Hell Creek Suspension - FJ 62

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The kit came really complete and the springs look great. I bought greaseable shackles from MAF and steel brake lines from Spector and had the front u-bolts cut at Lafayette Springs here in Lafayette, Louisiana.

I'm not following; The kit was complete, but you had to other source the shackles, brake lines, and u-bolts. Do you happen to know; will the final HC "kit" include shackles, brake lines, and u-bolts?

If it is cost-competitive, I will be looking at it with one hand on my credit card.
 
I'm not following; The kit was complete, but you had to other source the shackles, brake lines, and u-bolts. Do you happen to know; will the final HC "kit" include shackles, brake lines, and u-bolts?

If it is cost-competitive, I will be looking at it with one hand on my credit card.

The kit came with the front and rear springs, sway bar drop kit, transmission cross member drop kit, Rough Country shocks and the rear u-bolts. When they made the front u-bolts, they made them too narrow so I just used my own. The full kit in the future will have those front u-bolts included.

I upgraded to stainless, extended length brake lines from Specter and bought greaseable shackles from Man-A-Fre.

The install took us about 5 hours all together. I started on Thursday by hitting all the bolts with PB Blaster. Saturday morning, a handful of us from BSLCA got together for a wrenching session. We had the wheels off the ground by 8:30 and basically all the components we had to remove came off with relative ease. We were fortunate with that. Seven of us got after it and by about 1, we were done and made the first drive.

Really, the two things that were the most time consuming were the brake lines, meaning getting the old ones off and new ones on and all the lines bled. What made it difficult was basically trying to work the tools and hands up in those tight quarters. The other part that took some time was dropping the transmission and keeping the new blocks in line to run the bolts through.

The rest seemed pretty easy, but that had to do with the great guys I had helping me, and Volunteer's fully loaded shop!

 
The kit came with ... transmission cross member drop kit. The other part that took some time was dropping the transmission and keeping the new blocks in line to run the bolts through.

How much does this drop the transmission?

I'm guessing that dropping the transmission is to improve the rear driveshaft angles by reducing them. But as I envision the lowering of the tranny for the benefit of the rear shaft the front shaft angles would be increased. Yes?

Did you think about a test drive before adding in the drop kit to see if it was needed?

I ask out of curiosity.
 
We ran it before dropping the tranny and it vibrated a lot. We came back, dropped it and it leveled out the whole thing and I haven't had any vibration since. The kit came with 4 bars that dropped it 2.5 inches.
 
Tranny drop kit?? Should be cross member drop.... dropping the cross member is to gain front drive line clearances needed on lifts 4" or more.... rear bad vibes can be corrected with diff. shims....
 
Tranny drop kit?? Should be cross member drop.... dropping the cross member is to gain front drive line clearances needed on lifts 4" or more.... rear bad vibes can be corrected with diff. shims....

Yes, but with the 62's auto dropping the member with the included brackets solves the vibration issues in the front and rear. It could be resolved with shims but takes the guess work out, even with measureing the angles to get the correct shims don't mean you'll get it on the first try. Dropping the cross member was much easier and resolved the vibrations both in the front and rear.
 
I wouldn't want my transfer case lowered :frown: Why lift 4" and lower an important component 2.5" :confused:
 
I wouldn't want my transfer case lowered :frown: Why lift 4" and lower an important component 2.5" :confused:

Most folks want the added ground clearence from the larger tires, and then you have those that just want the look :eek: Marty can post up pics of it lowered but in my opinion its not a drastic drop. Sometimes you have to give to receive :) We'll count how many times Marty drags it over the rocks at the crawl to let you know if it hampers performance.
 
cajun, can you please post a pic of this cross member drop? I can't picture what this looks like.
 
Wow, there is no way in hell i would drop my crossmember at all. I beat the s*** out of it as it is.
 
It would be easy to work around the tranny/case drops if you chose not to run them. As simple as driveshaft mods or shimming the axles as complex as a cut and turn. I turned my rear axle up a bit when I did my full floater.

I'm anxious to see how the springs work. It's easy to customize the rest of the lift kit to fit your individual needs.
 
Im still not seeing the point in dropping the crossmember. Maybe some pics will enlighten me.
 
Think driveline angles. Drop crossmember: decreases the angles on the driveshaft.

Ya i understand the theory behind it, but what i dont see is why if you have the springs apart you wouldnt add a shim, rather than drop your vulnerable drivetrain even lower than it already is.

Ive got in the neighborhood of 3 inches of lift and my driveline angles are very modest.
 
Ya i understand the theory behind it, but what i dont see is why if you have the springs apart you wouldnt add a shim, rather than drop your vulnerable drivetrain even lower than it already is.

Ive got in the neighborhood of 3 inches of lift and my driveline angles are very modest.

Me either, me too. But that's the theory.
 
If you can run a SOA truck with the tcase in the stock location, then i think you would probably be ok SUA.
 
I'm having difficulty in seeing how dropping the transfer case, which is where the driveshafts connect, would improve the front driveline angles. As the t-case is lowered the whole engine/tranny/t-case package will be rotating around the front engine mounts. Therefore as the t-case is dropped the u-joint angle at the front output would increase, if I am picturing this correctly.

Another note: I don't think the t-case drop mod will work on early FJ60s since they have a different style crossmember, one that bolts up between the framerails.
 

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