heater water valve question

[charliemeyer007]

You can stop the flow of water at either end of the system. Valving the hot water in will be more effective, however putting the valve on the return side will work well enough. Big hemostat on the heater hose is very effective.

 

[sleepycruiser]

My 1964 has a valve on one of the hoses going to the heater. I don’t believe the valve is original, but it doesn’t open/close easily anymore. I am getting ready to replace it. Does it just need the valve on the one hose or is it ok to put it valves on both?

 

[charliemeyer007]

You only need one valve to control the flow. If you have a valve that doesn't close and is hard to get to or NLA you could add a valve and have control. Mine has the screw in to turn off flow and I shut it late spring and open it late fall - never felt the need to open it halfway to control the heat. Windows, cowl and kicks vents plus the blower motors on the heaters provide excellent control.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Just came across this post. I have an aftermarket AC/heater all in one unit. I am using the stock shut off valve (OEM Heater Water Valve for Land Cruiser FJ40 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-heater-water-valve-for-land-cruiser-fj40?variant=28200329475).

But my AC has not been working well. I’ve noticed that the water line coming into the cab from the valve is getting hot, even when in the off position (warm pull knob pushed in). The warm coolant flowing into my AC/heater unit is definitely causing issues because when I pinch the hose, the AC gets cold.

My question is, does it sound like I have a faulty valve? Someone above said it might let some water through. I need the water flow shut off completely to run my AC.

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Hi Curtice ,

- the chances of a new and the the newer updated Heater Control valve you got via Racer X being now faulty / worn out or bad internally in some way are like in the 0.4 % or less category . think for a moment how many of those same valves are in service right now , and have been replaced at one point or another because the original PLANT A11 one did die on them , or more common simply sized up from a lack of use and or the WARM PULL Cable is also sized or broken for example ...


i have not ever heard even a whisper of a replacement one having a issue of any kind ...... ?


Has anyone else here had a problem with one they have replaced the original one with since owning there 9/73-10/85 FJ40 43 45 etc ...?

if so ? please post your experience and what failed inside it below ...


so ...

your inside the cab heater hoses / lines getting warm / hot Curtice can have only 3 fundamental root causes ......

#1 Your WARM PULL cable's push-pull Throw-Range factor is off due to its positioning location on and in the hater valves clamp / holder via the tensioner screw , exactly the same as ALL F1.5 , 2F Carburetor Choke Cables are in the stand-off tower with its same in kind cable clamp thingy .... this is a place location designed into th heater valve exactly for this singular purpose ,. you need to set the final clamp setting adjustment of the metal feral end cap on th cable , while the WARM PULL cable is in the full pushed-in position inside the truck , make triple sure and certain it is full depressed , because as your hands handle the valve and the cable , you CAN cause the cable inner solid core wire to be pushed inward towards the fire wall and not know it .... ? i have done this more then a few times , so i know its a common possible possibility here ......


#2 WARM PULL cable is broken or defective in some way to be determined way ?


#3 i chunk of cooling system debris is now stuck / trapped on the internal valve and or its seat , causing a not fully sealed zero flow of coolant factor to occur
Eazy-Peezy to remedy that , but you must remove the valve and go at it over your utility sink with a nice intense 8000K LED hand-held Torch & a few of your nice dental picks & a set of small forceps ....


make sense

report back with your findings here Curtice , hope this helps ,,



- Below : TECH Video of the whole push-pull throw-play factor , and why its mission critical to get the adjustment topic spot on ....


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[Curtice]

Thanks @ToyotaMatt and all. Matt was right, my warm pull knob was not seating the valve completely. I neglected to mention it is an aftermarket pull knob that came with the ac, but I connected it to the stock valve. Made the small adjustment to get it to close all the way and now it closes off and my ac is nice and cold.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Part 1 Below :

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[ToyotaMatt]

Part 2 Below :