Head gasket and free beer (1 Viewer)

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Problems...

I do have pre-ignition now...and it idles low at stop lie it's gping to die.

But mother %&! £#&...i think it was starting to get hot on my test drive. Just barely over half way but damn...

Could it all be timing?
 
After a battery disconnect, it will take a couple start and stop cycles to get your idle normal again. Or your over heating, that's another issue. How's the fan clutch? Radiator? Thermostat? Water pump?
 
Radiator...i got from a mud member that swapped for the copper one. I put it in last September. No cracks...same cap.

I replaced the thermostat and fan clutch right before the hg. It was overheating and I tried simple stuff first. There was no change so I figured it was time to do the hg.

Waterpump...no clue.

Watched a video on another guy with similar issues after he did the hg. His was timing...but he forgot to use the service bolt on the cams. That's not me but it does sound like timing.

Sometimes makes a strange sound when starting...like a hickup. Dies suddenly... or its idling fine and then the rpms drop.

Also, one of my egr studs is stripped. I got it pretty tight but I may need to replace it. A leak here caused some really horrible driving conditions about a month ago. Some folks here suggested a vacuum leak...sure enough...my egr bolt was loose.

Idk..tired tonight. I'll figure it out tomorrow but the overheating sucks. Maybe it was my imagination but I thought it was creapin up.
 
Went for a short drive....bad pre-ignition and there was none before.

Temp is Def going up. Didn't let it get much above middle, but it was creepin that way.

Looks like the temp issue was not the hg but a separate issue.
 
reading and searching... and reading some more...Im thinking I might have ruined my radiator with the bars leak. I can try to replace the cap but when I went out to take it for another test drive, I checked the fluid in the rad. There was plenty of pressure when I took the cap off.

From what I can tell... either I have something plugged, my water pump is shot, or I just need a new radiator. I'll check for plugged up lines tomorrow. I don't know how to check the water pump. The thermostat and fan clutch are both new.

I honestly think a new radiator is needed.

I did throw a code on my last test drive. I'll read it in the morning and hopefully get a better idea what's needed.

I guess I should have expected some issues. I've never done anything this extensive. The FSM is good though... I took it slow and tried to follow every step.
 
reading and searching... and reading some more...Im thinking I might have ruined my radiator with the bars leak. I can try to replace the cap but when I went out to take it for another test drive, I checked the fluid in the rad. There was plenty of pressure when I took the cap off.

From what I can tell... either I have something plugged, my water pump is shot, or I just need a new radiator. I'll check for plugged up lines tomorrow. I don't know how to check the water pump. The thermostat and fan clutch are both new.

I honestly think a new radiator is needed.
I dont intend to insult, but is there a chance your thermostat is in backwards?
 
Wouldn't be at all surprised if the Barrs plugged up your radiator. Also, check your timing. Are you certain the timing chain did not slip a tooth on the crank sprocket while you had everything apart?
 
sounds like timing due to the pre ignition. Do you have a scangauge or reader? Don't trust the temp guage on the vehicle, see what it is really pulling. Of course I am assuming you have an OBD2 port.
 
I dont intend to insult, but is there a chance your thermostat is in backwards?

I will certainly check...but same symptom as before the thermostat was touched
 
Wouldn't be at all surprised if the Barrs plugged up your radiator. Also, check your timing. Are you certain the timing chain did not slip a tooth on the crank sprocket while you had everything apart?
Zip tied it and marked it...so I dont think so. The mark was in the same spot through the chain and sprocket at top center when I reassembled it.
 
I did read somewhere that it tooj 4-5 gallons. It only took 2 gallons of distilled water to fill it up.

I drove it with the heater on, let it cool, then topped it off.

Only added about a half galon more.
 
P0170....fuel trim bank 1

I think this could be a vacuum leak from my egr stud being stripped.

I'll get a new stud and tighten it down.

Might just order a new radiator. It is presenting the same symptoms with overheating as it was before the hg.

If the thermostat and fan clutch are both new...it's gotta be either the water pump or radiator....am I right?
 
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No, not really, just because it is new, doesn't mean that they worked! Toyota or is it autoz or Craig?? I do by parts from other suppliers but increasingly go back to OEM or Toyota. Only on parts where a failure doesn't matter a whole lot am I going back to the parts stores. Sole exception are brake pads and rotors and still running AZ rebuilt calipers. Still have not heard any earth shattering failures on .
 
You can test the fan clutch, look up how to do it on here. I don't wanna be liable for severed fingers.

Do you have a infrared thermometer thingamujiggy. Could check the radiator core temp in several spots and see what's up.
 
Ordered a tcy radiator off amazon...hoping it comes as a koyo. I've read that lots of people get lucky.

New studs and nuts will be in tomorrow.

Thursday, I'll work on it some more.
 
Had a few min to work on the cruiser today. Unfortunately, the egr studs wont be here till friday...hopefully. i got the rad. Came as tcy. Looks like I have to change the orientation of the bottom lines to be identical to the oem one but easy to do.

Looked at my water pump fr the first time. Doesn't look good...what is that?
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20160622_175245.webp
 
been quietly following along...mostly. persevere my mud brother.
i just swapped my water pump because i tore down the whole front end and thought why not. the 80 water pump is simply a bearing and an impeller. there is nothing to clog. water doesnt pass through it. if yours spins smooth still its probably fine. thats just corrosion it looks like.

keep at it.
 
Looks like coolant leak on pump, did you put thermostat in with the popper thingy at 12 o'clock, did you set timing to 3 degrees?
 

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