Help! Fan clutch won't come out!
- Thread starter Qball
- Start date
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Once you get the fan coupler loose, you can take the shroud and the fan out together. Kinda control the fan so it won't bash the radiator fins and pull them up together. I should think if the 4 bolts are out, taking a metal or wood dowel and a few sharp raps with a hammer would break it loose. Consider putting a towel over the fan blades or a similar strategy to again prevent if from popping loose and bashing the radiator fins.
DougM
DougM
inkpot
SILVER Star
With the nuts off of the clutch, you should be able to grab the fan blades and rock the whole assembly back and forth to free it from the water pump pulley shaft. I remove the two bolts that hold the top of the shroud to the tank and lean it back towards the engine. It leaves enough room at the upper passenger corner to lift the fan clutch assembly out without removing the shroud. I can even do this on my rig with a super charger, which takes up a lot more room. John
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys!
I finally got it off. It was tight and very little space in there so I used rubber mallet trying to tap it out and I think I pushed only one side out and wedged it in there tight. I was going to call it a night so I put the nuts back on and I saw it straighten out and the gap on the other side got wider. With a flat tip screw driver I got it out no more than a minute after that.
I thought it was bolted on by the 4 bolts and didn't realize it sit on a short spindle too, gotta love toyota over engineering! It is draining the garage now and tomorrow I hope to have that roaring fan noise when it gets hot out side.
Just wondering if anyone know this, after reading all the fan clutch thread I thought I seen all the fan clutch. But mine does not have aisan marking but looks like one, then the inside looks like the aisan. Also I did not have the 6 Philips screws and instead I had 4 torque screws which is awesome. Anyone knows if it is Oem clutch? Looks that way with no marking on the 4 nuts before I touched it.
I finally got it off. It was tight and very little space in there so I used rubber mallet trying to tap it out and I think I pushed only one side out and wedged it in there tight. I was going to call it a night so I put the nuts back on and I saw it straighten out and the gap on the other side got wider. With a flat tip screw driver I got it out no more than a minute after that.
I thought it was bolted on by the 4 bolts and didn't realize it sit on a short spindle too, gotta love toyota over engineering! It is draining the garage now and tomorrow I hope to have that roaring fan noise when it gets hot out side.
Just wondering if anyone know this, after reading all the fan clutch thread I thought I seen all the fan clutch. But mine does not have aisan marking but looks like one, then the inside looks like the aisan. Also I did not have the 6 Philips screws and instead I had 4 torque screws which is awesome. Anyone knows if it is Oem clutch? Looks that way with no marking on the 4 nuts before I touched it.
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Pics???
That's an Eaton fan clutch. It's OEM on the later model trucks. I believe 15,000 CST is what people generally put in those.
Looks like an Eaton
Per ToolsRUs:
I see 4 main categories:
1, Old type black/blue hub Aisin clutches. These are the strongest, respond well to viscosity change. All have reported great performance with 10K.
2, Original Eaton clutches. There are slightly weaker, running fluid in the 12.5-15K range is working well in them.
3, New type blue hub Aisin clutches. Our experience is; these are the weakest, have to step up on the viscosity to see results. Most are reporting good results at 20K+. A couple are running 30K, I have not had the chance to travel/wheel with them to compare performance and haven't tried it.
4, Supercharged rigs. Here the fan is most important, the clutch secondary. I have seen very tight clutch equipped rigs, have issues when running the ring fan. The first fan that I have seen work well enough for desert climate is the 3FE fan, the results are early, but looks good.
I see 4 main categories:
1, Old type black/blue hub Aisin clutches. These are the strongest, respond well to viscosity change. All have reported great performance with 10K.
2, Original Eaton clutches. There are slightly weaker, running fluid in the 12.5-15K range is working well in them.
3, New type blue hub Aisin clutches. Our experience is; these are the weakest, have to step up on the viscosity to see results. Most are reporting good results at 20K+. A couple are running 30K, I have not had the chance to travel/wheel with them to compare performance and haven't tried it.
4, Supercharged rigs. Here the fan is most important, the clutch secondary. I have seen very tight clutch equipped rigs, have issues when running the ring fan. The first fan that I have seen work well enough for desert climate is the 3FE fan, the results are early, but looks good.
sledge916
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- Thread starter
- #11
Doh! I ordered the 10k fluid, my eaton clutch work well with 10k or should I order 15k fluid?
I think it will be fine. Just depends on how aggressive you want to be.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks, i'll give 10k a try. I really don't drive that aggressive and just want to make sure I don't over head in the summer.
I got up to 200 in traffic, it's not horrible but I figure after 190k it's due.
My Eaton was pretty much shot even after replacing the fluid. I wound up getting a blue hub and modding it with 20k. Hopefully you have better luck.
I also just modded my eaton 2 weeks ago. I went all the way to 20k and it hasn't made much difference, I think mine may be shot as well. I've heard very mixed results on modding eatons... Some it works well, while many others just end up buying a blue hub to mod in the end. It's looking like that is the route I will go too. Best of luck to you! It may work fine.
FYI, I drained 33ml and put 35ml back in the first time and had a very weak result with more overheating than before. I read some have put 55-60ml back in on the eatons. I went to 56ml and it made a lot of difference, just still not the performance I was hoping for. Look forward to hearing your results... At worse, you get VERY quick at removing, installing and even splitting the clutch
FYI, I drained 33ml and put 35ml back in the first time and had a very weak result with more overheating than before. I read some have put 55-60ml back in on the eatons. I went to 56ml and it made a lot of difference, just still not the performance I was hoping for. Look forward to hearing your results... At worse, you get VERY quick at removing, installing and even splitting the clutch
Hmm. Maybe I didn't fill mine enough. Whatever, the blue hub has a nice roar on startup and it wasn't that expensive.
- Thread starter
- #17
Quick update: Filled it with a whole bottle of 10k and it has more resistance to twisting by hand but it also has a lot more fluid in the clutch area than before. Put it in and heard the roar everyone talked about when I first started it, keep in mind most of the 59ml of fluid is still in the clutch area. Drove it around till operating temp and parked it for 15 minutes and when I started her up again and no roar but when I stand in front of the hood I do hear the fan as before I don't think could hear the fan. Not roaring by any means but I think it is better than before and since it is nice and cool 65 degrees out it's not a bad thing.
So my conclusion is that I think it is working better than before but not as aggressive as some of you guys would of liked. Tomorrow is kinda warm so I'll drive it in traffic and see how it goes and let you guys know if there is any marked improvement. I might just order some 20k or 30k to mix in with the current fluid.
Side note this clutch seems to have quite a bit of fluid capacity so maybe I'll add some 30k on top of the existing 10k fluid.
So my conclusion is that I think it is working better than before but not as aggressive as some of you guys would of liked. Tomorrow is kinda warm so I'll drive it in traffic and see how it goes and let you guys know if there is any marked improvement. I might just order some 20k or 30k to mix in with the current fluid.
Side note this clutch seems to have quite a bit of fluid capacity so maybe I'll add some 30k on top of the existing 10k fluid.
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Thanks for the update, hope it performs when temps rise. As for the roar, I hear eatons typically will only roar once and then IIRC, something to do with the anti-drain back they don't typically roar much after that, but can still be moving air.
- Thread starter
- #19
Another quick update: Cold start this morning and no roar! In fact it's as quiet as before but I do think it is pushing a bit more air than before.
So hopefully I'll be able to drive in warmer conditions to test out the change soon.
So hopefully I'll be able to drive in warmer conditions to test out the change soon.
I've read the Eatons are designed to drain while not running so they don't have the roar. I put mine in the oven and turned it by hand. I could not get it to lock up.
