Eric -
Thanks for your post. My first reaction was, "hey.. good catch." I have made my share of mistakes... but logical or not, my remarks on this one are fundamentally correct... and so are Rick's. Let me clairify the error I did make, and add the history.
This all came up here over a year ago, and several of the others went over this same ground. I had my doubts about the external amp being an issue, but like Rick would rather err on the side of safety. Anyway, here are the facts:
1. When the ignition is at "Acc" or "On," there is 12v+ on pin 1 of S11 which is plugged into the external amp. This is true whether you are using the large, white R2 connector (ext amp); or the two smaller, gray R1 & R3 connectors (int amp).... because this 12v+ feed is independent of these connectors. This is some type of idling voltage, but apparently not driving the outputs*
2. When the OEM head unit is powered up through R2, the B+ voltage that powers the output transistors of the external amp* appears on pin 1 of S12 which is also plugged into the OEM ext amp. When you power up an aftermarket head unit plugged into R1 & R3, you are not bypassing the OEM amp, but just feeding it from another source (R2, and R1 & R3 have a common junction at I14). So, the B+ voltage still appears on pin 1 of S12.
* I'm making some educated guesses here because the OEM ext amp is a "black box" and without schematics, there is no way to be absolutely certain.
And because I originally believed Eric's take on this, and not the confusing schematics, I got in there with my meter and measured the d**m thing using both configurations. Folks, that OEM ext amp is powered up and running either way you slice it.
And like Rick, I believe that having even an idling audio output - or even speakers - tied to the system creates a potential for the kinds of problems that these threads are often all about.
Solution: Pull the glove box (two screws), and pull the two connectors out of the amp and tape them off. NOW the amp has been bypassed.
Cheers, R -