Headlight troubleshooting thread (1 Viewer)

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Headlight troubleshooting thread and how to aim your headlights.

I have had numerous requests for help in troubleshooting headlight problems. In order for a headlight UPGRADE harness to work properly, the stock headlights and the stock headlight harness must work correctly. So here is what I know about the headlights in these rigs. The FJ60 and FJ62 headlight circuits are nearly identical with a couple of exceptions. Here are the differences: the FJ62 has two extra high beam headlights, some of the wires are different colors, and the wiring positions in the headlight plugs are different. Please consult your Toyota Repair Manual (also called FSM) wiring diagram to troubleshoot your headlights.

The headlight switch is at the end of the turn signal lever. You twist it two clicks forward to turn on the head light relay. You should hear the relay click on. You can also turn on the headlight relay when the headlight switch is in the off position by pulling back the turn signal lever to "flash" your high beams. If you locate the relay, the wire coming from the wiring loom to the headlight relay is RED for both FJ60 and FJ62. This wire should always have battery voltage regardless of the position of the key. When the headlight relay is turned on, 12 volts is supplied through the RED/YELLOW wire to the two 15 amp headlight fuses for an FJ62, and through another RED wire to the two 10 amp headlight fuses for an FJ60. The headlight(s) on either side of both rigs are fused independently. If the relay clicks on, and both fuses are good, then you should have 12 volts out to each headlight via a RED/WHITE on the left and a RED/BLUE wire on the right for FJ62s, and a RED/WHITE wire on the left and a RED/BLACK wire on the right if you have an FJ60. For both rigs, the RED/YELLOW wire coming from the headlights is the HI beam ground wire and goes to the steering column HI/LO switch. The RED/GREEN wire coming from the headlights is the LO beam ground wire and goes to both the steering column HI/LO switch and the Hi Beam Indicator in the dash.

So, the first step in troubleshooting your headlights is to turn your headlight switch on and with either a voltmeter or a test light, verify that you have 12 volts out at each headlight. Make sure you use a good vehicle ground point for your test probe. If you don't have 12 volts at each headlight (yes all four for an FJ62 and both for an FJ60), then you have a bad relay, bad fuse(s) or a broken or cut wire. You will need to find and fix the problem before you can continue troubleshooting.

Toyota uses what we call "switched ground" to select Hi or Lo beams. So, to recap, all the headlights get 12 volts when you turn on the headlight switch. You select either Hi or Lo beams by completing the path to ground through the turn signal lever forward/back position. When the turn signal lever is pushed forward, the ground path is established for the Hi beam headlights. When the turn signal lever is pulled back, the Lo beam headlights have a path to ground. Pulling the turn signal lever all the way back is the spring loaded "flash" position and will light the Hi beams. Release the turn signal lever, and it should return to the Lo beams position.

So, if you have 12 volts at all the headlights, but either Hi beams or Lo beams are not working, you most likely have a bad Hi/Lo switch that is not completing the path to ground properly for either the HI beams, the LO beams, or both (see exception below before you tear into your steering column). Here is a good thread for disassembling the Hi/Lo switch in the steering column. If cleaning the switch does not restore the ground connections, then you may need to replace the switch.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/110746-high-beam-lights-fixed-finally.html

and this one:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/345255-high-beam-fix-writeup.html

There is one exception. If neither Lo beam headlight works, AND your high beam indicator light in the dash does not work when you turn on your Hi beam headlights, then the culprit is most likely both low beam headlights are burned out. This can happen if you frequently drive with your Lo beam headlights on during the day for visibility. Both may burn out without you realizing it.

If the high beam indicator in the dash comes on when your HI/LO switch is in the low position, AND your low beam headlights are not on, then you have a dirty or faulty combination switch.

The Hi beam indicator light in the dash works this way: It has a permanent path to ground. The other side of the indicator light is connected to the ground side of the Lo beam headlights. When the Lo beam headlights are on, the ground side of the Lo beam headlights is grounded through the HI/LO switch, and both sides of the Hi beam indicator light are at ground potential. When you switch to Hi beams, the ground to the LO beam headlights is removed, and the HI Beam Indicator has a path to 12 volts through the LO Beam headlight filaments which act as a wire for the very low wattage indicator light, and the non grounded side of the Hi beam indicator light "floats" up to 12 volts through the LO beam headlight elements.

So that's it. You now know how the headlights work, what color the wires are and what to expect on each wire. Use your volt meter or your test light to track down where your problem lies. Once your stock wiring is working, you are ready to upgrade your headlight harness to relieve the stress on the stock wiring, the stock headlight relay, fuses, and the HI/LO switch in the steering column. A headlight upgrade harness will also allow you to use higher wattage headlights that really light up the night.

EDIT: See post #6 in this thread for how to aim your headlights.
 
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Awesome thread! The part about a broken or cut wire made me think about the PO's trailer light control he put on the rig.
5093449759_80d2192373_z.jpg

He has some red wire coming off the relay block or engine compartment attached to the black battery wire of the device. I am building up the free time and gonads to take the dash apart. Do you think this is necessary or is this red wire a red herring?
 
I can't answer specifically, but any wiring the previous owner (PO) has done should be immediately suspect. That said, trailer wiring should not impact your headlights. The trailer wiring should be for tail lights, marker lights and brake lights. So, the PO would really have to be way off base to screw up the headlights by wiring in trailer lights. But, it is not outside the realms of possibility.
 
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slcfj62, I used your headlight wiring diagram and relay plan on my recent build, hoping to get some good light from my FJ60. I am rather disappointed in the amount of light produced. I think the problem is that I am using sealed beam halogen headlights (OEM style) from NAPA.

Has anyone replaced their sealed beam headlights with newer H4 or H7 type lights? Any improvement? Ebay is rife with kits, but they run from really cheap to really expensive, not much in between. Sources for better headlights? After I finish my front bumper, I plan to install some Hella driving lights to aid in illumination.
 
Headlight Aiming Instructions

An important part of keeping your headlights in working order is making sure they are aimed correctly. If you have never aimed your headlights since you acquired your rig, or if you have recently replaced your headlights, you should aim them for better visibility and to make sure you are not blinding oncoming traffic. These instructions will help you aim H4 headlights, fog lights, and driving lights. You can try aiming your stock sealed beam headlights this way, but because they have so much stray light and poor vertical cut-off, you may not be totally successful.

So here are some great instructions for aiming head, fog and driving lights that I lifted from this web page:

Upgrading Your Lighting System

You never know when a web page will disappear, so I thought I would grab this info and put it here. Now let's hope MUD stays around for a while.

Daniel Stern also has good instructions for doing this:

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

So here we go with my "borrowed" headlight aiming instructions.

QUOTE:

Aiming your headlamps​

If you haven't figured it out yet, I think that aiming is important. Your lights are dangerous and ineffective when improperly aimed. There are specialized machines that aim headlamps very accurately - but these tend to be in the hands of "official, certified" shops who will either call the light cops or charge you for aiming and even give you a certificate saying they're aimed, but not do anything. So it's best to just learn to aim them yourself.

The basic goal is to get the beams parallel to your direction of travel, low enough that they don't blind oncoming traffic, and the same height. You should see the low beam cutoff on the cars in front of you.

First, find a level stretch of driveway that is adjacent to a wall or garage door (to act as the aiming screen). Prepare the car in normal travel trim (i.e., luggage, fuel and passenger load simulated). Roll the car up to the wall. Mark the headlight centers both vertically and horizontally with a heavy felt tip on the screen. (You might want to use a large piece of cardboard and save it to be re-used on the same car; these days I tend to stick a couple of Post-Its on the wall and be done with it.) Mark the center of any auxiliary light as well. Now, roll the car straight back, 25 feet. Scribe a straight (horizontal) line between the headlight centers (line B). Measure down 3" and draw another horizontal line (D). Do the same for your auxiliary lights. One at a time, aim the lights as follows (turn off or cover the lights not being aimed):

Low Beams. The correct visual aim for low beams is with the top edge of the beam at horizontal D. The point at which the cutoff begins to rise to the right should be located straight ahead of the lamp at the intersection of D and C.

High Beams. The correct visual aim for high beams is with the center of the high intensity zone at horizontal, straight ahead of the lamp as indicated by circles C1 and C2. When aiming high beams on a four headlamp system, cover the adjacent headlights.

Auxiliary Lamps. To aim your lamps, turn the lamp to be aimed on and cover or turn off all other lamps. Loosen the nuts on the mounting bolts and move the lamps until the light falls into the place recommended by the aiming diagram.

For Fog Lamps: light should fall between lines B and D as indicated by shaded rectangles.

For Driving Lamps: light should fall straight ahead of the lamps at the intersection of lines B and C1 and C2 as indicated by circles.

Tighten the nuts on the mounting bolts securely when aiming is completed.
aiming.jpg
 
Thanks for the tip on both high beam bulbs burning out. Driving the other night I hit the high's and they both came on and then went right back out together with the turn signal lever still forward. I had never had both bulbs burn out at the same time, but that is what happened. I just knew it had to be the switch. thanks.
 
slcfj62

Thanks for starting this thread.

I am going thru some rehab/upgrades on my brown 60 right now and the headlights were my next project, (along with general vehicle electrical).

The info you have already provided here is just what I needed to kick start my brain into electricity mode....

swamp60
 
Upgrading my harness to an IPF harness was one of my favorite upgrades i've done.....waaaaaay bright lights!
Highly recommend it!
 
I had both hi beams burn out at the same time. Replaced them both and after about 5 minutes of use they both burned out again. Any idea on what is up with that?
 
I had both hi beams burn out at the same time. Replaced them both and after about 5 minutes of use they both burned out again. Any idea on what is up with that?

Well, that is a weird one. I would think only an over voltage condition could cause that, but you would have other lights burning out as well, not to mention your voltmeter needle pegging. You don't have a 24 volt system do you?
 
Sorry for the bother but I might be reading this incorrectly. See the below quote from your post.
From this quote it looks like there are 4 wires to each headlight.
I know it probably my interpretation.
But the outside headlights on a FJ62 have 3 wires to each. With the headlight switch on, 2 of the wires have positive 12 volts and one negative. In your text below you list 4 wires going to the headlights.
Or are you referring to low headlight and low headlight?
Now I'm confused.
When I turn my brights on, my low headlights (outer lights) turn off.
Also, why do the outer (low beam) headlights have 2 positive 12 volt leads?



. If the relay clicks on, and both fuses are good, then you should have 12 volts out to each headlight via a RED/WHITE on the left and a RED/BLUE wire on the right for FJ62s, and a RED/WHITE wire on the left and a RED/BLACK wire on the right if you have an FJ60. For both rigs, the RED/YELLOW wire coming from the headlights is the HI beam ground wire and goes to the steering column HI/LO switch. The RED/GREEN wire coming from the headlights is the LO beam ground wire and goes to both the steering column HI/LO switch and the Hi Beam Indicator in the dash.
 
Only 3 to each, as I read it the hot lead is different (red/white vs red/blue) between the drivers side and passenger side. When in high beam, both inner and outer housings should be lit. On the outers, the common lead will be hot, the high lead will be ground, and the low lead will show hot, as there is continuity through the low beam filament to the hot lead, and the low lead is grounded through the high beam indicator (the indicator bulb has much higher resistance than the low beam filament, so there is essentially no voltage drop across the low beam filament).

It's been years since I monkeyed with my light wiring, hope this helps.
 
After much thought and even an attempts at a wiring harness Ive decided against adding the new harness.
Im sure there are many benefits, but:
-I powered one side (low) headlight direct to battery (while on a powerful charger) and there wasn't much of a difference.
-I don't want to modify a perfectly working setup.
I totally get that people do this and there are great benefits. But given that there isn't much of a light output difference on the stock low headlight, for me its not worth it.
While the light output isn't great at night, its fine. I don't live in the country. If I did it would be more of an issue.
Thanks
 
Awesome write up, finally got the headlights back to factory wiring, the high beam dashlight now works and the inners don't glow on low beam.......... Now I just need to spotlights sorted..
 
Has anyone come across a this situation. when headlights are turned on, no lights, and all cluster lights come on (both turnsignal indicator on solid) also seatbealt buzzer on. Pretty sure there is a short. but having a hard time finding it. when like this most other electrical equipment stop working (wipers etc) but strangely the turn signal lights do still work. Just started happening recently. FJ62
 
Good evening I had an accident in the Headlight Harness and battery, everything was burned (I almost lost the car) fj62.

Now I reconstruct the wiring, can you help me with some photos of the battery connectors and lights cables?

This topic has been very useful.

Greetings.
 
Good evening I had an accident in the Headlight Harness and battery, everything was burned (I almost lost the car) fj62.

Now I reconstruct the wiring, can you help me with some photos of the battery connectors and lights cables?

This topic has been very useful.

Greetings.


Do you want to rewire in the stock configuration or upgraded? If everything burned up then it would be an easy time to do the upgrade. Basically use the stock switch and stock relay to power 2 or 4 relays depending if you want to run single relays per each light or 2 pairs of relays...one for high and one for low.
 
correct I will place them 2 independent relays,
the inconvenience right now I have it with 3 cables that I do not know where they should be connected, this is why I need the photos since everything was original and the plugs were fused by the fire I can only guide myself with the colors of the harnees.

if someone can help me ... grateful

foto cables.jpg
 
Ok, peeps. Let me throw this at you:

1989 fj62. IPF harness, H4s. When in high beam mode, all four getting 12 volts. When in low beam mode, lows only getting around 6v. Harness was bench tested and fine. Cleaned connections at the switch.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
 

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