- Thread starter
- #81
Makes me feel 1000% better
Head gasket and free beer
- Thread starter bdruff
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Makes me feel 1000% better
The crack is at the top isn't it. Also not into a water jacket. Plus there was reference to another thread with the same crack was made I believe. Probably not going to pay if you replace it. Price it according to what you feel is right.
- Thread starter
- #83
Probably shouldn't be this big of a decision...but there seems to be a lot of factors to consider. My wife suggested going back to work. Money=Options. I've been focused on this for a few weeks now. I didn't think it would take this long, even though I was told several times that it would.
I was going to sell it before, and I probably still will in the end. I originally listed it for $4,500. I stated in the ad that I blew the HG and used Bars Leak. I also disclosed that the power steering was leaking. I know what 80's are going for in California and they are ridiculous in my area. There is one for $19,000 on a lot. It has 96,000 miles but it's still 20 years old.
I had an offer of $3,800 that I declined. Mine is rust free but the front seats are toast. The interior isn't horrible but it has been childized.
option A: Install the head tomorrow, JB Weld it, and Friday start bolting things on. Maybe be done on Sunday evening in time to drink a beer and watch the sun set on the tailgate of my now fixed truck. Polish it up as best as I can and ask ???. I fixed the power steering leak. I'm installing all new fuel injector clips, pcv valve, and both hoses on the valve cover, all new gaskets, new fan clutch, new thermostat. In September, I cleaned the throttle body and cleared p401 code and installed a new O2 sensor. It has a hitch and trailer brake but no lockers.
Option B: Buy a used head. I found a complete head with cams installed. It's 4 hours away and $250. I can't find anything near Fresno but if I go option B, I might wait it out until I find a closer option. I have a call into toy connection in Santa Clara too. I would at the very least, have to have the used head machined. My buddy only charged me $100 but a valve job would probably be $300-500. I could go this route, and then ask ???. I would be spending at the minimum $300-$800 more to do it this way. And yes, it would be done "Right", but could potentially be much more than $800 if everything doesn't go smooth.
I'm thinking option A: $5,200 and be good with $5,000. Or am I out of my mind... Would I be looking at something like $3,500 at best with the repaired head?
Option B: Could I ask $6,200 and expect $6,000? I'd have to just to break even.
I think the consensus is that although the fix is not ideal, it would most likely be fine.
In my experience, money spent on repairs will net you near zero in resale unless you have complete dealer history or something like that. The benefit of maintenance is a quicker/easier sale with fewer tire kickers and lowballers. I'd go with option A because the extra money spent on option B probably will not be recouped. The average buyer is probably not going to appreciate the difference between a fresh HG job with a slightly ghetto fix vs. fresh HG job with extra money spent to do it "right." Some buyers will care, but probably 80% will not (at least 60% will probably not even understand what you're telling them).
I have no idea if those prices are good for your area. I paid way too much for my LX and then had to dump $$$$$ into PM. Lesson: keep truck forever or prepare for wallet rape.
I have no idea if those prices are good for your area. I paid way too much for my LX and then had to dump $$$$$ into PM. Lesson: keep truck forever or prepare for wallet rape.
Probably shouldn't be this big of a decision...but there seems to be a lot of factors to consider. My wife suggested going back to work. Money=Options. I've been focused on this for a few weeks now. I didn't think it would take this long, even though I was told several times that it would.
I was going to sell it before, and I probably still will in the end. I originally listed it for $4,500. I stated in the ad that I blew the HG and used Bars Leak. I also disclosed that the power steering was leaking. I know what 80's are going for in California and they are ridiculous in my area. There is one for $19,000 on a lot. It has 96,000 miles but it's still 20 years old.
I had an offer of $3,800 that I declined. Mine is rust free but the front seats are toast. The interior isn't horrible but it has been childized.
option A: Install the head tomorrow, JB Weld it, and Friday start bolting things on. Maybe be done on Sunday evening in time to drink a beer and watch the sun set on the tailgate of my now fixed truck. Polish it up as best as I can and ask ???. I fixed the power steering leak. I'm installing all new fuel injector clips, pcv valve, and both hoses on the valve cover, all new gaskets, new fan clutch, new thermostat. In September, I cleaned the throttle body and cleared p401 code and installed a new O2 sensor. It has a hitch and trailer brake but no lockers.
Option B: Buy a used head. I found a complete head with cams installed. It's 4 hours away and $250. I can't find anything near Fresno but if I go option B, I might wait it out until I find a closer option. I have a call into toy connection in Santa Clara too. I would at the very least, have to have the used head machined. My buddy only charged me $100 but a valve job would probably be $300-500. I could go this route, and then ask ???. I would be spending at the minimum $300-$800 more to do it this way. And yes, it would be done "Right", but could potentially be much more than $800 if everything doesn't go smooth.
I'm thinking option A: $5,200 and be good with $5,000. Or am I out of my mind... Would I be looking at something like $3,500 at best with the repaired head?
Option B: Could I ask $6,200 and expect $6,000? I'd have to just to break even.
I think the consensus is that although the fix is not ideal, it would most likely be fine.
I would place zero value on any engine work done by a shade tree mechanic. How would I know it was done correctly and would not lead to other significant expenses? Verifiable documentation from a shop that would stand behind their work would add some value, but very little over a vehicle that was running good but hadn't had the same work done. I also am very leery of vehicles being sold with significant work just done. I don't see you getting ahead of this from dollars in to dollars out standpoint if the goal is selling it.
Is this thread about an 80 series or someone's portfolio? Buying an 80 series for anything other than personal enjoyment/hobbie/ because it facilitates actual off road adventures/ because you just think they are cool/nostalgia/etc. is a mistake because they are old. You either want an 80 or you don't. I say fix that bitch and take your family off the beaten path on a regular basis. The education and memories collected on these adventures far out weigh the cost of getting and keeping it running.
- Thread starter
- #89
It has been an awesome truck amd we've had a lot of fun in the mountains. The idea was to trade up to a newer LC. We need at least 6 seats to go anywhere as a family but sometimes those trips are long freeway trips too.
It's been written that the 100 series is more comfy and more powerful and is a good choice for easier overlanding a point and the 80 shines in tougher terrain. Just keep making those memories.
Probably shouldn't be this big of a decision...but there seems to be a lot of factors to consider. My wife suggested going back to work. Money=Options. I've been focused on this for a few weeks now. I didn't think it would take this long, even though I was told several times that it would.
I was going to sell it before, and I probably still will in the end. I originally listed it for $4,500. I stated in the ad that I blew the HG and used Bars Leak. I also disclosed that the power steering was leaking. I know what 80's are going for in California and they are ridiculous in my area. There is one for $19,000 on a lot. It has 96,000 miles but it's still 20 years old.
I had an offer of $3,800 that I declined. Mine is rust free but the front seats are toast. The interior isn't horrible but it has been childized.
option A: Install the head tomorrow, JB Weld it, and Friday start bolting things on. Maybe be done on Sunday evening in time to drink a beer and watch the sun set on the tailgate of my now fixed truck. Polish it up as best as I can and ask ???. I fixed the power steering leak. I'm installing all new fuel injector clips, pcv valve, and both hoses on the valve cover, all new gaskets, new fan clutch, new thermostat. In September, I cleaned the throttle body and cleared p401 code and installed a new O2 sensor. It has a hitch and trailer brake but no lockers.
Option B: Buy a used head. I found a complete head with cams installed. It's 4 hours away and $250. I can't find anything near Fresno but if I go option B, I might wait it out until I find a closer option. I have a call into toy connection in Santa Clara too. I would at the very least, have to have the used head machined. My buddy only charged me $100 but a valve job would probably be $300-500. I could go this route, and then ask ???. I would be spending at the minimum $300-$800 more to do it this way. And yes, it would be done "Right", but could potentially be much more than $800 if everything doesn't go smooth.
I'm thinking option A: $5,200 and be good with $5,000. Or am I out of my mind... Would I be looking at something like $3,500 at best with the repaired head?
Option B: Could I ask $6,200 and expect $6,000? I'd have to just to break even.
I think the consensus is that although the fix is not ideal, it would most likely be fine.
Put what you've got back together, fire it up and find that guy who offered $3,800.
I agree. Also, cracks have a way of continuing. I had a similar crack in the head of my sons 4Runner 3RZ when I pulled it (due to a couple bad valves). Replaced it with a rebuilt head from National Cylinder Head Exchange. They do nice work at what I consider reasonable prices.
- Thread starter
- #93
How deep are the diagnal holes? I know I asked but didn't get a definitive answer. Are they all the same depth? The front seem to be only about 3 inches...whereas the bsck ones are more like 6 inches deep.
*edit* I bought an 18" 1/8 bit... so we'll see
*edit* I bought an 18" 1/8 bit... so we'll see
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #94
Marlin Crawlers happens to be down the street from me. I stopped in there and talked to them. They said, replace it. They also said that 6 months ago, they sold a complete engine with a blown bottom end for $150. That would have been the kind of deal I'm looking for.
I still am not 100% sure. I'm leaning towards repairing it but I haven't completely made up my mind. The more I work on it, the less I want to sell it too but in my mind, I was upgrading to something I would love just as much. I'll clean it tonight and prep it for the gasket. I'll do the fuel filter, put the power steering back together and try to completely flush the radiator.
Tomorrow... if nothing shows itself, I'll put the head on and JB Weld it. Heck... maybe I'll fix it and drive it for another 15,000 miles before I sell it. Who knows, but I really don't want to cancel our family trip at the end of the month. I can get it put together, and drive it for a few hundred miles before we go.
Thanks for all the opinions, help, and support. And for calling me a shade tree, ghetto fixin mechanic... This forum really is a cool place.
Just caught up on the thread. I feel your pain man. Im with Baldi on this one. Fix it right and keep it & use it. If you need more/rear seats you can have mine. Ill never use them. Good luck brother. 
Are you replacing the head bolts?
- Thread starter
- #98
No. FSM says normal is 10.86-11 mm. Minimum is 10.6. My bolts were just barely under 11. I soaked them in my drained motor oil overnight and will clean them real good but they should be fine.
- Thread starter
- #99
Pulled the trigger...
Feel good about it actually. The machine shop did a good job grinding it down. I couldn't find any part of the crack when I got it back.
Head went on fairly easy. Would have been nice to get in the bay and have someone hand it to me..but it was doable by myself.
Head bolts were easier than I expected. I just took my time and kept the fsm in the bay with me with a big breaker bar. A short extention gave me more position options on most of the bolts because I could clear the spark plug tubes. The back ones needed a shorter reach.
I filled the groove and grinded spot with the JB weld and used a sharp edge to smooth the surface. I stuffed a rag down into the valve but it isn't dripping down so I'm not worried.
I closed the lid and will let it set, undisturbed till tomorrow.
I'll work on the new injector clips tomorrow.
Feel good about it actually. The machine shop did a good job grinding it down. I couldn't find any part of the crack when I got it back.
Head went on fairly easy. Would have been nice to get in the bay and have someone hand it to me..but it was doable by myself.
Head bolts were easier than I expected. I just took my time and kept the fsm in the bay with me with a big breaker bar. A short extention gave me more position options on most of the bolts because I could clear the spark plug tubes. The back ones needed a shorter reach.
I filled the groove and grinded spot with the JB weld and used a sharp edge to smooth the surface. I stuffed a rag down into the valve but it isn't dripping down so I'm not worried.
I closed the lid and will let it set, undisturbed till tomorrow.
I'll work on the new injector clips tomorrow.
looks good. 
