Head gasket and free beer

[TFord250]

I usually use a pneumatic angle grinder and some 3M pads to buff it off. Make sure to Stay flat, go slow, use pressure to keep from spinning too fast(no sparks). But be very careful between cylinders it's easy to slip and round off the edges. No Bueno. Not sure how deep they are supposed to be. Use air to blow out ports and a rag to keep the debris from getting in your mouth (if you're a mouth breather like me. Ha.) or in the cylinders etc. But I've only used this method on cats and Detroits. And what I do isn't always right. Someone correct me if I'm wrong for the 1FZ

 

[Kernal]

Do you plan on removing/inpsecting the oil pump cooler?

 

[bdruff]

Do you plan on removing/inpsecting the oil pump cooler?

If the gasket comes in the full hg kit...not buying extra...only necessity

 

[l1coeea9]

Great job so far.

During my HG job (see sig) I ended up having to replace my head it was so far out of tolerance. If you purchased the OEM kit - titled "Grind Kit" it comes with new valve seals, etc. I would spend the little extra money to have the shop spec it out, perform valve job if applicable, replace seals, etc. as well as injectors. Peace of mind - you've come this far, take advantage of it. Based on an earlier comment of "until I put a for sale sign on it" - if you're just trying to get it sold, do what you want.

"If you're just trying to get it sold" please note your VIN number so any MUD member can know this vehicle.

 

[bdruff]

"If you're just trying to get it sold" please note your VIN number so any MUD member can know this vehicle.

Yeah...and I've been honest from the start, here and in person. I'll list what I do replace. I just can't justify replacing everything that I would if I was planning on keeping it. Parts will all be toyota, except maybe the fuel filter. Thinking of getting that from napa.

The head is at the shop now being checked and resurfaced. I would love to do a valve job... but there is no way I'd recoup my cost.

 

[bdruff]

So the shop called and said the head was ready to be picked up. I got it home and looked at it and saw this on the top. It's an obvious crack but how bad is it?

Reading now about repairing/patching with FIPG. Engine/head replacement is not really an option. Could possibly take it back to the shop but concerned about why they didn't say anything.

 

[bdruff]

Going thru pictures...I can't find the crack in any before pictures. Not saying it wasnt there...but it is righton top and I don't see it in the before pictures. In all fairness, I can't see it in all of the after picture I posted either.

 

[bdruff]

Looks like the hg was leaking just above the oil filter.

 

[bdruff]

Saw another thread and the OP had the same crack in the exact same place.

Advice to him was FIPG...that the only real concern for the crack in this spot was oil leak or the crack getting worse.

I couldn't sleep last night. I planned on upgrading to a newer land cruiser but this one doesn't want to go.

I'm going to reach out to some folks today but I'm pretty bummed.

 

[Slowguy432]

Could that small crack be reapired at the machine shop ? Id think a quick magna flux job could fix that up cheap and quickly -

 

[bdruff]

Took it back to the machine shop...figured that was the best place to start.

They said they hadn't seen it. I asked about them testing it for cracks and they said they pressure tested it for the coolant and there were no cracks.

They don't think it's a big deal. They said oil will seep but that's it. They suggested grinding a small groove over the crack on the inside. They said after the head is torqued down, then apply JB weld in the groove and let it sit for 24 hours.

I left it there for them to grind. I've never done anything like that and didn't want to practice here.

When I put the valve cover on, I'll put a little FIPG over the top surface of the crack.

What a bummer...but it could have been worse.

 

[Chris Wilcox]

In my opinion you have nothing to lose trying FIPG on the inside. Back it up with a smear of FIPG or RTV on the outside and see what happens. It is nice and clean now and stuff should stick well to the casting.

 

[bdruff]

Here is the grinding job...I ordered everything today. Should be here tomorrow. I'll finish cleaning up the block tonight and get the head on tomorrow or Thursday.

I was advised against using FIPG on the inside. My plan was to torque it down, fill the groove with jb weld, and then let it sit till it cures.

I am undecided/unsure about the FIPG on the inside but I was going to fill the groove on the suface.

 

[bdruff]

So many people said that I should keep my mouth shut about the HG when I first put the truck up for sale. I posted a link to my craigslist ad, that has since been removed, that was maybe a little too honest.

I can't help it...and I don't think that I could keep my mouth shut if I "Fixed the crack in the head with JB weld".

So...if anyone has a head laying around, I'm in California. Checked around a little last night and the prices were high even for used.

Supper bummed.

 

[nodaksn3]

Remember that "Honesty is the best policy". In the final analysis all you have is your integrity. You're doing a good job.
I'm reading your posts; my 80 has 318,xxx miles on it and I'm wondering when it will need this too! It leaks a little around the valve guides. The HG was done about 8 years ago.
I ruined my 62 using Barrs and ended up having to buy a new head for it. Never use that stuff.

 

[orttauq]

The JB Weld solution is a good idea. Years ago we ripped the oil drain plug off the bottom of a Saab engine. These engines do not have an oil pan but an all-in-one sump and trans-axle so replacement was not really an option. Cleaned it up really well, removed metal back to nice clean edges, and JB Welded it all back together letting it fully cure between applications. It held, did not leak and we could even pull the drain plug years later to change the oil. Had the car for 6 more years...until it was driven into a tree Done right JB Weld will hold. Tell the new owners what you did and feel good that it will hold up.

 

[Heckraiser]

Refer potential buyers to the photos of the crack. Every cruiser leaks oil and that particular crack is on the non-crucial side of the head. Wouldn't concern me as a buyer as long as you're not advertising it as a pristine museum piece for 20 grand.

 

[bdruff]

I'm looking for a used head right now and nothing is coming up reasonable. I felt comfortable putting it all back together after the machine shop looked at it but I've had a couple mudders, with more experience than me, recommend replacing it.

Wife is very unhappy...The plan was to start putting everything back together tomorrow morning. I'm going to think about it... keep looking for another inexpensive, used head, and hope some others chime in that have repaired a similar crack.

If I do use this head, I'll disclose it and refer to this thread.

 

[Funner]

I'm looking for a used head right now and nothing is coming up reasonable. I felt comfortable putting it all back together after the machine shop looked at it but I've had a couple mudders, with more experience than me, recommend replacing it.

Wife is very unhappy...The plan was to start putting everything back together tomorrow morning. I'm going to think about it... keep looking for another inexpensive, used head, and hope some others chime in that have repaired a similar crack.

If I do use this head, I'll disclose it and refer to this thread.

Used head is not without it's own possible issues and additional costs of cleaning, planing, etc and could also have a hairline crack not known by the seller. I would do the best you can with the head you have. Be honest when you sell it, the oil leak is going to be very minor if it doesn't seal with FIPG. Take your losses and move on if you don't plan to keep it.

 

[Tools R Us]

... My plan was to torque it down, fill the groove with jb weld, and then let it sit till it cures.
...

That would be the option that I would go with, as long as the surface is clean, should work well.