ABS end fittings are indeed different.
Good call.
Good call.
Help! Brake Lines Leaking at Flares (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Will Van
- Start date
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Will Van
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- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks for all of the help guys! I was able to finish the ABS/LSPV delete and bleed the brakes with zero leaks!
I attempted the least invasive solution first - tighten the fittings using a crescent wrench to hold the tee/90, while snugging up the nut with a flare wrench (instead of just trying to hold the fitting with your hands and snug the nut with the flare wrench). This small adjustment netted about a 1/4 turn more threads, and now the fittings are bone dry.
I was also having a lot of trouble bleeding the lines. I was using a power bleeder at the reservoir and a piece of clear tubing (like you use in a fish tank) from the bleeder nipple into a old glass jar. I would crack open the bleeder and get clean fluid, then a bunch of air bubbles in the clear tubing. I went through 2 quarts of fluid before I realized what was happening. The clear tubing I was using didn't compress much at the bleed nipple (even with a worm gear hose clamp) and I was getting an air leak at the connection. Every time I started pumping fluid through the lines, I would suck air at the connection. I randomly turned off the radio and finally heard it sucking air at the nipple. I switched to conventional 1/4" rubber line with a spring clamp. This worked like a charm. Pump up the power bleeder, crack open the line, purge all the air, continue purging until I'm getting nice clean fluid and no air bubbles, close the bleeder. Once I got it dialed in, only took about 30 minutes to bleed the rest of the lines.
This is the type of hose I was using before that was sucking air.
Thanks again for all of the help! I'm glad it was something as simple as, "Tighten the fittings, you dweeb."
I attempted the least invasive solution first - tighten the fittings using a crescent wrench to hold the tee/90, while snugging up the nut with a flare wrench (instead of just trying to hold the fitting with your hands and snug the nut with the flare wrench). This small adjustment netted about a 1/4 turn more threads, and now the fittings are bone dry.
I was also having a lot of trouble bleeding the lines. I was using a power bleeder at the reservoir and a piece of clear tubing (like you use in a fish tank) from the bleeder nipple into a old glass jar. I would crack open the bleeder and get clean fluid, then a bunch of air bubbles in the clear tubing. I went through 2 quarts of fluid before I realized what was happening. The clear tubing I was using didn't compress much at the bleed nipple (even with a worm gear hose clamp) and I was getting an air leak at the connection. Every time I started pumping fluid through the lines, I would suck air at the connection. I randomly turned off the radio and finally heard it sucking air at the nipple. I switched to conventional 1/4" rubber line with a spring clamp. This worked like a charm. Pump up the power bleeder, crack open the line, purge all the air, continue purging until I'm getting nice clean fluid and no air bubbles, close the bleeder. Once I got it dialed in, only took about 30 minutes to bleed the rest of the lines.
This is the type of hose I was using before that was sucking air.
Thanks again for all of the help! I'm glad it was something as simple as, "Tighten the fittings, you dweeb."
When I use clear tube I snip a half inch off each time so the bleeder connection is airtight. No clamps and it works well.
Glad things are going well and the leaks stopped .
Glad things are going well and the leaks stopped .
Pete, I reverted back to vacuum boost after finding my hydroboost cylinder was leaking. That and with the hydro assist steering it was a little taxing on the power steering pump.
