HEI question

[Guest]

Does anyone have a picture of the flange that is supposed to be grinded on to make the distributor set down in the oil pump properly? Could someone describe it? Someone said to measure the distance from the gear to-is this necessary

 

[ScottFJ40]

The arrow points to the flange that some say needs to be ground down to get it to seat properly.

 

[Degnol]

I started with a bench grinder and finished it off with a file. I went back to the vise and filed several tomes to get it to seat completely without getting sloppy. The theory is that you will get complete seating in the oilpump drive, you can use the original hold down clamp (but you'll have to make a bushing out of plastic pipe), and the gear to oilpump distance is the same. So far it is working fine, I still keep an eye on the oil pressure guage, based on the bad experiences of others.
Don't try to use the factory specs on timing. Advance it for better performance and mileage, then shut it off and try to start it. If it bucks when you start, then retard it a tiny amount. When you're happy with the timing, THEN put a light in it and write it down for a reference. Also your advance port will run into the oil filter and limits your ability to advance it, so pay attention to where it is in relation to the filter when you install it, otherwise, you may have to move it back by a tooth.
You will like the result.
Ed Long

 

[Degnol]

I started with a bench grinder and finished it off with a file. I went back to the vise and filed several tomes to get it to seat completely without getting sloppy. The theory is that you will get complete seating in the oilpump drive, you can use the original hold down clamp (but you'll have to make a bushing out of plastic pipe), and the gear to oilpump distance is the same. So far it is working fine, I still keep an eye on the oil pressure guage, based on the bad experiences of others.
Don't try to use the factory specs on timing. Advance it for better performance and mileage, then shut it off and try to start it. If it bucks when you start, then retard it a tiny amount. When you're happy with the timing, THEN put a light in it and write it down for a reference. Also your advance port will run into the oil filter and limits your ability to advance it, so pay attention to where it is in relation to the filter when you install it, otherwise, you may have to move it back by a tooth.
You will like the result.
Ed Long
Read the article in Tech Links by Jeremy Compton, if you haven't already

 

[Guest]

I'd use the Toyota gear if I were you. The GM gear will be eaten slowly by the Toyota Cam. And if it goes boom and all cylinders ignite at the same time. You ate your magnetic pickup because your center bushing inside the dist dropped down. Things to make sure you do correctly on an HEI conversion. Make sure the input to the Oil pump is the same. The taper on the end of the HEI is different from the taper on the Toyota dist. Make sure the gear is changed and moved to the correct location. And the HEI does not have the provision for the o-ring like the toyota dist does. If I were to ever try and do another HEI (which I won't) use a two piece clamp collar, cut the groove into the HEI for the o-ring, move the gear, machine the end to go into the toyota pump.
If you do not watch the details you will be left on the side of the road very unhappy. I missed GSMTR 99 because of an HEI experience.. Learned way more about an HEI than I ever wanted to know.. Toyota electronic dist is just fine with me.

 

[Degnol]

If you're not too wild with the grinder, you'll find there is a groove for an O ring right below where the flange was. I had to deepen mine with a hacksaw then round it out with a very small round file. You will need a very thin diameter O ring and stretch on one that is almost too small. I did swap gears, the shafts are identical diameter. The hole in the Toyo gear is bigger than the one in the GM shaft, so I turned the gear 90* and drilled one side using a bit that was the same diameter as the hole in the GM shaft, then put the gear on the shaft and using my new hole lined up with the hole in the shaft drilled through the other side of the gear, eliminating any alignment problems Used a new roll pin. The end of my HEI was the same as the Toyo, so no problems engaging the oilpump. Mine was out of an '80 GM pickup and had that Ujoint, but it was no problem. Pretty much identical to the pics in Jeremy's article. Good luck!
Ed

 

[ScottFJ40]

You can't tell in the pic I posted earlier in this thread, but it has an o-ring groove.

I am getting another dizzy, because I think the one I have is fubared. I haven't installed it yet of course, but feel I can do it no problem. Thanks to the info I gleaned from sites like this.

I am going to give it a shot, I have a spare 2f and a couple sbc's what do I have to lose ?

 

[Guest]

Does anyone have a picture of the pipe used as a bushing?

 

[Degnol]

Thinwall plastic pipe, about 1" diameter. Cut a slit in it, heat it with a propane torch or heatgun, form it to the diz housing, trim it if necessary. You can do all this at the bench once the diz will fit in the hole and you have grooved the housing for and installed the "O" ring. Make sure it will go all the way down in the hole, THEN fit the plastic bushing and the clamp.
GL

 

[Guest]

Thanks to all the suggestions and help on the HEI swap! I finished the swap last night! I made the bushing out of the 1 inch plastic pipe as suggested. I also took Erik's suggestion and I machined down (grinders work great too ) the end of the HEI unit. This was my first experience doing anything with a diz. The great thing is that I didn't even have to time it up!!!!!!! I cranked it up and it ran excellent! I bet I can't do that again!!!! Again, thanks for all the suggestions!! I am also working a complete write up of the swap with lots of pics for newbies like me!

 

[Degnol]

Don't you just LOVE Happy Endings!!! WTG Biker!
Ed

 

[ScottFJ40]

Bikeislife,
I have a question for you. I got my flange machined off yesterday. I have 2 dizzy's and am trying to make one good one. I pulled the shaft on one, and the bearing or spacer type thing came out with the shaft. On the dizzy bodt where I had the flange machined off, the bearing/spacer thing stayed inside, and I boogered it up trying to pound it out. I'm gonna use a big bolt to get it out.

My question is how did you deal with it? I can post some pics if needed.

Thanks again, I intend to have this conversion done this weekend.

 

[ScottFJ40]

I'll take suggestions from anyone.

 

[Degnol]

Send pics, I'll see if I can help. I don't quite understand what you are trying to describe. BTW, you'll get it done this weekend.
Ed Long

 

[ScottFJ40]

Thanks Ed.

In this first pic, you can see how I boogered up this "sleeve"

In this second one, I circled the "sleeve" that's still on the other shaft.

I appreciate any insight and tips.

 

[Guest]

I didn't do anything like you are doing???? ??? I just swapped gears, machined the tip of the diz, shimmed the the diz, and dropped the diz in. I gave my new diz a test today by driving 200 miles in the cruiser-yeehaw! I wish i could help you more, but I'm new to this mechanic thing!

 

[Guest]

Forgot to mention that I ground off the flange. :

 

[ScottFJ40]

I know how to replace my current dizzy. I just don't know about these internals.

One good thing, I know how to rebuild a dizzy, hehehe

 

[Degnol]

I'm with B ???ike on this one, never got this far into disassembly.
Why did you take the thing apart? My suggestion is put the diz back together, if it spins freely, complete the rest of the swap. Basically, DUNNO! Sorry!

 

[ScottFJ40]

I took it apart, because i was using 2 different dizzy's to make one. I also wanted to make sure everything is in good working condition. And I have a crane cams advance kit for it.

I am going to figure it out tomorrow for sure.