Help me choose my skid configuration.

[Swampmonger]

The day has come to order some skids and I need help choosing the configuration. I've been trying to order for a few weeks, but have paralyzed myself with analysis. My thoughts...

Useage:

We don't go offroading for the sake of offroading. We decide where we want to camp/hike/climb and we go there. Sometimes the road to get there is groomed gravel, sometimes it's rocky/washboard/rutted, and occasionally it's covered in water, mud, boulders and/or debris. It's that final scenario that gets me all sorts of wound up with my stock skids and no sliders. I'm tired of being mentally exhausted after a few hours of listening to my unprotected Cruiser bang into and scrape over stuff. So...Budbuilt to the rescue.

That said, if I had the armor I'd love to be able to join you guys for some organized outings. I don't see myself ever being a hardcore rock crawler, but I would like to hang out with some of you fine folks and see what these beasts can really do. Basically, I only plan on "overlanding", but if I decide to go crawling I don't want to have to question my protection.

Budget:

I've saved enough to buy anything on Bud's menu. I don't want to spend money on stuff I don't need, but for the sake of discussion all options are on the table.

My thoughts:

I'm pretty sure I want a full Stage 4 build. I can't think of anything under the truck I don't want protected.

Stainless: Put it on and be done.
Aluminum: Would there be enough margin baked in for occasional hardcore stuff or if I find myself in rougher terrain than expected?
Steel: Perfect for the application, but do I want to maintain the paint? I assume I have to pull them off anyway to lube the prop shaft so is an occasional paint touch up that big of a deal?
Lite Steel: Do I want reduced protection that still has the paint maintenance requirement?
Stainless Stage 1 with Aluminum Stage 2-4: Good compromise or overthinking it?

And to piggyback, any reason for me to upgrade to Hardcore Sliders from Standard? The 0.188 DOM is awesome, but for my application I'm assuming 0.120 is enough even with a suitable amount of margin? I don't want to add unnecessary weight, but I will if the 0.188 is worth it. If I'm going to add weight I'd rather it be down low on the protection side of the equation.

 

[18Cruiser]

I can't much because I just my LC out of the shop that put my skids on last week, but for what its worth I went with Budbuilt stage 1-4 Aluminum. My used is really camping, hunting and fishing in Texas, New Mexico and Colorado. Most of my roads are gravel but with some washed out ruts and sometimes no roads at all. I researched the heck out of the pros and cons of all the material options and here is what I came down to. I like low/no maintenance and my uses are not extreme. I basically came down to Aluminum vs Stainless.

Really don't see myself rockcrawling or hardcore stuff, but if I ever found myself in Moab I might do it one time in my life just to do it.

My thought was no need to paint and no rust issues but not the weight of stainless favored Aluminum. Others will have other opinions but I decided for my purposes Aluminum would be the least hassle and adequate protection. If I find out in the future I bash one of the plates more than the others and it gets destroyed, I might replace that plate(s) with stainless but realistically I thing Aluminum will sufficiently strong for my uses.

Like I say, mine have been on for less than a week so no real world experience with the BB Aluminum yet. Good luck.

 

[Fisher23]

If your going to bounce on sharp rocks, then Buds is the best I've seen, other than the new AEV and ARB tech stuff.

I went with ARB slid plate as it's 1/3 the price and it really tough also. With ARB you need to cut your own oil-filter inspection plate hole.
Sliders I went with SLEE.

You can lube the drive shaft without removing the skid plates.

Also I should add.. ARB makes their plates similar to American Expedition Vehicles (AEV).

There is a good you tube video on how the new AEV Bison 3 mm plate is stronger than 1/2" cold roll now. High tech stuff they now use on car roof pillars.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

@Swampmonger I don't feel you are overthinking it. The best builds are when drivers put tons of thought, balancing pros/cons/costs together to get the best configuration, for them, not others. Normally I tell people to skip the fuel tank skid, unless... they are from where you are. It wasn't until recently I started noticing that guys on logging roads of the pacific northwest where kicking up tree branches with their front tires, and puncturing fuel tanks. So now I've started telling people that you only need to "think" about (not you must) a fuel skid if you are 1) hardcore wheeler, 2) logging road/heavy fell trees areas. I myself kicked up a branch earlier this year and it abruptly stopped the 200. I was like plain confused because I was on a super calm flat path, then bam... abrupt stop. Then one of the guys behind me was like, "I think you hit a tree." Turns out, I just lifted a branch in enough mud and it caught the aluminum fuel tanks skid. So damn, glad I had it. Could the factory shield of stopped it? I don't think so. But what do I know.

Let me take a step back... I think money is better spent on fuel and time off of work to go have an adventure. Only throw money at the problem if it is going to cost you more in repairs. Then past that, it's all comfort mods. So the only real difference between stainless and regular steel is corrosion resistance.

Save money by thinking how much you actually impact your skids. Hit them twice a year, I would go with regular steel, hit them monthly or more, stainless starts making its case.

You can also mix and match. I know of a guy with an aluminum front, stainless engine, aluminum transmission, and stainless transfer case skids.

The idea is he isn’t going to plow right into a rock, but may come down on the engine area. Then he didn’t feel he would keep dragging over the obstacle so saved weight with an aluminum transmission. But for bottom out protection which happens a lot to him, went with a stainless transfer case. Saved money by sticking with factory fuel skid.

For sliders, if you like your 200, don’t get .188 DOM. That’s for rock bouncers. .120 DOM is for rock crawlers. .120 HREW is for overlanding. Remember that BudBuild sliders have 6 legs, 5 outer tube supports of 1.5” tubing (unlike other which is some thin flat plate steel). So a BudBuilt slider is so much more supported along the entire slider that it’s chances of bending are significantly reduced.

I feel the really issue with ARB skids is that they bolt to the transfer case just like the factory shield. So when you bottom out a 7,000 lbs 200 series, even during some pretty tame overland trips, you're putting that impact force on the transfer case. To put in another way, if you don't feel comfortable jacking your truck up from the transfer case, then why spend money at all on ARBs?

That's me thought, when I think if I want to spend limited funds on "improvements," then it better do more than what I already have. And ARBs, still don't protect the transfer case, they don't allow for easy routine maintenance of oil changes, and they have a ton of holes that weaken the strength.

Also, @Fisher23 while ARB and AEV stamps their skids unlike BudBuild which is a fully fabricated skid, the material you are referencing is nickel boron, which is not available from ARB. BudBuult can do nickel boron, but it gets expensive. So with ARB you still get normal (most likely Chinese or Indian) mild steel with a rather weak mounting design. @Markuson how did your ARB skid hold up.

To each their own, but for the facts of skids, and money needed for these things. I just can’t understand why anyone would want weaker armor. This isn’t at you fisher23 at all, just giving my small opinion.

 

[Whiskerz]

Tagged for interest. I have Bud Builts on my FJC and have bounced off some bigger rocks than I wanted to. I am happy with the protection.

 

[bemerritt]

Not sure if this helps, but in a similar use range I plan on Aluminum. From either bud built or Dissent. I did go with the steel sliders from Bud Built and just had them put on. Can't imagine needing the beefier DOM for anything but serious rock crawling.

 

[M1911]

That said, if I had the armor I'd love to be able to join you guys for some organized outings. I don't see myself ever being a hardcore rock crawler, but I would like to hang out with some of you fine folks and see what these beasts can really do.

That's really not necessary. I've been on two LCDC. For the first LCDC, I had 33" K02s and removed my side steps. For the second LCDC, I had BudBult rock sliders and the K02s. I didn't have aftermarket skid plates. There were some folks with completely stock 200s.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't get aftermarket skid plates. But I'd guess that many of the folks on the LCDCs were running stock skid plates. So don't think that you must have them to go on an LCDC.

 

[TeCKis300]

In the spirit of @Taco2Cruiser comment on balance.

I see you have 285/70R17, which are a 32.7" tire. What's your suspension lift situation?

I ask as perhaps you can make more clearance under your rig such that humping rocks becomes less of a concern? Or would it not make a difference in the type of off-roading you do?

There's opportunity to size up further to a ~33-34" tire, making for almost another 1" of clearance.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

For the described use, definitely go with aluminium skids. I had full steel skids on my Tacoma, and it was a HUGE amount of unnecessary weight that I very much regretted. Aluminium skids will handle what you've described just fine.

 

[rscoleman]

If I get skids I will go Aluminum. Goes to use case as said earlier. Will likely go stage 1 possibly 2.
Have fun deciding.

 

[Markuson]

@Swampmonger I feel the really issue with ARB skids is that they bolt to the transfer case just like the factory shield. So when you bottom out a 7,000 lbs 200 series, even during some pretty tame overland trips, you're putting that impact force on the transfer case. To put in another way, if you don't feel comfortable jacking your truck up from the transfer case, then why spend money at all on ARBs?

@Markuson how did your ARB skid hold up.

To each their own, but for the facts of skids, and money needed for these things. I just can’t understand why anyone would want weaker armor. This isn’t at you fisher23 at all, just giving my small opinion.

My ARBs kept falling off due to weak captive but welds.... (see below on trail where I am literally on my back, trying to reattach them using spare nuts & bolts because the welds broke. Was damgling under the truck.

Beyond that...like @Taco2Cruiser said...they were definitely transferring energy in bad places as well.
This was me last summer on a trail in Breckenridge...putting bandaids on my ARB skids:

My BudBuilt skid definitely protected me at Cruise Moab this year. Evidence shows that my catalytic converter Would have been utterly smashed had it not been for my BB skids at that point. I have the heavy stainless, and needed every bit of its strength beneath my 8000lb pig.

About over-buying... One thing I have learned about Taco is that he is not out to talk anyone into stuff they don’t need. But in my case...I needed every last bit of mine.

Other BB items I use:
After harshly testing BB’s prototype rear shock guards... I am now running BB’s revised version (Mark II I believe? ) in SS...and have beat the —— out of them. Strong as can be and unphased.

Finally... My BB rear lower control arm mount (an oddly weak point under the 200) has taken mass thrashing for over two years now, and is entirely unphased. That one is not SS, but is strong as heck, and did not even require removal of the pin at all. Bolts right on and gets hit regularly. Does its job.

 

[bemerritt]

My ARBs kept falling off due to weak captive but welds.... (see below on trail where I am literally on my back, trying to reattach them using spare nuts & bolts because the welds broke. Was damgling under the truck.

Beyond that...like @Taco2Cruiser said...they were definitely transferring energy in bad places as well.
This was me last summer on a trail in Breckenridge...putting bandaids on my ARB skids:

View attachment 2062048

My BudBuilt skid definitely protected me at Cruise Moab this year. Evidence shows that my catalytic converter Would have been utterly smashed had it not been for my BB skids at that point. I have the heavy stainless, and needed every bit of its strength beneath my 8000lb pig.

About over-buying... One thing I have learned about Taco is that he is not out to talk anyone into stuff they don’t need. But in my case...I needed every last bit of mine.

Other BB items I use:
After harshly testing BB’s prototype rear shock guards... I am now running BB’s revised version (Mark II I believe? ) in SS...and have beat the —— out of them. Strong as can be and unphased.

Finally... My BB rear lower control arm mount (an oddly weak point under the 200) has taken mass thrashing for over two years now, and is entirely unphased. That one is not SS, but is strong as heck, and did not even require removal of the pin at all. Bolts right on and gets hit regularly. Does its job.

Any idea if the lower control arm mounts and shock guards are available? Not seeing them on the site.

 

[Swampmonger]

In the spirit of @Taco2Cruiser comment on balance.

I see you have 285/70R17, which are a 32.7" tire. What's your suspension lift situation?

I ask as perhaps you can make more clearance under your rig such that humping rocks becomes less of a concern? Or would it not make a difference in the type of off-roading you do?

There's opportunity to size up further to a ~33-34" tire, making for almost another 1" of clearance.

Suspension is stock. I eventually plan on a 2" OME with UCAs and 285/75R17 KO2s.

 

[TeCKis300]

Ah. I think you may find the need for skids may be greatly lessoned by a lift. Potentially not based on your type of wheeling, but at least you may not feel like you need stage 4 tank armor.

It would be better to outright clear obstacles than to drag against them. Lift will greatly create clearance under the chassis, and even the front IFS suspension. What it won't do is create additional clearance under the rear solid axle. That's where big tires can make the best difference.

Perhaps split part of the budget and effort into lift, and some budget into strategic armor?

Heavy armor has many negative impacts to drivability. It may actually decrease clearance further as it weighs and compresses the suspension. Especially in transitions stepping downwards for example, where the added mass may further compress the suspension at each drop than a lighter setup would.

 

[Markuson]

Suspension is stock. I eventually plan on a 2" OME with UCAs and 285/75R17 KO2s.

Stock or not... a lift & tires are no substitute for skids... I’ve banged HARD with 35’s and a full lift. Impacts that are capable of doing damage tend to hit whether you’re on 32’s or 35’s.
Sure...35’s help, but rocks don’t tend to give you a pass just because they see bigger tires.

WHEN fully articulated & especially fully stuffed into a wheel well...any “lift” goes away on the stuffed side. So you can either take the hit without damage...and without getting hooked/hung up...or you can’t.

In a winching or other recovery situation, skids are not just about damage protection. They are also about creating a slide surface a winch can slide you past the obstacle. That comes down to catch points. If you are high-centered, you need that slide to get off without hooking.

 

[indycole]

Any sense of your current truck weight when on the trail? Any future plans with respect to vehicle weight?

 

[TacomaLC]

...following this thread from down in Tacoma. I'd like to hear the route you go.

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Any idea if the lower control arm mounts and shock guards are available? Not seeing them on the site.

Rumor is soon-ish. The wait will be worth it. I’m testing out some BudBuilt rear shock guards that paid for themselves twice over at LCDC.

I’m considering the stage 2 or 3 aluminum.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Rumor is soon-ish. The wait will be worth it. I’m testing out some rear shock guards that paid for themselves twice over at LCDC.

I’m considering the stage 2 or 3 aluminum.

Glad they were there when you needed them.

Land Cruiser 200 Series | Rear Shock Armor

budbuilt.com

 

[christianleeboy]

Gotta love the photo of “Drop testing in asphalt” @Taco2Cruiser will the BudBuiltlower control arm mount guard be available anytime soon?