Heater Ts and hoses? (1 Viewer)

[Mark Gavin]

Hi all,

2006 LC with 130k on the odometer. Had the truck for about 5 months now and I'm loving it. I'm going to change the heater Ts soon. I've read enough and searched enough to know this is good preventative maintenance. Question is, what about the heater hoses? Is it a good idea to change these out along with the Ts, or is changing the hoses totally unnecessary?

Thanks!

Mark

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Check their condition, generally it's just the plastic of the t's that becomes a problem, it's usually not the hoses.

 

[Battleship]

Not disagreeing with TM, but consider that they are cheap and very easy to replace. I think some would argue that the job is easier if you sacrifice and replace the old ones.

 

[heywood]

I replaced the hoses when I did my Ts. I used factory ones and they were very expensive for what they were. Not sure if they need to be shaped, but maybe bulk hose cut to fit would work just as well.

 

[soreneagle]

I just replaced the tees and even with screw clamps the hoses are seeping.

 

[TX_TLC]

I just replaced the tees and even with screw clamps the hoses are seeping.

View attachment 1383002

You should check into constant tension clamps. Much better option for this application.

 

[soreneagle]

How is that?

 

[TX_TLC]

From Hoser in another heater t thread.

This is the constant torque/tension clamp I am talking about. The OE clamp is also a CT design. The one pictured go for about $5-6/ea though. Here is some additional info...

"Virtually all rubber hose compresses "cold flow" after installation of a clamping device, resulting in an almost immediate torque loss that can exceed 80% of installation torque. Similarly, virtually all metal connections expand as a system heats up, and then contracts as the system cools. Conventional worm-gear, T-Bolt, and other clamps are passive, in that expansion and contraction of components cannot be compensated for without retightening or loosening the clamps. This Breeze clamping system is an "active" clamp mechanism, which monitors and then compensates for the temperature changes by actually changing diameter through a unique worm-gear Belleville assembly."

http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm

 

[BEG]

Gates molded heater hoses (19082 and 18622) are relatively inexpensive and can be cut to match the stock hoses exactly. Also, the Breeze constant torque clamps are a good idea (I believe @NLXTACY sells them on his website). That and a pair of the Four Seasons tee barb fittings (84543) and you should be good to go.

 

[medtro]

Ts - I used Four Seasons 84543 metal fittings.

5/8" hoses - I used two (2) Gates 28467 molded hoses, cut to the right length, there is enough left over to do the straight sections.

1/2" hoses - I used Gates 1/2" bulk hose.

I also reused the factory clamps, no leak.

 

[Sandroad]

How is that?

Especially in the smaller sizes, standard screw clamps can distort or sort of bunch up the rubber as they are tightened because the contact surface is not even. The factory clamps are better for the heater hoses, as are the CT screw clamps.

 

[Pinittowinit]

Oetiker clamps are awesome as well

 

[Mark Gavin]

Thanks all for the input. I decided that as long as I am contorting myself in the engine compartment, I'd go ahead and replace the hoses as well. So OEM plastic tees and hoses on, reused the clamps. Good for another 100,000 miles or so. Incidentally, one of the Ts did break when I was yanking on a hose that was connected to it for removal. Guess that suggests it was the right time to replace!

 

[sean2202]

A heat gun works well for removing stubborn hoses that are stuck.