Builds Hell and High Water - A Build

[BurntToast]

So something I've been working on over the course of the winter has been developing the wiring for the truck itself as well as the engine and all of the ancillary items that come along with it.

I've put many hours learning and then developing the schematics to make this happen, and soon I will be putting turning it all real. The start of all of this came from deciding what I wanted to do for the engine harness, systems like the Holley Terminator are great systems but I just couldn't justify the cost for the essentially stock 5.3/4l60 going in. Any adjustments needed will be able to be done on the stock PCM and will be more than sufficient.

So with that said I started looking at companies like PSI who offer harnesses that when all said and done are $600+ and you still have the same ugly and cheap fuse and relay block that you get on a $99 ebay harness, again not seeing the value for my needs meet my expectations in quality.

So this is what I've landed on, my decision allows me to build what I want, get the options that I want in it, with the quality components that makes the final product meet my expectations. I don't want to completely reinvent the wheel here so I'm starting with an ebay harness as my base building block, this essentially gets me the wire I need with a basic layout already started, and most of the connectors that I will be using. From there adding items like Bussman RTMRs for the main relay panel as well as a secondary fuse panel for current needs and future additions. With those I will be using Blue Sea products for grounding, GEP sealed relay housings for larger relayed circuits like the cooling fans, and some marine grade breakers for the main connection to the battery.

I want to make this extremely modular for easy removal and to make it easy to add circuits down the road, this will be done with more seal Aptiv connectors to stay consistent with those on the engine already. I have also designed a full AC control circuit as well as provisions for cruise control, DBW, and the TCC circuit. A NSS and reverse light harness has been built already too. Trying to get ahead of this to make it as well thought out as possible when it comes time to build.

I've got sheets and sheets of schematics laid out in CAD, below is just one example of the two main Bussman RTMRs. I have been building a supplemental "manual" so down the road if issues pop up I wont be left trying to remember what I did, this includes the electrical and mechanical side of things that have changed with the swap.

More to follow up with on this, I'm hoping to get all of this information somewhere when its completed as its quite in depth. Just the begining of this process, very excited for the stage to come.

Glad to see someone engineering a nice custom solution. What software are you using for your diagrams? I am using visio and its kinda of a pain, but i dont want to buy a personal autocad license either...

 

[cruisermatt]

Nice plan. That is a lot of work to do - I do the same thing with my builds, I just start with PSI as a base as I am a dealer for them. I agree most of the harness builders use the cheapest components. Keep in mind the PCM doesn't have provisions for NSS and reverse (since it doesn't control cranking or have a reverse output for lights) so those will integrate with the body electrical. I do sell a plug and play for that if your reverse connector is still in good shape, but if you know how to buy Aptiv part numbers then you can easily make the same thing for a lot less cost.

Also, you asked about the TCC wiring awhile back, the answer on that is even the GM schematic shows it the one way, either way works, the PCM just needs to see a change. I have several dozen customers driving around with the TCC wired "wrong".

 

[gregkline55]

Glad to see someone engineering a nice custom solution. What software are you using for your diagrams? I am using visio and its kinda of a pain, but i dont want to buy a personal autocad license either...

Engineer by trade, using AutoCAD Civil 3D for these as that is what I run everyday. Plus the upside is its free to me lol.....

Nice plan. That is a lot of work to do - I do the same thing with my builds, I just start with PSI as a base as I am a dealer for them. I agree most of the harness builders use the cheapest components. Keep in mind the PCM doesn't have provisions for NSS and reverse (since it doesn't control cranking or have a reverse output for lights) so those will integrate with the body electrical. I do sell a plug and play for that if your reverse connector is still in good shape, but if you know how to buy Aptiv part numbers then you can easily make the same thing for a lot less cost.

Also, you asked about the TCC wiring awhile back, the answer on that is even the GM schematic shows it the one way, either way works, the PCM just needs to see a change. I have several dozen customers driving around with the TCC wired "wrong".

NSS and reverse lights I will have wired just like you do, and again love that you put the time and effort in to build these products but I know Aptiv products well and have all the tools needed so I will always do that type of stuff on my own.

As for the TCC I still find that so interesting, if you have than many people running them like that then it must work. For my piece of mind I'm just going to run it as the GM schematic says by using a relay.

 

[cruisermatt]

Have you already picked a SSR for that? Are you integrating it with your panel? Looking forwards to seeing the components you use.

 

[BurntToast]

May not matter in this application, but I have seen SSRs commonly have ~2v drop for the load. I know I’m some higher current application that dumps a bunch of heat into the relay

 

[gregkline55]

Have you already picked a SSR for that? Are you integrating it with your panel? Looking forwards to seeing the components you use.

May not matter in this application, but I have seen SSRs commonly have ~2v drop for the load. I know I’m some higher current application that dumps a bunch of heat into the relay

Plan is the just use a standard automotive 5 pin relay thats triggered by signal from the brake light circuit, signal to the PCM at rest going through 87a.

Just going to be running this in a GEP sealed relay box that shares the relays for the fans

 

[gregkline55]

Got a lot done today, after giving the front lower crossmember and the fender tubs a few days to cure I got them back bolted up. Starting to look like a truck again... kinda. After getting those in I pulled the transmission and transfer case, need to clean up and paint the trans then finalize the linkages for the twin sticks. I messed up when I put the transfer case back together and didn't install the new 4WD shift shaft that came with the twin stick setup, so going to make some lemonade and weld up the new shaft end on to the old shaft. Pics later will probably help explain this.

 

[gregkline55]

Today I got to finalizing the twin sticks by finishing up the connection to the 2WD/4WD shaft. I cut the original one back to the groove that holds the boot, chamfered the edge a bunch to allow some good penetration into the metal, did the same on the new clevis end. Got the TIG out and welded it up and put the boost back on it.

A little test fit with the twin sticks on to make sure all is smooth and not binding. Here it is all together

Levers in H/2:

Levers in L/4:

Then when I finished that up I got the transmission itself all cleaned up and painted to match the engine. Still need to buy a new pan for it, as well as for the engine. Go to there seems to be the chevy performance pan or an H3 pan.

Next up is finish welding the transmission mounts, for this I think I'm going to get it up on the lift and over the course of a weekend I'll clean up and coat the frame front to back.

 

[cruisermatt]

Do the twin sticks come pre-bent like that now?

 

[gregkline55]

Do the twin sticks come pre-bent like that now?

Nope, bent them up while it was all still in the truck

 

[gregkline55]

So went to the shop tonight and finished welding the transmission mounts now that I have the drivetrain fully out, easy enough, no pics but looking good. Next step will be cleaning up the frame and coating it.

After that I had to tackle fixing a broken stud on the transfer case adapter, at some point over that last year and a half one of the studs on the transfer case adapter broke, I have no idea when or how it broke but one day it was gone. Easy enough fix, unbolt it and it just pulls off, screwed out the rest of the broken stud, and then put it back together.

So up to that point it was all good, but I start re-tightening the studs on the adapter, like snugging them up, and ANOTHER one snaps off.

I have no idea where AA got this hardware but its garbage, so will be replacing all four with some new, stronger ones.

 

[cruisermatt]

Highly recommend helicoiling the adapter. We throw all of the AA hardware away and use new OEM GM hardware for everything.
It’s less expensive per bolt then generic hardware store 10.9 and gives everything a nice OEM look

 

[gregkline55]

Started cleaning up the frame, at least back to as far as the transfer case sits, and coated it with Coroseal to there tonight, getting that portion done so soon I can get the drivetrain back in once and for all.

Then decided that since I have the interior apart this far I should pull the sections of the HVAC system so that I can clean and re-foam them. Started with the blower box, this foam was dicintegrating away as I touched it...

Cleaned off that old foam at the shop then biked it back home to clean it and prep it for some new foam.

Looking nice and fresh again, ready for foam.

 

[LETSROLLEM]

Started cleaning up the frame, at least back to as far as the transfer case sits, and coated it with Coroseal to there tonight, getting that portion done so soon I can get the drivetrain back in once and for all.

Then decided that since I have the interior apart this far I should pull the sections of the HVAC system so that I can clean and re-foam them. Started with the blower box, this foam was dicintegrating away as I touched it...

Cleaned off that old foam at the shop then biked it back home to clean it and prep it for some new foam.

Looking nice and fresh again, ready for foam.

Hey would you mind posting up which replacement foam you’re going to use? Looking to do the foam on all of my dash parts. Thanks!

 

[gregkline55]

Hey would you mind posting up which replacement foam you’re going to use? Looking to do the foam on all of my dash parts. Thanks!

Happy to! This is what I used and the results of the blower box!

Went with the typical rubber foam weather stripping that most use, 3/4" wide fits perfectly, got enough of this to do the other areas as well. Then also picked up some 1/4" thick X 1-1/4" wide felt weather stripping, used this with some spray adhesive to replace the foam on the flapper doors, very happy with how it all turned out! Just had to trim the felt after gluing to get it tight to the edge of the flapper itself so there wasn't any binding.

 

[LETSROLLEM]

Happy to! This is what I used and the results of the blower box!

Went with the typical rubber foam weather stripping that most use, 3/4" wide fits perfectly, got enough of this to do the other areas as well. Then also picked up some 1/4" thick X 1-1/4" wide felt weather stripping, used this with some spray adhesive to replace the foam on the flapper doors, very happy with how it all turned out! Just had to trim the felt after gluing to get it tight to the edge of the flapper itself so there wasn't any binding.

That helps a ton! Thanks!!

 

[gregkline55]

Onto the next one!

Last night I painted the section of frame I had coated the previously, then I yanked out the AC portion of the HVAC system. Very pleased with how easy it is to pull all of this apart, very well thought out by the boys in the design room.

Time to clean and re-foam, need to blow out the evaporator too, overall it looks to be in good shape.

Can see my transmission being used as a holding rack, thats for my other project running parallel with the 60, I've been a long time BMW guy (Porsche/VW as well). Have been refurbishing and doing OEM+ work to my '97 328IS, figured I'd post it below for anyone interested!

1997 328IS Progress Thread - Montreal Blau

Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make...

www.bimmerforums.com

 

[gregkline55]

Solids night tonight, got the drivetrain back in! Have gotten pretty good at the solo installing and uninstalling drivetrains and this one had to be the smoothest its ever gone, no fuss, and went right back in its home. And I have to say it looks pretty damn good in there! Once I got it in I got the twin sticks all bolted back up, then pulled out the last section of the HVAC system, the heater box. Will get that all cleaned up and refoamed too.

 

[gregkline55]

Have been getting some stuff done after work, first item is getting all the shifters hooked back up. Got the twin sticks all set, working nice and smooth and fitting nicely. Then got the Lokar shifter in, bit fiddly getting it in there and bolted up. Only thing left there is getting the linkage setup.

Next has been continuing to clean up and re-foam the HVAC system, happy to say this is finally done! Although I dont have any photos, the AC box is finished up, then last night I finished up the heater box. Heater box definitely needed the most work, but overall went smooth. Had to fix one crack on it with some epoxy.

Before these go back in the interior will be getting a big cleaning!

 

[gregkline55]

Here she is, the completed HVAC system! All new foam/felt and its all working beautifully. Like I said above, this will go back in after I clean up the interior, so much dust and dirt in there, needs a really good vacuuming/washing. Once clean Ill probably ass some more sound deadening in hard to access areas where it'll go, will also reinstall the chassis wiring harness first.