Headlight wire harness FJ60 and FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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12 gauge wires to the headlights, 10 gauge to the battery. I use fusible link for all the harnesses I build. Fusible links are inexpensive and effective (I did destructive testing before I sold any harnesses--lot's of smoke and stink, but works really well). Landcruiser guys are used to the concept of fusible links. When it's time, you can send me whatever connectors you want me to use and I'll build them into the harness.
 
Thanks - This is on my to do list, right after a lift, new seats, and stop all the oil leaks. Looks like a fun project cant wait.




Yes. The picture where the module is mounted on top of the wheel well with one mounting bracket mounted to the VSV array mount is where the old, useless cruise control module used to be.
 
Harnesses are now available for the FJ40 Landcruiser as well as FJ6X. I am in the process of getting the WagonGear Guild website updated. In the meantime, if you wish to order a harness for an FJ40, please contact me by Mud PM.
 
Bump for a great product.

I purchased the standard 60 harness about a month ago. Got it less than a week after ordering (they are not made till you order b/c slcfj62 can make them specifically to suit your needs). The harness is extremely well made with high quality components, and you can tell he takes pride in his work.

EXCELLENT customer service after the sale- not just with the harness, but also answering my questions and providing guidance about bulbs and housings and electricty in general.

Took about 30 mins to install, including figuring out where i wanted to mount the relays. I installed Roundeyes at the same time as the harness, as well as IPF 80/60 superlow beam bulbs, so I didn't really do a before/after comparison with sealed beams, but i did do voltage drop and output measurements before and after and both were much improved. So even if you are just doing the harness upgrade, it will make a big difference over the tired, wimpy stock wiring, and you will be good to go to run high output bulbs if you decide to.

Two thumbs up. I will be getting another harness when I get around to fixin up my other 60.

thanks slcfj62

swamp60
 
Hate to sound like a broken record but I just received the harness I ordered from Wagongear (slcfj62) and am thrilled by the entire transaction! From start to finished the process was easy, professional and extremely helpful. As someone who really has no mechanical/electrical experience, I was able to install this product in no time. And when I did have questions, Erik answered them almost as fast as I could ask them. It is very well made and solved my lighting issues. Great product!!!!
 
Hi Erik,

I have a JDM (right hand drive)1988 HJ-61 that is 24 V. Would your ultimate harness work for this vehicle? Or would it need some modification? I have H4 headlights and have not been able to use the inner ones on high beam because of the ground issue. I used electrical tape to isolate the headlight but that wore through pretty quick. After my last night drive at the end of a 12 hour trip I know my eyes would love some more light up front!

Also, can you ship to Canada?
 
Hi Erik,

I have a JDM (right hand drive)1988 HJ-61 that is 24 V. Would your ultimate harness work for this vehicle? Or would it need some modification? I have H4 headlights and have not been able to use the inner ones on high beam because of the ground issue. I used electrical tape to isolate the headlight but that wore through pretty quick. After my last night drive at the end of a 12 hour trip I know my eyes would love some more light up front!

Also, can you ship to Canada?

I am currently investigating what it will take to make my harness work with the HJ6X with 24 volt systems. I am waiting for a scan/pic of the headlight schematic to know how the headlights are configured, and how they connect to the batteries. If you have that info and can send me the scans/pics of the schematics from the FSM, that would help. wiredwagon at comcast dot net.

Are your inner headlights Autopal or Hella? Those are the only two headlights I know of with metal housings for the H1 inner headlights. Your headlight fuse is probably blowing as soon as the black tape wears through?

One note about your 24 volt system. Because the headlights are 24 volts which is double that of a 12 volt vehicle, the current (amps) is only half. (watts = volts X amps). What this means is that my harness won't make as big a difference in the light output from your 24 volt headlights as if they were 12 volts. It will certainly allow you to use your metal H1s, and as far as amps goes, you could run 200 watt headlights which would of course be illegal except for offroad. In actuality, much over about 70 or 80 watts does not produce much more noticeable light output and is probably not worth the extra heat and strain on the alternator. But what I want to make sure you understand is that the larger wires and relays in my harness will give you everything your headlights have to offer, but you won't notice the huge difference that guys with 12 volt rigs see, because you are not experiencing near as much voltage drop in the wires and switches.

And I can ship to Canada, but the shipping costs go up to $25.
 
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Interested in your 60 harness. My headlamps suck. Will this still be plug and play for a Canadian BJ60 (its 12v)?

I think my harness will work without any modifications in your 12 volt BJ60. I have shipped a couple of them to Australia for the same rigs and the install had no problems. Your rig has two round headlights n'est pas?
 
just got a couple of these harnesses and they're fantastic! also have a couple more on order.

thanks again erik!

georg @ valley hybrids
 
I think my harness will work without any modifications in your 12 volt BJ60. I have shipped a couple of them to Australia for the same rigs and the install had no problems. Your rig has two round headlights n'est pas?

Its Canadian but still a 60. I have one round headlamp on each side. So, if I order the big set up, it will come with the relay box and I can run a set of aux lamps off of it?
 
Will installing this relay harness in a FJ62 help prevent the headlight switch from getting "corroded" (for lack of a better term) to where the high beams do not come on?
My high beam dash indicator comes on but the lights go out when you switch to high beams..I have cleaned the switch contacts and the high beams worked but they were corroded again in a fairly short time.
 
Toyota designed our headlight circuits so that all the headlight current goes through the high/low beam switch in the steering column which is in the ground path for the headlights. Over time, switching from low to high and back will cause some pitting in the switch contacts which is seen as black discoloration as well as the little divets. It's caused by arcing. Once the initial surface is breeched, even though you clean and polish it, the pitting returns pretty quickly. I think it is because the surface of the contacts is hardened a little. Once the contacts get pitted and then you sand and polish them smooth, the underlying softer material is exposed. This softer material doesn't stand up to switching that much current and the pitting returns rather quickly.

With my harness installed, headlight current is no longer going through any of the vehicle wires, switches, or relays. The headlights are now connected directly to the battery through the relays in my harness. The new harness uses the relays in the harness to switch the current to the headlights, so no headlight current goes through the high/low switch or the vehicle headlight relay any more.

The high/low switch and the headlight on/off switch which controls the vehicle headlight relay are still important, because they control the harness functions, but the amount of current that the high/low switch and the vehicle headlight relay are now switching is very small. So, to make a long story short, your high/low switch contacts will no longer experience any pitting because the headlight harness is now switching the power to the headlights.

Make sense?
 
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Toyota designed our headlight circuits so that all the headlight current goes through the high/low beam switch in the steering column which is in the ground path for the headlights. Over time, switching from low to high and back will cause some pitting in the switch contacts which is seen as black discoloration as well as the little divets. It's caused by arcing. Once the initial surface is breached, even though you clean and polish it, the pitting returns pretty quickly. I think it is because the surface of the contacts is hardened a little. Once the contacts get pitted and then you sand and polish them smooth, the underlying softer material is exposed. This softer material doesn't stand up to switching that much current and the pitting returns rather quickly.

With my harness installed, headlight current is no longer going through any of the vehicle wires, switches, or relays. The headlights are now connected directly to the battery through the relays in my harness. The new harness uses the relays in the harness to switch the current to the headlights, so no headlight current goes through the high/low switch or the vehicle headlight relay any more.

The high/low switch and the headlight on/off switch which controls the vehicle headlight relay are still important, because they control the harness functions, but the amount of current that the high/low switch and the vehicle headlight relay are now switching is very small. So, to make a long story short, your high/low switch contacts will no longer experience any pitting because the headlight harness is now switching the power to the headlights.

Make sense?

Yes, that is what I was hoping for. I am sold. Thanks.
 
Derelict which one did you buy?
I have just been reading through all the posts here. I have a BJ60 as well...
I also have a set of Bosch H4 housings already (also have some used Hella H4 housings that I pulled off my other truck), not sure if there is an advantage to either one?
 
Either the FJ60 Standard Harness or the Ultimate Harness will work with your BJ60 as I think all the BJ60s have 12 volt systems. You probably won't notice much difference between your Bosch and your Hella headlights. Both of them are very good. The Bosch are more expensive, if that means anything.
 

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