AFAIK= as far as I know!! got it... . ..
so then your factory fogs don't work anymore??
so then your factory fogs don't work anymore??
Headlights- HELP! converting Hdj 81 to fj 80 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bitehard
- Start date
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Darren,
The JDM headlights have the built-in inner H3-ish fog lights (lenses).
With the new units you replace them with the H1 high beams.
I would be happy with that set-up for additional ooomph on the dark highway and probably just get a small, low-profile foglights to fit on/in/under the bumper if I were you.
That way you have the fog lights where they belong and free up some room for big aux. driving lights for even more ooomph on the highway.
(Looks like you have a bullbar/brush guard and maybe have a set of aux. lights already).
GOOD LUCK!
Mot
The JDM headlights have the built-in inner H3-ish fog lights (lenses).
With the new units you replace them with the H1 high beams.
I would be happy with that set-up for additional ooomph on the dark highway and probably just get a small, low-profile foglights to fit on/in/under the bumper if I were you.
That way you have the fog lights where they belong and free up some room for big aux. driving lights for even more ooomph on the highway.
(Looks like you have a bullbar/brush guard and maybe have a set of aux. lights already).GOOD LUCK!
Mot
wussyPup
just another ex-VI Cruiser
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My brother in law picked up and delivered my Euro Spec headlamps from ATEB for my 1990 HDJ81 this week. I hope to install them this weekend. I don't know for sure, but I do not think that these are OEM Toyota, more on this later. For now, here are some pictures of the new assemblies showing the lamps and markings.
LHS headlamp assembly with the lamps installed, note that there is no yellow reflector for a fog lamp on the inner side like there is on the JDM
The markings on the lens, inner side (left side of photo),
HR
E6 (in a circle) 25
049445
outer side (right side of photo):
HC/R
E6 (in a circle) 10
029444
outer edge (vertically):
XR157 L
Looking down from above, the markings for the H4 hi/low beam outer lamp; and the H1 hi beam inner lamp or JDM H3 fog. The JDM assembly has the same markings.
.
Here's the back of the assembly showing the H4 and H1 connectors.
Details of the DOT and SAE markings. The JDM assembly has the same marking. Compare this photo with Mot's at https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=984168&postcount=2 that shows the Toyota and KoiTo markings.
The markings are:
100-73998
SAE HR89
DOT JAPAN
>PP<L
Close ups of the outer hi/low beam H4 lamp and socket. Note the US HB4 marking to the left of the picture and the inner "shade" inside.
.
Close ups of the inner hi beam H1 lamp and socket. Note the US HB3 marking to the right of the picture and no yellow reflector like the JDM fog lamp inside.
.
Tomorrow, if the rain eases a bit, I'll search for the H1 wiring connector and try to get them installed.
Based on the lack of "Toyota" and "KoiTo" markings on these assemblies and cardboard boxes, I doubt that these are OEM Toyota. This explains why they are so moch less than the OEM assemblies that Mot was offering.
-Steve
LHS headlamp assembly with the lamps installed, note that there is no yellow reflector for a fog lamp on the inner side like there is on the JDM
The markings on the lens, inner side (left side of photo),
HR
E6 (in a circle) 25
049445
outer side (right side of photo):
HC/R
E6 (in a circle) 10
029444
outer edge (vertically):
XR157 L
Looking down from above, the markings for the H4 hi/low beam outer lamp; and the H1 hi beam inner lamp or JDM H3 fog. The JDM assembly has the same markings.
. 
Here's the back of the assembly showing the H4 and H1 connectors.
Details of the DOT and SAE markings. The JDM assembly has the same marking. Compare this photo with Mot's at https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=984168&postcount=2 that shows the Toyota and KoiTo markings.
The markings are:
100-73998
SAE HR89
DOT JAPAN
>PP<L
Close ups of the outer hi/low beam H4 lamp and socket. Note the US HB4 marking to the left of the picture and the inner "shade" inside.
. 
Close ups of the inner hi beam H1 lamp and socket. Note the US HB3 marking to the right of the picture and no yellow reflector like the JDM fog lamp inside.
. 
Tomorrow, if the rain eases a bit, I'll search for the H1 wiring connector and try to get them installed.
Based on the lack of "Toyota" and "KoiTo" markings on these assemblies and cardboard boxes, I doubt that these are OEM Toyota. This explains why they are so moch less than the OEM assemblies that Mot was offering.
-Steve
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Identical to my JDM headlights except for the orange reflector.
These lamps are indeed OEM toyota, with all the quality that goes along with it. I'm very happy with mine. The inners are now more of an extra high beam, but I found the JDM fogs pretty useless, even in heavy fog, so for me this has been a huge positive change. I also have 30 amp relays on each side and am running IPF X51 bulbs. EXCELLENT light now. Not quite HID but very sufficient for this kind of vehicle. I've driven for hours on highways in pitch dark, heavy rain and snow with no visibility problems at all with this setup.
Unfortunately the brilliant engineeers at Toyota believed the wrong conception that It´s was not required that the fogs be the outer-most lights but fog lights located on a 80 as inner lights are a disaster, they are too high and refract on the fog, blinding the own vehicle driver, period. They just followed this path because it was the easy way without doing any modification either on the body or the front marker lamps which could be a logical location. Playing with the OEM headlights was cheaper.
Look my 80 on this post, my inner E-spec H1 high beam doesn´t have a shade !!!!!
:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129503&d=1174493934
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I loked for used FJ80 headlights in Canada and didn't find any. I phoned wreckers in washington and found 1 pair in Seattle for $700 US (includes side clearence light). I opted for brand new from Toyota for $1000 Can. (includes side clearence light and bulbs).
I could not believe these things are worth so much dough! Everyone I talked to said they are very rare to find at a wrecker un damaged. What was funny was the parts guy at Toyota said there was 5 in stock when I priced them out and the next day when I went to order there were -2. I think there must be a lot of people with the same problem.
Has anyone made it through a BC inspection with the Euro spec headlights?
I could not believe these things are worth so much dough! Everyone I talked to said they are very rare to find at a wrecker un damaged. What was funny was the parts guy at Toyota said there was 5 in stock when I priced them out and the next day when I went to order there were -2. I think there must be a lot of people with the same problem.
Has anyone made it through a BC inspection with the Euro spec headlights?
Damn! This is the best looking, smartest bumper design for an 80 series I have seen. I want one!!! Where do I get one and how much does it cost?
TJM T15, ~$1000 for us Canucks.
wussyPup
just another ex-VI Cruiser
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- Apr 27, 2005
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Sadly, my JDM fogs are no more...
Swapped the JDM headlamps out today and installed a pair of e-codes from ATEB. The new assemblies came with top and bottom chrome trim, but it was too shiny, so I kept the old trim; also wanted to keep the JDM headlamp washers even though I never remember to use them.
The headlamps came out OK:
- unhook connectors,
- remove grill,
- remove lower signal lamps (don't have to remove connectors, just let them dangle),
- remove headlamp sprayer hose,
- remove corner markers (these were a struggle; again, don't have to remove connectors)
- remove headlamps and swap chrome trim from top and bottom
Re-install in reverse. Didn't take any pics because Mot already did it so well: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=984168
Jeremy came by to help; it was handy having an extra set of hands. Thanks Jeremy!
-Steve
Swapped the JDM headlamps out today and installed a pair of e-codes from ATEB. The new assemblies came with top and bottom chrome trim, but it was too shiny, so I kept the old trim; also wanted to keep the JDM headlamp washers even though I never remember to use them.
The headlamps came out OK:
- unhook connectors,
- remove grill,
- remove lower signal lamps (don't have to remove connectors, just let them dangle),
- remove headlamp sprayer hose,
- remove corner markers (these were a struggle; again, don't have to remove connectors)
- remove headlamps and swap chrome trim from top and bottom
Re-install in reverse. Didn't take any pics because Mot already did it so well: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=984168
Jeremy came by to help; it was handy having an extra set of hands. Thanks Jeremy!
-Steve
I presume it would be around US$600 if bought in the States then, right?
In any case it looks perfectly sturdy to me. I may build a similar one this summer, have had a design for a collapsible mounting system for years (shock absorbing but non deforming) I'd love to try implement if I have some free time to do a project like that. Love welding, haven't had the opportunity to do anything serious since I built myself as trailer a few years ago (apart from the occasional repair).
Sorry for th hijack, guys
In any case I'll have to deal with the headlight issue as well, at this point I am looking into simply replacing the lenses themselves, don't see why that couldn't be done and why they can't be sold separate. Hmmm... Chris
I presume it would be around US$600 if bought in the States then, right?
In any case it looks perfectly sturdy to me. I may build a similar one this summer, have had a design for a collapsible mounting system for years (shock absorbing but non deforming) I'd love to try implement if I have some free time to do a project like that. Love welding, haven't had the opportunity to do anything serious since I built myself as trailer a few years ago (apart from the occasional repair).
Sorry for th hijack, guys
Chris
Just to let you know my TJM-T15 is more of a light duty bullbar but with a 9000 lbs winch capacity. The area enclosing the winch is sturdy (it´s CAD designed to increase it´s strengh with a lower gauge steel) but unfortunately the sides are not as much. Is intended to colapse and absorb energy when on a front crash and what I like most of it is that it´s very light against his TJM T-13 brother or ARB bullbars. Unfortunately the other one I like, the ARB Sahara, which is nicer and more trendy than my T-15 is not available for the 80 series.
If you have plans to use a 12.000 lbs winch skip it. If you would like to do one by yourself, take a close look on all the others, and do an extensive research as to end in something as light but as sturdy as possible
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- Thread starter
- #53
Ok gang I am steering this back toward the lights. So I managed to take the adjustment view cap off the top of the light assembly put a screwdriver in a pop the interior assembly back onto the mounting post so I gave myself 1/2
for that move otherwise I would have had to wait weeks for the replacement.
Now I am ready to install but of course no lamps come with the headlight assembly ($500 bucks for Sweet F A) jesus mother of *@!%!*. So I am going to take some advice on which lamps to put in.
This is the FJ 80 assembly. I am looking for some direction without having to rewire....cross seven relays over nine harnesses from 8 suppliers to get 14 patterns type deal. Just a decent setup.
MOT, Robmir or Steve jump in here.
for that move otherwise I would have had to wait weeks for the replacement.Now I am ready to install but of course no lamps come with the headlight assembly ($500 bucks for Sweet F A) jesus mother of *@!%!*. So I am going to take some advice on which lamps to put in.
This is the FJ 80 assembly. I am looking for some direction without having to rewire....cross seven relays over nine harnesses from 8 suppliers to get 14 patterns type deal. Just a decent setup.
MOT, Robmir or Steve jump in here.
wussyPup
just another ex-VI Cruiser
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2005
- Threads
- 142
- Messages
- 1,191
- Location
- Langford, British Columbia, Canada
- Website
- www.flickr.com
Last edited:
Ok gang I am steering this back toward the lights. So I managed to take the adjustment view cap off the top of the light assembly put a screwdriver in a pop the interior assembly back onto the mounting post so I gave myself 1/2
Now I am ready to install but of course no lamps come with the headlight assembly ($500 bucks for Sweet F A) jesus mother of *@!%!*. So I am going to take some advice on which lamps to put in.
This is the FJ 80 assembly. I am looking for some direction without having to rewire....cross seven relays over nine harnesses from 8 suppliers to get 14 patterns type deal. Just a decent setup.
MOT, Robmir or Steve jump in here.
So for what kind of bulbs did your FJ 80 assembly came finally (are they H4 & H1 as mine) ?
My bull bar installed PIAA 80 Racing H4 lamps came with a serious wiring harness and relay set designed to drive 90/135 H4 Watt bulbs. They are sold separated and could be applied in your case. Their H4 socket is the best I had seen, period. Because of the heavy duty relay and wires which source power directly from the battery they can drive your H1 and H4 high beam filament at the same time. As I recall Slee has also one. Here is the link for the PIAA
http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/Lamp-pages/80.html?PHPSESSID=ef4d7267df12418ccaa34549179afcc0
Is not listed on their site but wiring harness part # 22150 is rated for two H4 bulbs at 100/150 W each.
I will try to find were I placed their installation manual and give you some tips.
If you are going for the standard H4 55/60 W bulb you could just use a 100W H1 for the inner high beam and only hook a extra wiring harness and relay to drive it, so the stock wiring can drive only the H4 high beam.
Toyota usually use 22 Amp relays and I believe headlights wiring gauge is #14 for each side which doesn´t provide enough headroom to play safe.
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- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks for the suggestions gang...I will try to grab the wiring adapters tomorrow and hopefully will crack at it, if work will leave me alone for a bit!
Once I am done I am going to edit the first post and outline what is acceptable for compliance so other members don't have to go through the entire thread if they don't want.
Once I am done I am going to edit the first post and outline what is acceptable for compliance so other members don't have to go through the entire thread if they don't want.
Not sure where you're located, but the socket/ connector wiring is available at Canadian Tire for about $10. On the shelf by the headlights/ wiring atrea.
- Thread starter
- #59
So I finally got my headlight conversion done. Thanks to Steve (WussyPup) who came over and gave me a hand.
I am going to try and do this write up as basic as possible (cause If I was reading it that's what I would need).
First things first...put in a good size dip of Redman Leaf brought up from the states if someone is nice enough to bring you some. Once it is secured in your lip you are ready.
Parts List:
1 set FJ 80 lights- DOT / SAE Markings on Lens
2 9006 Bulbs
2 9006 Harnesses (the things with the wires that plug into the bulbs)
2 9005 Bulbs
2 9005 Harnesses
2 Hella 3 Prong Harness (see Pic) I got these bad boys from LORDCO- The guy had no idea where they came from and he gave them to me for free. The numbers stamped into the plastic are 12/74
6 Straight Wire Connectors
Optional
Solder
Small Soldering Torch
Shrink Wrap (the plastic which can be shrunk over connections to make them water tight)
I am going to try and do this write up as basic as possible (cause If I was reading it that's what I would need).
First things first...put in a good size dip of Redman Leaf brought up from the states if someone is nice enough to bring you some. Once it is secured in your lip you are ready.
Parts List:
1 set FJ 80 lights- DOT / SAE Markings on Lens
2 9006 Bulbs
2 9006 Harnesses (the things with the wires that plug into the bulbs)
2 9005 Bulbs
2 9005 Harnesses
2 Hella 3 Prong Harness (see Pic) I got these bad boys from LORDCO- The guy had no idea where they came from and he gave them to me for free. The numbers stamped into the plastic are 12/74
6 Straight Wire Connectors
Optional
Solder
Small Soldering Torch
Shrink Wrap (the plastic which can be shrunk over connections to make them water tight)
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... make sure to specify the glue type as those are reasonably waterproof, the regular kind isin't.
HTH...
