Help identifying CV axles (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter danny23
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2001LC
SILVER Star
That is a NEW OEM It's what you get today if you buy from Toyota. Seem I see the same on factory installed also.
If getting CVJ remains. You'll want to order with Toyota OEM boots. You'll be looking at ~$300 before core refund.
Personally I just go with NEW OEM for about ~400 ($360 plus shipping or tax).
If getting CVJ remains. You'll want to order with Toyota OEM boots. You'll be looking at ~$300 before core refund.
Personally I just go with NEW OEM for about ~400 ($360 plus shipping or tax).
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Even with a small 1.5" lift you would recommend the OEM boots?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Lift or no lift the CVJ standard boots will crack soon than later.
Also remember you're getting someone old worn out axle of front drive shaft. CVJ reuses the outboard tulip which axle is part of. The teeth/splines of axle will be worn, all used are. CVJ paints both ends black. This black paint needs removing , which is difficult to do from splines. The paint will make axle to hub flange very sung in most cases. But the paint will quickly wear down. Then you've play in hub flange that you do not want.
Also, groove hub flange snap ring fits in, is rounded and widen in many I've seen, and can barely hold the snap ring.
If you must go remain CVJ is said to be "top shelf". They do and excellent job with milling out the bearing surface, yielding good CV's. Toyota no-longer sell us the outboard tulip/axle. So the axles are something they can't do anything about.
Then you've what looks like aftermarket. They likely will not give you the core charge refund. So, with OEM boots and shipping you'll be in this for near the cost of new OEM.
Some have reported they like the NAPA aftermarkets.
Me I go for OEM every-time with new side seal on diff, hub flanges, cone washers and grease cap..
Also remember you're getting someone old worn out axle of front drive shaft. CVJ reuses the outboard tulip which axle is part of. The teeth/splines of axle will be worn, all used are. CVJ paints both ends black. This black paint needs removing , which is difficult to do from splines. The paint will make axle to hub flange very sung in most cases. But the paint will quickly wear down. Then you've play in hub flange that you do not want.
Also, groove hub flange snap ring fits in, is rounded and widen in many I've seen, and can barely hold the snap ring.
If you must go remain CVJ is said to be "top shelf". They do and excellent job with milling out the bearing surface, yielding good CV's. Toyota no-longer sell us the outboard tulip/axle. So the axles are something they can't do anything about.
Then you've what looks like aftermarket. They likely will not give you the core charge refund. So, with OEM boots and shipping you'll be in this for near the cost of new OEM.
Some have reported they like the NAPA aftermarkets.
Me I go for OEM every-time with new side seal on diff, hub flanges, cone washers and grease cap..
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah my situation is bad enough that I am planning to replace just about everything I can because I do not trust the work that 4WP did on the truck. But really you can't blame them, they are a high turnover, shop and really they only specialize in Jeeps.Lift or no lift the CVJ standard boots will crack soon than later.
Also remember you're getting someone old worn out axle of front drive shaft. CVJ reuses the outboard tulip which axle is part of. The teeth/splines of axle will be worn, all used are. CVJ paints both ends black. This black paint needs removing , which is difficult to do from splines. The paint will make axle to hub flange very sung in most cases. But the paint will quickly wear down. Then you've play in hub flange that you do not want.
Also, groove hub flange snap ring fits in, is rounded and widen in many I've seen, and can barely hold the snap ring.
If you must go remain CVJ is said to be "top shelf". They do and excellent job with milling out the bearing surface, yielding good CV's. Toyota no-longer sell us the outboard tulip/axle. So the axles are something they can't do anything about.
Then you've what looks like aftermarket. They likely will not give you the core charge refund. So, with OEM boots and shipping you'll be in this for near the cost of new OEM.
Some have reported they like the NAPA aftermarkets.
Me I go for OEM every-time with new side seal on diff, hub flanges, cone washers and grease cap..
I looked into the Napa aftermarkets and they are Cardone HD axles with just the NAPA name stamped on them (and extra charges). If you look at the "warranty" link on the axles page for them you will be greeted with the Cardone warranty slip. You can literally purchase the same Cardone HD axles from Rockauto, new, for about $40 less.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Interesting about the NAPA.
4WP or anyone working on these especial with when modifying, create problems 8 out of 10 times.
I do a lot of new OEM install. I really don't like to install any others. I did once take a good set to CVJ to have rebuilt. Ones I knew axle where very good. At the time I did not know CVJ offered OEM boots, or would have gone with them.
Here's a restored front end with all OEM parts.
Here's in need of restoring to remove the D to R clunk..
4WP or anyone working on these especial with when modifying, create problems 8 out of 10 times.
I do a lot of new OEM install. I really don't like to install any others. I did once take a good set to CVJ to have rebuilt. Ones I knew axle where very good. At the time I did not know CVJ offered OEM boots, or would have gone with them.
Here's a restored front end with all OEM parts.
Here's in need of restoring to remove the D to R clunk..
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
@2001LC I couldn't agree more. Even some of the "4WD Specialty" places you really have to hound them to do things properly. The fact that on both installs they charged the PO $150 in labor (when most shops charge $75-$150/hr. for labor) makes be believe that they literally ripped the old out and slapped these in. Hence the c-clip, no preload, jacked up hub flanges, etc.
Are you referring to this 43460-69145 shaft and joint assembly? They seem to be available from a few Toyota sites that I checked.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I was referring to just the outer tulip which has just outer axle. You could go with the joint assembly (outer tulip w/axle, center axle and boots). But as you can see by price of ~$200, that is more than a re-builder charges for a whole rebuilt CV (front drive shaft (FDS)). So it's a sure bet they will not replace it with new OEM. So we always get a used outer axle from in re-builders, at least all I've seen.
You could supply the joint assembly and a used FDS. Rebuild could the hone out the used inner tulip and replace it's bearings. But now your at cost of new OEM.
My test of a CVJ FDS is how well a new hub flange fits and condition of snap ring groove.
You could supply the joint assembly and a used FDS. Rebuild could the hone out the used inner tulip and replace it's bearings. But now your at cost of new OEM.
My test of a CVJ FDS is how well a new hub flange fits and condition of snap ring groove.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
So thought I would throw this out there...
One of the guys in another thread posted up some pics of the hub flange ends of his axle;
one aftermarket (CARDONE HD), and
one OEM Toyota
(post I am referring too)
The thing he noticed and wondering if others can possibly help with pics, is that on the aftermarket vs. OEM the bevel at the VERY end of the splines between the snap ring gap and the edge/end of the axle face is different. The bevel on the OEM is quite a bit more drastic (more slack or a greater angle) vs. the aftermarket being almost FLAT (steep angle). Could others with axles available take pictures!
One of the guys in another thread posted up some pics of the hub flange ends of his axle;
one aftermarket (CARDONE HD), and
one OEM Toyota
(post I am referring too)
The thing he noticed and wondering if others can possibly help with pics, is that on the aftermarket vs. OEM the bevel at the VERY end of the splines between the snap ring gap and the edge/end of the axle face is different. The bevel on the OEM is quite a bit more drastic (more slack or a greater angle) vs. the aftermarket being almost FLAT (steep angle). Could others with axles available take pictures!
2001LC
SILVER Star
End bevel is unimportant. What is important is a good snap ring groove with sharp 90 degree angles and good teeth (splines) of axle, that neither are worn down.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Right... completely understand that... I am looking at this as an identification point for OEM vs. Other. Say you go with aftermarket rebuilt and are curious if they are Toyota cores. Looking to see if this would be an identification point, so like those that purchase from Detroit Axle or CVJ or another company that remanufactures/rebuilds the axles and you are just getting whatever.
