(HELP) Dreaded Single Click, Again (1 Viewer)

[KNOXroll]

Hey everyone, year long lurker here and finally posting to see if I can get some help.

I've got a '94 VX Limited that's been giving me this problem for the past 6 months or so.
I've had the starter replaced 5 times (under warranty), recently got new wiring for the alternator (ProToy in Knoxville), and I've replaced the battery.
Every now and then (seemingly at the worst possible time) I get a single click and no crank. My electronics/dash light up, and I hear a slight whirring, but no start.
There's been a couple times where I've let it sit over night and came back and it started, however, there's no rhyme or reason to when it starts or doesn't.

I drove around to get groceries last night, parked and went to bed. This morning I woke up and replaced the oil. Went to start it up to circulate the oil and just that single, god-awful, click...

I've scoured this whole website up and down for this issue, taken her to several shops/electricians and no dice. I'm hoping it could be something as simple as the starter relay, but wanted to make a post in case anyone else had any sage advice (besides selling it, trust me, i'm already thinking of that...). Also, most posts i've seen are from the american market, and I don't know if mine being straight from Japan (RHD and all) will make any difference in voltage/repair requirements.

 

[KYLXFJ]

Any weird sensors perhaps like shifter etc to make sure car is in park or someone similar? Any signs of an aftermarket security system or remote start that was added and maybe partially removed or signs of removal?

 

[South Texas 97]

Neutral/Park safety switch /wiring is a possibility, but get ahold of the electrical manual for your specific truck. Better than throwing the parts cannon at it. Possible loose or rusted ground as well.

 

[KNOXroll]

Any weird sensors perhaps like shifter etc to make sure car is in park or someone similar? Any signs of an aftermarket security system or remote start that was added and maybe partially removed or signs of removal?

Nope, none that I can see. There's always been this extra ground on the battery that looks like it was from the last owner's audio setup.

 

[KYLXFJ]

Do you have a meter? Also yes, south texas 97 has the correct term for park/etc issue. Lol

 

[KNOXroll]

Neutral/Park safety switch /wiring is a possibility, but get ahold of the electrical manual for your specific truck. Better than throwing the parts cannon at it. Possible loose or rusted ground as well.

I tried starting it in neutral to diagnose if the safety switch is out and didn't get anything :/
I can hear the tape deck tracking and all electrical coming on, the small click from the starter but no crank or thud from solenoid.

By rusted ground, do you mean to the battery terminal? I went ahead and checked the fitment, and it was good, but it is looking a little rusty.

 

[KNOXroll]

Do you have a meter? Also yes, south texas 97 has the correct term for park/etc issue. Lol

Not on me, but I can bike down to the local Advance Auto and pick one up.

Yea, I'm afraid i've already shot a couple volleys of that "parts cannon"

 

[Bogart]

I’m assuming this is an obd1 truck?

 

[OffRoadScott]

Nope, none that I can see. There's always been this extra ground on the battery that looks like it was from the last owner's audio setup.

View attachment 3049033

I would be a little suspect of the corrosion on that make shift negative cable. You can buy replacement ones at your local automotive parts store. Along with the neutral safety switch, is there a chance the fusible link is going bad?

Maybe a better picture of your grounds from the battery to the block might help as well. Have you checked all the grounds inside the engine bay themself, loose or corrosion could/would be an issue too.

 

[KNOXroll]

I’m assuming this is an obd1 truck?

Yeup, been a hassle for a couple local garages that only service 2

 

[KNOXroll]

I would be a little suspect of the corrosion on that make shift negative cable. You can buy replacement ones at your local automotive parts store. Along with the neutral safety switch, is there a chance the fusible link is going bad?

Maybe a better picture of your grounds from the battery to the block might help as well. Have you checked all the grounds inside the engine bay themself, loose or corrosion could/would be an issue too.

Could I just remove the extra ground? It only has the stock system and a little single DIN stereo in it.

I wasn't able to start it using the neutral, so is it possible for the safety switch to be bad??
I haven't checked all the grounds, but I could probably find a video/diagram with them.

I was able to start it about an hour ago and it ran fine. Took it on a short drive.
I'm gonna go on a short drive later and see if it starts again.

Either way, making an appointment at a local shop to replace the link, starter solenoid and battery wiring

 

[ToyotaMatt]

if you turn out to have a bad solenoid ?

please consider us here .........

can ship out on tuesday 1st thing


thanks

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[effjay80]

Everything in the fuse box check out okay? Including the contacts in the box where fuses/relays plug into? My 100 series had exact same issue and turned out to be fuse and contacts in the box issue.

As above check that ground to chassis connection from battery too.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Could I just remove the extra ground? It only has the stock system and a little single DIN stereo in it.

I wasn't able to start it using the neutral, so is it possible for the safety switch to be bad??
I haven't checked all the grounds, but I could probably find a video/diagram with them.

I was able to start it about an hour ago and it ran fine. Took it on a short drive.
I'm gonna go on a short drive later and see if it starts again.

Either way, making an appointment at a local shop to replace the link, starter solenoid and battery wiring

The size of the radio doesn't make a difference. That ground is actually a factory ground that has nothing to do with the stereo.

I would get the factory service manual and read up on how to test the neutral safety switch before throwing parts at it.

Dont waste our money by having someone else do that easy work. You can buy the fusible link from @NLXTACY at Absolute Wits End and that ground you can get at AutoZone or Oreilly or any parts store. You can also make one yourself if you have the crimps and source the proper sized ends.

 

[ppc]

Could I just remove the extra ground? It only has the stock system and a little single DIN stereo in it.

No, that is not an extra ground that is the standard body ground. The OEM wire has been replaced by what looks to be a larger gauge wire, I would remove the wire where it attaches, eliminate any corrosion and reattach. It may not be the cause of your problem but eliminate the small stuff rather than throwing parts at the problem.

 

[OffRoadScott]

@KNOXroll send me a PM with your email so I can send you the file with the testing for the neutral safety switch.

 

[gorbilax]

FWIW, I had these exact symptoms... it drove me nuts happening intermittently for over a year. It was 100% the neutral safety switch. I replaced it and haven't had an issue since.