Heavy metal rattling/vibration (1 Viewer)

[schmidtchen98]

Hey Guys, iam a neubie here.

Coming from a Lond Rover... mistakes were made... now Ive got the proper thing.


First of all sorry for my Englisch. Iam from germany but iam trying my best


I recently liftet my 80 series with the ome 2,5 inch lift kit. On top Ive got some 10 mil spaces on the springs as well.
Switched to 35´s too.

Caster Busches have been installed as well (Set came with it from OME).

So once the lift was installed and the new, bigger tyres been put on the rig, i was going for a first drive.


Here is the problem now:

When iam driving up to 30 mph and i lift the gas, everything is normal.

Once iam past 40 mph per hour and I lift the gas, iam getting really loud metal like vibration sounds. Like so bad u instandly think that there is defenitly something going very wrong.

Its kinda like in the Video of this thread:

Odd metal noise when letting off the gas at 1900 RPM. What should I do?

Evening everyone, Was hoping my first post back from deployment would be a lot nicer, but unfortunately, ran into an issue. Cruiser was ran this morning and was completely fine. I started going at highway speeds and noticed as I left off the gas, this weird metal noise comes it at 1900 RPM. It...

forum.ih8mud.com

In the thread above, 2 people have been able to solve their vibrations.

The first one had his DS in phase - got it out of phase - gone.

The second one had bad u joints.

My U-Joints are super stiff, like i can shake the the DS as hard as i can, there is no movement at all. And the DS is out of phase as well...


When i lift the gas, and put it in N, the rattle is very short.

If i keep it in drive the rattle will continue until iam slower than 25mph or until i start accelerating/maintaining speed again.


As i have an automatic, disconnecting the front DS and locking the center will not work.. Center diff lock is only availible when in low range...

HDJ80
Late ´92
260000km or 140 isch miles.

I really hope u guys can help me with my problem.


Greets from Bremen, Germany!

 

[Rusty Marlin]

First, Welcome to MUD!
2nd your English is much better than my German and very understandable.

You can lock the center diff by shifting to L, then pull the CDL fuse, shift back to H. Then pull the front drive shaft and you're in RWD.
Check the radial play in the splines of the drive shaft. It should be zero to a few hundreths of mm (0.XX) .
By lifting the truck, you've pulled the slipe joint on the drive shaft to a new location with less L/D (Length/Diameter) support.
Have you greased the slip joint recently? It could be dry.

If you want a selectable CDL, do a search on the Pin 7 Mod. Its very quick and easy to complete and super convenient when off pavement. It might have been my 1st or 2nd mod.

 

[schmidtchen98]

First, Welcome to MUD!
2nd your English is much better than my German and very understandable.

You can lock the center diff by shifting to L, then pull the CDL fuse, shift back to H. Then pull the front drive shaft and you're in RWD.
Check the radial play in the splines of the drive shaft. It should be zero to a few hundreths of mm (0.XX) .
By lifting the truck, you've pulled the slipe joint on the drive shaft to a new location with less L/D (Length/Diameter) support.
Have you greased the slip joint recently? It could be dry.

If you want a selectable CDL, do a search on the Pin 7 Mod. Its very quick and easy to complete and super convenient when off pavement. It might have been my 1st or 2nd mod.

Hi Marlin!

Thank you!

I will check it for play when Iam back at home.

The U Joint and the Shaft itself were greased when I lifted the truck, that should be fine.

What I’ve also noticed this morning:

While Iam driving, not accelerating or decelerating, and Iam going over a long strecht bump while doing 50mph, that rattling/vibrations comes back.

But it just comes back while iam “on the top of the flight curve”. Like before going down again when the springs are the most stretched out.

Definitely gonna try the fuse trick! Haven’t thought about unplugging the fuze!

 

[Rusty Marlin]

if you're getting a metalic sound while the suspesion is cycleing after a lift, its common for the the springs to rub the lip of the bump stop.

image taken from this post:

Springs hitting bump stop

So I have had a twag noise for sometime and keep checking what the noise was and found nothing untoward. As my cruiser has been sat with the wheel off for a week. I noticed the bump stop isn't in the middle of the spring for a start and been rubbing. Under further look found part hard peeled up...

www.landcruiserclub.net

 

[60 toy ota]

One thing you want to be sure of when checking for slop in the ujoints or driveshaft is that they are unloaded while you check for that. If you hadn't already, make sure to have the truck in neutral with the e-brake on so that any slop isn't taken up by the weight of the vehicle binding up the driveline while in park.

 

[CharlieS]

One thing you want to be sure of when checking for slop in the ujoints or driveshaft is that they are unloaded while you check for that. If you hadn't already, make sure to have the truck in neutral with the e-brake on so that any slop isn't taken up by the weight of the vehicle binding up the driveline while in park.

And maybe chock the wheels, even if only with a good sized rock, so it doesn't roll over you in Neutral. I don't really trust land cruiser ebrakes...

For people more experienced than me: could worn out splines on drive plates/birfs make this sound?

 

[schmidtchen98]

Hey Guys!

First of all thanks a lot for all the replies and the great advice!

I’ve pulled the front DS today and went for a drive (thanks for the mod 7 tip Marlin!)

The vibrations were definitely a bit less.

But just less…

As I was coming back, I „parked“ the 80 on an even surface in neutral only with the handbrake on (stone were placed under the car Charlie ).

When I tried to shake it the first time, the rear DS must have been under load because both the rear as well as the front had some play in it.

The rear was minimal.

The front was definitely more.

Will replace all U Joints now and see how it works after that.

One Question: how do ich check the bearings of the T Case? Cause the vibration were still so heavy that I daubt that it’s just the U Joints on the rear.


Thanks Guys, appreciate your help and input!

 

[schmidtchen98]

First, Welcome to MUD!
2nd your English is much better than my German and very understandable.

You can lock the center diff by shifting to L, then pull the CDL fuse, shift back to H. Then pull the front drive shaft and you're in RWD.
Check the radial play in the splines of the drive shaft. It should be zero to a few hundreths of mm (0.XX) .
By lifting the truck, you've pulled the slipe joint on the drive shaft to a new location with less L/D (Length/Diameter) support.
Have you greased the slip joint recently? It could be dry.

If you want a selectable CDL, do a search on the Pin 7 Mod. Its very quick and easy to complete and super convenient when off pavement. It might have been my 1st or 2nd mod.

The Splines were all good, no play at all. But the pull out ist visible.

Greased the rear one today as well, but no change before the test drive this afternoon..

 

[Fj80oregon]

Love doing my own work but u joints are where I pay someone to handle that. I buy my U joints from partsouq and have a local shop rebuild and balance the drive lines its around $150 in shop labor In my area.

 

[CharlieS]

It isn't too bad a job if you have a Tiger tool (or similar) to press the u-joints out. I never really cared all that much for the big hammer method, but will use it on a trail fix.

 

[suzuguru]

Guten Tag! Wie geht es ihnen? Es tut mir leid, meine Deutsche ist nische so gut.
Looks like your slip yolk in your driveshaft has moved very little. I doubt that's the issue. I also doubt that your transfer case has anything to do with the matter. I would be more inclined to check the phase of the shafts, and like Rusty Marlin said, check that your springs aren't rubbing on the mounts. I would also check heat shields to make sure they aren't rubbing anywhere. Good luck with it!

 

[BILT4ME]

Please post pictures of your driveshafts, suspension, and overall of the truck.

We may be able to see something in those pics.

The slip yoke on both driveshafts must be to the FRONT of the vehicle. If the front one is in backwards, it may be hitting your sway bar.

What year?
What engine and transmission?
How many miles (km) on it?

 

[schmidtchen98]

Hey Guys, sorry for the delayed feed back.

here are pictures of my front and rear DS...

If I remember it right, the front has to be out of phase and the rear one in phase right?

Because my rear ist out of phase as well. Havent noticed it until you guys told me to take some pictures... In Germany we say "cant see the forest because of all those trees"...

I just ordered new U Joints, getting them replaced on Monday.

Would be nice to know if you would put the rear one back in phase or like it is now, out of phase.

Thanks!

 

[schmidtchen98]

Please post pictures of your driveshafts, suspension, and overall of the truck.

We may be able to see something in those pics.

The slip yoke on both driveshafts must be to the FRONT of the vehicle. If the front one is in backwards, it may be hitting your sway bar.

What year?
What engine and transmission?
How many miles (km) on it?

Sorry forgot the details:

HDJ80
260000 km - 150 isch miles
late 1992
Automatic transmission
tripple locked
left hand drive
on 35´s with an 3 inch lift
2° caster correction

 

[Rusty Marlin]

it could be the perspective of the camera, but the front shaft's u-joints look like they are out of alignment by one tooth on the spline.

 

[BILT4ME]

Hey Guys, sorry for the delayed feed back.

here are pictures of my front and rear DS...

If I remember it right, the front has to be out of phase and the rear one in phase right?

Because my rear ist out of phase as well. Havent noticed it until you guys told me to take some pictures... In Germany we say "cant see the forest because of all those trees"...

I just ordered new U Joints, getting them replaced on Monday.

Would be nice to know if you would put the rear one back in phase or like it is now, out of phase.

Thanks!

View attachment 3639248

View attachment 3639250

Rear is supposed to be in phase.

I agree with @Rusty Marlin about the front shaft. It's supposed to be out of phase 90° exactly, not kinda.

I'm betting the phase issues are what's causing your vibration and harmonics.

 

[suzuguru]

it could be the perspective of the camera, but the front shaft's u-joints look like they are out of alignment by one tooth on the spline.

View attachment 3639267

I agree.

 

[schmidtchen98]

So I just double checked it and…

…they are both not in line..

The front one ist not at 90 degrees neither is the back parallel.

Iam will try to correct both tomorrow to see if it gets better.

But the U Joints of the rear DS are definitely loose as well.

Also:
How much play is the rear diff allowed? Like when I turn the rear DS one way to the other, there is like 5 millimeter play in the rear diff before “contact is made again”…

I hope you get what I mean

 

[Rusty Marlin]

The play is fine, that's just the backlash in gears and axel splines.

 

[schmidtchen98]

So.. it was the rear DS. Changed the Phase to in phase - that heavy vibration is gone!

Rear U joint is still gone and the front Yoke has a little bit of play.

But right now it’s definitely drivable!!

On Monday the U joints and then we will see again.

Got broken CV’s as well I think. When I steer to full lock on give it some gas, I get some bad clicking sounds, wich are in a rhythm as well.. both sides…

Should we CV’s, right?


Thenks for your much appreciated help everyone!!!