Header for 2F engine. What are some good mods to make more hp and tq with this engine? Thanks for any info (12 Viewers)

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Building a racing tractor? A header, carb, and distributor will help. Buy and put them on when the OEM poops out. A 4, 5, or 6 speed tanny maybe a 3:1 or 4:1 transfer case. Perhaps a 4.88 or 5 something pumpkins. I have no use for fuel injection or automatic transmissions - although I did like the Allison 6 speed in a big uhaul many years ago.

A 383 stroker was a popular Chevota option.
 
The 2F engine was designed to make useable torque at low rpm, it makes 80% of its rated torque not far above idle rpm. Great for for four-wheeling, its intended purpose. With enough time and money, you can increase hp but it's an uphill battle from the start with flat-tappet inline six. As has been suggested, an LS or other small-block chevy swap is the way to go (in my opinion) if you must have more hp.
 
I took all the emissions equipment out, plugged the air injector ports, put a Rochester carb and header on my 2F and changed the distributer to a different year. Could not tell the difference by the seat of the pants. When I had to swap to the 155F and kept all the mods that I had for the 2F and bolted them to the 155F including the clutch and flywheel and could not tell any difference. It ran and that was important.

The header leaked a lot and needed to replace burned out gaskets when adjusting the valves did not reduce the clicking sound.

Now I have a Cummins in front of the H55F and split transfer case. It is still not ready to drive so cant say what difference there is yet.
 
Building a racing tractor? A header, carb, and distributor will help. Buy and put them on when the OEM poops out. A 4, 5, or 6 speed tanny maybe a 3:1 or 4:1 transfer case. Perhaps a 4.88 or 5 something pumpkins. I have no use for fuel injection or automatic transmissions - although I did like the Allison 6 speed in a big uhaul many years ago.

A 383 stroker was a popular Chevota option.
I had a SB given to me to build with a stroker kit but did not like the options at the time to convert and heard about the transfer case housing breaking and saw the first broken Birfield outer sitting on a counter that was sheared all from a Chevy 400 making 400hp supposedly.

Then started looking at diesel with more torque but lower horse power gains.
 
Mill the head to increase compression. I milled the head on my '76 by 0.08" and it made a noticeable improvement even my wife could feel. The only downside was I had to use 89 octane.
 
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Mill the head to increase compression. I milled the head on my '76 by 0.08" and it made a noticeable improvement even my wife could feel.
When mine needed a valve job I had the head milled and the shop said they milled it 0.050" and ran fine at 6200' and above but when took it up to Portland, OR and it lasted a year and I put the biggest jets I could get for the Rochester carb and got not keep it from knocking and was pulling the cock knob in and out to control the knock.

Then ended up with a 155F to get back to Wyoming.
 
I hit the lootery I'm building a 283 Vet engine - I like RPM's. Likely go the Porsche and Ferrari factory too.

One of my college buddies hand built the 383 and used the Ranger Overdrive as the adapter to his 4 speed - he was very happy with the results.
 
Engines. Many options. Easy/Simple is a chevy 350 carbed. Mine has one behind a 3 spd on the floor. Its wicked. Does 80 mph all day! Love Toyota engines. But this one gets my grubby hands over them most days.

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