heater water valve question (1 Viewer)

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TCEd

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On my 1977 FJ-40 there is a valve to open/close the water flow on the upper water valve hose. Would this be to shut off the water flow to the heater ? I've ordered a new water valve but trying to figure out if I should remove or leave the open/close valve.
Thanks, Ed

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wv1.jpg
 
On my 1977 FJ-40 there is a valve to open/close the water flow on the upper water valve hose. Would this be to shut off the water flow to the heater ? I've ordered a new water valve but trying to figure out if I should remove or leave the open/close valve.
Thanks, Ed

View attachment 3660703

View attachment 3660704
I don’t believe the open/close is stock but I could be wrong. My 78’ 40 did not have such a valve. From your photos it’s hard to tell if it is the line that goes into the heater valve. Can you get a shot of both of them in the same frame? The extra valve seems like a pretty sweet upgrade if you’re not a purist. When I redid my heater I flooded the garage with coolant :)
 
I don’t believe the open/close is stock but I could be wrong. My 78’ 40 did not have such a valve. From your photos it’s hard to tell if it is the line that goes into the heater valve. Can you get a shot of both of them in the same frame? The extra valve seems like a pretty sweet upgrade if you’re not a purist. When I redid my heater I flooded the garage with coolant :)
Jk, I can see now that it is indeed the intake for the heater. If the open/close valve works use it to change out the heater valve and keep it tbh. It’ll save you a lot of blue shop towels.
 
My OEM control valve no longer completely seals when pushed in to the OFF position. I found this aftermarket valve on Rockauto for $14:

Control valve3.JPG


In the summer I turn it off and in winter turn it on, then pull out the dash control knob for maximum heat. One of these days I may get an OEM replacement - they're around $60, 70.

Or not...:meh:
 
So can I close the water flow using the valve and drive the vehicle and not effect the cooling system?
 
So can I close the water flow using the valve and drive the vehicle and not effect the cooling system?
Correct. It was a pretty nifty design feature. On our 1970 model, it was designed so that you had to open the hood and close the valve so that hot water stopped circulating through the passenger compartment heater cores during the warm seasons. Can you imagine such a feature on a modern-day car? :)
IMG_1201.jpg
 
Thanks for the help guys. Ed
 
There have been times when being able to run the heater(s) has prevented the engine from over heating. Re-directing the windshield washer spray to the radiator can help too.

Mine has the manual valve, but I have a Toy cable operated one I got off a dead Celica to co-install.
 
There have been times when being able to run the heater(s) has prevented the engine from over heating. Re-directing the windshield washer spray to the radiator can help too.

Mine has the manual valve, but I have a Toy cable operated one I got off a dead Celica to co-install.
So after all they are OEM?
 
My manual OEM looks like Green Bean's (post #6) but I don't think it has any brass, however it could be corroded over enough to hide that. My cable controlled unit looks like pic 2 in post #1.
Spring and fall here could have days when you need both the heat and AC if you have it. Being able to easily shut off the heater water is handy.
 
I'd just run the stk heater control valve mounted on the firewall. I think city racer and others sells them, maybe even Toyota.
It stops the flow of hot water into the cabin and heater cores. You should have a warm pull knob on the dash that operates the valve. There will be water on both sides of the valve. The valve is at a relative high point in the system.
 
My systems a little different but uses the stk valve. It's a little hard to see.

20230408_024959.jpg
 
Here is a photo of the OE heater valve assembly. Notice that it was actually 2 pieces. The 90 degree fitting screws into the water port on the head and the valve screws into that fitting so that it is perpendicular to the head. The newer brass valve is one that I obtained from @ToyotaMatt (Vintage Teq) a while back.
IMG_1309.jpg

IMG_1311.jpg
 
Definitely not OEM but this was my solution to shutting off all coolant to the cab. The stock valve seems to slow down the flow somewhat but the lines remain hot. This ball valve completely cuts off the flow, is tough enough to withstand engine heat and can be shut off easily without tools. $15 @ Lowes for the valve and clamps. Working great for 3 years now.

Fotor_155468156752870.jpg
 
On my 1977 FJ-40 there is a valve to open/close the water flow on the upper water valve hose. Would this be to shut off the water flow to the heater ? I've ordered a new water valve but trying to figure out if I should remove or leave the open/close valve.
Thanks, Ed

View attachment 3660703

View attachment 3660704
I don’t believe the open/close is stock but I could be wrong. My 78’ 40 did not have such a valve. From your photos it’s hard to tell if it is the line that goes into the heater valve. Can you get a shot of both of them in the same frame? The extra valve seems like a pretty sweet upgrade if you’re not a purist. When I redid my heater I flooded the garage with coolant :)
My OEM control valve no longer completely seals when pushed in to the OFF position. I found this aftermarket valve on Rockauto for $14:

View attachment 3660788

In the summer I turn it off and in winter turn it on, then pull out the dash control knob for maximum heat. One of these days I may get an OEM replacement - they're around $60, 70.

Or not...:meh:
Definitely not OEM but this was my solution to shutting off all coolant to the cab. The stock valve seems to slow down the flow somewhat but the lines remain hot. This ball valve completely cuts off the flow, is tough enough to withstand engine heat and can be shut off easily without tools. $15 @ Lowes for the valve and clamps. Working great for 3 years now.

View attachment 3661085
Here is a photo of the OE heater valve assembly. Notice that it was actually 2 pieces. The 90 degree fitting screws into the water port on the head and the valve screws into that fitting so that it is perpendicular to the head. The newer brass valve is one that I obtained from @ToyotaMatt (Vintage Teq) a while back.
View attachment 3661068
View attachment 3661069




Curious........?

why would a FJ40
9/73-1984 need a secondary / additional heater shut-off valve , for a Front & or Front & Rear heater option YES set-up ......

if the stock fire-wall mounted one and it's related WARM PULL control cable were both in good working order ?


now ....


a 1961-8/73 like mr. green bean has going on for example , would have had a cylinder head mounted one with a Heater 's option YES set-up

the early Siamese F era FJ40's
1961-1967 had only 1 female threaded-port on the rear of the top cylinder head location for the Tall Sensor union for the cluster meter TEMP. gauge

so .....

TOYOTA located the manual shut off valve either on / in a katty-wompus array of JIS galvanized cast-iron threaded plumbing fittings , same in appearance-ONLY as you might see at Home-Depot ...

- or , down on the Lower radiator hoses , center heavy duty cast iron straight coupler , that had a female threaded bung arc-welded to it , to then mount the manual shut off valve , both Siamese F valve mount styles were the style with straight threads & the loose hex-nut , so you could articulate the hose-bib like a Submarines periscope as desired

basic summer of what all i do know tech. wise here , i can tell you that other more rare & different Factory set ups did exist for sure out there


- my current intrigue is to confirm and verify
IF indeed a single water port equipped cylinder head , actually did have a Factory TALL Sensor-Union with a female threaded bung or port , that then a manual shut off valve could be mounted there as well , thus looping the Heater Hose itself up and over the Engine to directly connect to the brass hose bib inlet to feed the interior Heater option 's YES ?


this is the stuff of urban-legend up till now for me anyway , no concrete parts nomenclature hints at it at all , but i have see too many to date , that suggest strongly this was not just some kool new idea field in your shop on a Saturday and your Sears Craftsman MOD .....:idea:


and this is the why factor below ...:poof:

.

.


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