Head Gasket Blues

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Valve, 25620-66010, $136.15
Sleeve, 90410-18002, $6.11
Nut, 90402-26002, $3.43
Pipe, 25601-66010, $47.14
Valve body plug, 90341-10009 (93 federal only), $2.59
 
Okay--prepare for another stupid question.

I'm down to the head bolts as my last obstacle before being able to take out the head gasket and set it on fire. I've come up with some ingenious methods for getting to difficult bolts, broken several things I really wish I hadn't, and uttered more than a year's worth of swearing.

I sit, feeling victorious, in my engine bay ready to slowly ply loose the head bolts only to find that I NEED AN SST TO GET THE STUPID BOLTS OUT! I have all of the tools recommended in IDougs DVD/info but NOT the socket which will take these bolts out. They look like some freak torx variant. Is this a 93/94 thing? Do I really have to get an SST to get these things out?

Please help those less fortunate (think short bus) than yourself.
 
Okay--prepare for another stupid question.

I'm down to the head bolts as my last obstacle before being able to take out the head gasket and set it on fire. I've come up with some ingenious methods for getting to difficult bolts, broken several things I really wish I hadn't, and uttered more than a year's worth of swearing.

I sit, feeling victorious, in my engine bay ready to slowly ply loose the head bolts only to find that I NEED AN SST TO GET THE STUPID BOLTS OUT! I have all of the tools recommended in IDougs DVD/info but NOT the socket which will take these bolts out. They look like some freak torx variant. Is this a 93/94 thing? Do I really have to get an SST to get these things out?

Please help those less fortunate (think short bus) than yourself.

IIRC, a 12-point 13mm socket will do the trick (though it could be a 12point, 12mm socket). I forgot.

Good luck.
-o-
 
I'm making this harder than it needs to be, aren't I?

I owe all you guys beers.
 
No special tool. It's just a 12 point socket. Agree the heads look funny though. Also, if it makes you feel any better, I also broke the EGR valve on the 93 after careful prep. It was the only thing that broke in the entire job on both trucks. Dan's dogs ate well that day...

DougM
 
Hope it's not your only vehicle. Ditto on the sensors. I broke a knock sensor, coolant temp sensor, and the coolant temp gauge sensor. Good luck.
 
Hey Browndog,

Where are you in Orygun?

If you're anywhere near the Rogue Valley, I'd love to come over and check out your progress.

Curtis
Medford, OR
 
As others have said Browndog, that's nothing.You already broke it and move on.Keep on going pull them out.

:beer:

Ummm... I think mine looked more shiny :D

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you two disgust me! :)
 
Yeah--seriously. I was just getting on here to see how clean I should be trying to get the mating surfaces before I button her up.

I've been using green scotch brite pads (for the head and block) and am nowhere near as clean as those two. What were you guys using?

Also, I appear to have some pitting/indentation on the block mating surface where the metal rings of the gasket rest. Is this normal?

Cheers,
 
I know using scotch brite pads are very common but I read that it's not a good idea with aluminum heads. Because of the large difference in thermal expansion you want those mating surfaces as smooth as possible. I polished mine using some 600 grit paper wet with alcohol.
 
I'll weigh in on the "smooth mating surfaces" matter since it comes up once in a while. The theory behind this seems to be that the head and block are sliding around on each other during heating and cooling so you want a mirror finish to let the head gasket slide uniformely. I don't think that's what Rick is saying here, but I wanted to clarify some recent posts on it.

Consider what's being proposed for a second before you buy into that being for sliding purposes. A head is bolted down with a total clamping force of - what - ten thousand pounds? The gasket also has a tacky coating on both contact faces. As in grippy - especially when subjected to all that clamping pressure. The plasticky coating helps maintain sealing against gases and fluids, and it also allows for some slight movement of the two surfaces due to expansion and contraction. When I say movement, it's not actual movement as what's happening is that ALL the metal is moving in ALL directions and the movement is not actual 'movement' like we think of two things moving against each other. So the elastic coating means there's a bit of give to the head gasket structure that would not be there if it was all metal which would result in abrasive movements.

In my opinion, the mating surfaces should be very smooth but some light texture is allowable. I realize that's not really helpful, as 'light texture' is subjective but I want to make the point that mirror smooth is not required in order to provide a 'sliding' surface. Having said all that, a mirror surface IS a superior sealing surface because there are nearer to zero tiny little places for delamination to begin. Can't argue with that, but I don't feel it's neccessary on a low output, low compression truck engine.

My intention here is to keep folks from a panicky feeling that they did not achieve a mirror smooth mating surface, or that they will have to if they do this work. Some of what I'm posting here is information from the largest engine head shop for hundreds of miles in any direction where I had my heads serviced while off for the HG replacement.

DougM
 
I'll weigh in on the "smooth mating surfaces" matter since it comes up once in a while. The theory behind this seems to be that the head and block are sliding around on each other during heating and cooling so you want a mirror finish to let the head gasket slide uniformely. I don't think that's what Rick is saying here, but I wanted to clarify some recent posts on it.

Consider what's being proposed for a second before you buy into that being for sliding purposes. A head is bolted down with a total clamping force of - what - ten thousand pounds? The gasket also has a tacky coating on both contact faces. As in grippy - especially when subjected to all that clamping pressure. The plasticky coating helps maintain sealing against gases and fluids, and it also allows for some slight movement of the two surfaces due to expansion and contraction. When I say movement, it's not actual movement as what's happening is that ALL the metal is moving in ALL directions and the movement is not actual 'movement' like we think of two things moving against each other. So the elastic coating means there's a bit of give to the head gasket structure that would not be there if it was all metal which would result in abrasive movements.

In my opinion, the mating surfaces should be very smooth but some light texture is allowable. I realize that's not really helpful, as 'light texture' is subjective but I want to make the point that mirror smooth is not required in order to provide a 'sliding' surface. Having said all that, a mirror surface IS a superior sealing surface because there are nearer to zero tiny little places for delamination to begin. Can't argue with that, but I don't feel it's neccessary on a low output, low compression truck engine.

My intention here is to keep folks from a panicky feeling that they did not achieve a mirror smooth mating surface, or that they will have to if they do this work. Some of what I'm posting here is information from the largest engine head shop for hundreds of miles in any direction where I had my heads serviced while off for the HG replacement.

DougM

:cheers:
 
VERY IMPORTANT.... DO THIS......

Before you put the head back on, look at it very very carefully. Look at every spot and make sure you know what goes where. Make sure that anything you took of on the bench you put back on. It is very easy to leave something off, especially around number 6 cylinder, such as the EGR valve and tube you had problems with, and forget about it. Then notice it after and have a very tough time putting it back on.

also, now it a good time when the head is off to put the cams back in. tourque them up and check the shims. Its a very easy job that wont require any special tools if it is on the bench, just measure the gaps and figure out which one need to be change. its a PITA doing this on the truck.

The shims only deal with the valve noise, they wont effect performance, if you want a quiet truck, check them now.

good luck
Scott.
 
To each their own but if one searches the web you can find recommendations that using an abrasive pad, and some actually name it a scotch brite pad, is not recommended and not to be used on an aluminum head as the required smoothness for correct sealing and longevity can't be achieved. They recommend solvents with light scraping and then clean up with some fine wet/dry paper wet.

Cast iron heads are a different story and using a scotch brite mounted in a drill is not a problem.

here is a write up that might be of some help
 

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