" in the event of "excessive current draw" (such as occurs when a wiring harness comes loose and touches a hot exhaust pipe causing the insulation to melt and a short-circuit to develop). Now these fusible links commonly "undergo mickey-mouse repairs by previous owners". And I suspect that is what may have happened where those red and white wires meet with the insulation tape covering the joint (in your photo). ---Just an idea - I could well be wrong (as usual).
Edit: --- Looking again at your photo - I think I can see two or three "fusible links" further away in that same "feed" from the positive terminal. If they haven't been tampered with - they can be easily identified by the "fabric sleeves" that sit over the wires that are used to "contain the spatter of molten metal" should they "blow". ----I believe I can see these fabric sleeves there in your photo. ........ But anyway - I'd remove that black tape and see how good the previous owner was at making and "electrically-sound joint" there. ....... I know ......I'll point it out on your photo ... Here goes:
And I see "84BJ42" says your 12/24V issue is solved. --- I can't seem to find where that occured in this thread but I would strongly expect your vehicle to be 12V anway. ---With a second battery having been installed just to "run accessories without the risk of running your starting battery flat". Such systems often use solenoids to "isolate one battery" so if that solenoid is not for your electric winch then it is probably part of a "battery isolation/charging setup" that allows your alternator to keep both batteries fully charged while preventing accessories from draining your starting battery.
Sorry lot of blurb here - But adding an extra battery does create wiring complexities.
Tracing and repairing wiring faults can be fun though. (All part of owning an old cruiser.)
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- Thread starter
- #28
I thought the fusable links had plastic fuse holders in them, but
there are two plastic joins and between them are wires covered with fabric. From what you are saying I assume these wires act like fuses.
I'll pull the tape off that one once I get it registered - that's a higher priority now. (I may get itchy and have a look at it today or tomorrow.
)I picked up the Max Ellery book for this BJ, are there any other books I should take a look at?
WRT to 12/24V I can start the car and run everything with the battery connected to the solenoid in the picture above disconnected. This leads me to believe that the car is 12V and the moved air cleaner and added battery were additions from the PO.
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- Thread starter
- #29
oh, Thanks for all the help so far
Exactly
I have both the Max Ellery and Factory Manuals for my BJ40 and I prefer the factory manuals.
I think the factory manuals are still available from Toyota and I'm pretty sure they're downloadable (free) via links here on MUD.
Ooops. I have a habit of "speed reading" and often it means I don't take everything in properly. Obviously your vehicle is 12V (just as we expected) then.
And (reading previous posts more thoroughly now) if the second battery has been added "just for the winch" - I would have expected the PO to have sorted it out for getting recharged from the alternator too (just like the main battery) - So there should be wiring for that.
- Thread starter
- #31
it wasn't just for the winch. it had all the extra
py wiring on it - which in the end went no-where.- Thread starter
- #32
after driving it around a bit yesterday my ass feels like it's been through a boxing round and my back and kidneys are seriously complaining.
whenever I go over a set of train tracks or bump that affects both rear wheels the whole thing flies up in the air and then shudders for a while bouncing all over the place.
the read suspension looks a little odd to me. the rear shackles are pulled forward and are all the way up against the frame.
Anyone got any suggestions on how to smooth out the ride in the bucking bronco that is my BJ?
whenever I go over a set of train tracks or bump that affects both rear wheels the whole thing flies up in the air and then shudders for a while bouncing all over the place.
the read suspension looks a little odd to me. the rear shackles are pulled forward and are all the way up against the frame.
Anyone got any suggestions on how to smooth out the ride in the bucking bronco that is my BJ?
- Thread starter
- #33
oh and one more wiring question
There were three temp guages added to the dash - none of which were working so i've pulled them out. there were green wires coming off them (the red wires were the power) which I assume were attached to the thermometer.
All three go through the floor of the driver's footwell and then attach to parts under the BJ.
here's one.
and another
The wires currently just end and are sitting under the matt beneath the pedals. Can I simply pull them off? Does it look like bits have been added to the parts in order for the temp gauges to work?
There were three temp guages added to the dash - none of which were working so i've pulled them out. there were green wires coming off them (the red wires were the power) which I assume were attached to the thermometer.
All three go through the floor of the driver's footwell and then attach to parts under the BJ.
here's one.
and another
The wires currently just end and are sitting under the matt beneath the pedals. Can I simply pull them off? Does it look like bits have been added to the parts in order for the temp gauges to work?
Your shackles have inverted in the rear - they did so either because of bent springs, or they'r the cause of the bent springs. Either way, you need to un-invert those shackles (pop em back to vertical) and see how bad those springs are.
- Thread starter
- #35
can i just jack it up from the frame and pop them out? what should I then look for once it's back down again?
Inverting shackles are a problem that many people with lifts face - you can buy special shacks with an extra pin that will keep them from flipping up like that.
Be careful uninverting them as I bet that have a lot of tension on them!! I think most guys get a big crowbar and pop em out...
YOu may find a nasty bend in those springs when you uninvert the shackles; I can't tell if they're bent or if I'm just seeing the military wrap.
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
Get a set of anti inversion shackles.
Plenty of places around selling them.
Plenty of places around selling them.
- Thread starter
- #38
found a high lift jack - will get it done monday or tuesday. then i'll post up some picks of the leaves once it's popped back out.
- Thread starter
- #39
ok, here's the quick list from the mechanic:
Rust
LHS bullbar
Bonnett
Nose Panel
LHR wheel arch
LHR near lights
LHR window inside
In rear floor and framing
LHR door
RHR door
RHR wheel arch
RHR above lights
RH pillar near driver's seat
RHF door
In floor behind pass seat
I've put up pictures of the rust here
- RHR tail light cracked (though i think it was just dust)
- Steering joint/knuckle - loose and has play in it
- Front engine pipe cracked to exhaust - fix/replace
- Clutch slave cylinder leaking
- LH engine mount broken + moved
- RH engine mount broken
- Wheel nuts need replacing
- Driver's seat - fix or replace
- Driver's seat belt - replace
oh, and the rear spring shackles need turning
so it looks like i'm up for some serious rust removal. i'd love some suggestions for each of the bits whether to:
1. replace the part
2. cut and fill with bog
3. cut and weld over
4. find other bit from other 40 series and cut and patch
5. scrap the whole thing
6. any other ideas.
Rust
LHS bullbar
Bonnett
Nose Panel
LHR wheel arch
LHR near lights
LHR window inside
In rear floor and framing
LHR door
RHR door
RHR wheel arch
RHR above lights
RH pillar near driver's seat
RHF door
In floor behind pass seat
I've put up pictures of the rust here
- RHR tail light cracked (though i think it was just dust)
- Steering joint/knuckle - loose and has play in it
- Front engine pipe cracked to exhaust - fix/replace
- Clutch slave cylinder leaking
- LH engine mount broken + moved
- RH engine mount broken
- Wheel nuts need replacing
- Driver's seat - fix or replace
- Driver's seat belt - replace
oh, and the rear spring shackles need turning
so it looks like i'm up for some serious rust removal. i'd love some suggestions for each of the bits whether to:
1. replace the part
2. cut and fill with bog
3. cut and weld over
4. find other bit from other 40 series and cut and patch
5. scrap the whole thing
6. any other ideas.
- Thread starter
- #40
oh and myself and the mechanic couldn't get the shackles to un-invert. going to a suspension guy tomorrow.
